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Rice
Pudding Bhat Payasa Recipe
by Kurma
Kurma
Vegetarian & Vegan Indian & International Recipes. Delicious
vegetarian dishes by Kurma fomrer chiief of Melbourne's Gopal's, Cookbook
Author, and TV Cooking Class Personality View
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The
World's Oldest Rice Pudding
By Kurma Dasa
There comes a time in every writer's life for an office cleanup. A couple
of weeks ago I took the plunge. Hoping to discover a few long-forgotten
bits and pieces in the process, I sorted through twenty-six years of
accumulated paperwork and files. I wasn't disappointed.
I knew I had many vegetarian recipes stored away, but the final count
of over 3000 was indeed a pleasant surprise. Inside one dusty box, I
found a collection of very old recipes that I had kept aside, perhaps
for some future cookbook. I dug up a recipe for a hundred-year-old apple
pie (actually the recipe was a hundred years old, not the pie), and
a medieval Swedish cream fudge.
But the recipe that made the two-day cleanup really worthwhile was a
2000 year-old recipe for rice pudding from an old Indian temple kitchen.
Yamuna Devi, a friend and celebrated cooking writer had discovered the
recipe on one of her numerous trips to the subcontinent, and had written
some notes to accompany the recipe.
Here's
an excerpt from what she had to say:
"Of all the world's exceptional kitchens, perhaps none are as grand
as the kitchen compound of the Jagannatha Temple in Puri, Orissa, that
basks on India's eastern seaboard adjoining the Bay of Bengal.
The present temple of Jagannatha was constructed by King Ananga Bhima.
Historians say this temple was constructed at least two thousand years
ago. Awesome and gigantic, the Jagannatha Temple kitchen reflects centuries,
if not millenia, of culinary tradition.
Without electricity or machines, a legion of skilled chefs work under
oil lamps over open wood fires. Every day since the temple was inaugurated
over twenty centuries ago, the temple chefs have prepared more than
one hundred different vegetarian dishes in enormous quantities to be
offered to the temple Deities, and then distributed as prasadam, sanctified
food. The kitchen runs so efficiently that given only one day's notice,
the chefs can prepare a full meal for ten thousand guests at a sitting.
The kitchen compound is located several feet above and to the left of
the temple's main gate, called the Simha-dvara, or Lion Gate, and covers
roughly one acre. The kitchen is divided into nine sections, two of
them a little more than 2,500 square feet each, the other seven slightly
smaller.
The kitchen houses an astounding 752 wood-burning clay stoves, called
chulas, each about three feet square and four feet high. To accomodate
various sizes of pots, small clay knobs are judiciously placed at intervals
on the stove's surface for support. A circle of five jug-shaped earthen
pots rest directly on the stove's surface, kept in place with the clay
knobs. Three more pots go in the open spaces above the pots to form
a second layer, and one more pot goes in the centre on top, forming
a nine-pot pyramid. In this way, all nine pots receive lickings of heat
and smoke from the wood fires below.
Some cooking pots, also made of unfired clay, are shallow and wide,
resembling Spanish Paella pans or French saute pans. As the food cooks
in the pots, their walls become very hot. The pots provide amazing heat
retention - food stored in them stays piping hot for up to four or five
hours - and tastes exceptionally delicious.
One thousand men are employed in the kitchen every day. Five hundred
executive chefs, called swaras, are the only ones actually allowed to
cook on the stoves. Three hundred kitchen assistants, called jogunias,
assist the swaras by lighting the fires, fetching water from temple
wells, washing and cleaning the new earthen cooking pots before use,
and finally filling the pots with ingredients. The other two hundred
assistants , called tunias, wash the cart-loads of locally grown vegetables,
such as the many varieties of leafy greens, tubers, squashes, melons,
green chilies, ginger and fresh coconuts. The tunias also cut the vegetables,
grate the fresh coconuts into powder, and stone-grind the herbs, chilies,
ginger, and dozens of spice blends. All members of the kitchen staff
begin training at age twelve. They serve for life, or until they become
too old to perform their duties.
The one hundred different dishes prepared daily fall into two categories,
called pakka and sukka. Pakka foods are those which are boiled, such
as dals, soups, stews, rice, kiccharis, and all vegetable dishes. Sukka,
or dry foods, include cookies, biscuits, sweetmeats, pastries, and confections.
As with the fruits and vegetables selected for use in the Jagannatha
kitchens, the standard for spices has also remained constant for two
thousand years. Only locally grown spices are used, and these include
mace, cumin, fennel, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, mustard
seed, and black cumin.
Although non-Hindus are strictly forbidden from entering the Jagannatha
Temple or it's kitchens, visitors to Jagannatha Puri's bustling markets
can purchase a huge variety of temple kitchen prasadam for a small price,
some still hot and in it's original clay cooking pots."
Not long after rediscovering the recipe, I cooked the rice pudding,
and I must say it was delicious. Here then is the original recipe for
bhat payasa, the rich rice pudding cooked daily at the Jagannatha Temple
kitchen. This recipe has not changed in two thousand years.
Rice
Pudding Bhat Payasa Recipe
• 2 tablespoons ghee or unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup long grained rice, washed and dried
• 1/2 bay leaf
• 2 litres milk
• 1/2 cup ground rock sugar, or raw sugar
• 1/4 cup currants
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom seeds
• one pin-head quantity of pure cooking camphor (optional)
• 1 tablespoon toasted nuts for garnish
Heat the ghee or butter in a heavy pot over medium heat, and toast the
rice for a minute.
Add the bay leaf and milk. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat, and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until reduced to half it's original volume.
Add the sweetener, currants, and cardamom, and simmer the mixture until
it reaches one fourth of it's original volume, and is thick and creamy.
Stir in the optional camphor, and cool to room temperature, or refrigerate
until chilled.
Serve garnished with the toasted nuts. Alternatively, for an untraditional
touch, top with a spoonful of pureed sweetened raspberies, strawberries,
or red currants. ,
Cooking
With Kurma - More Great Vegetarian Cooking by Kurma Dasa
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If you know of a vegetarian
recipes that you would like to shares with the yearly hundreds of thousands
of readers of this site, please e-mail us at: email
me at vrupdates@yahoo.com
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