Tansen (Palpa)

Area Code: 075
In the past Tansen was on the trade route between the plains and the hills. Tansen is between Pokhara (5 hr, 110km) and Sunauli/Bhairawa (2 hr, 55 km), just off the Siddhartha Highway, and is a pleasant place to stop on the way between the two places. It is the administrative center for the area. It is known for metalware and dhaka, the material made into the Nepali topis hats. Not many visitors come here. It is also known as Palpa and Tansing, the original Magar name.

There are great views of the Madi Valley from town. There are some interesting walks in the area. It is a good two hours walk to the Kali Gandaki River and the large, deserted Ranighat Palace. From the close by hill call Srinagar Danda, there are excellent views of the Himalaya Mountains.

Most of the people in Tansen are Newars who mainly migrated in the 19th century when trade opportunities opened up here. Most of the people in the surrounding area are Magars and there are also Chhetris and Bahuns.

History
Before Nepal was united, Tansen was the capital of the Palpa kingdom ruled by the Sen Dynasty. The history of Tansen dates back to the 16th century. Prithvi Narayan Shah, who united Nepal, mother was from the Sen Family. For years the Gorkha and Palpa kingdoms were in alliance and combined they took control of western Nepal. In 1806, Prithivipal Sen, the last king of Palpa, was asked to come to Kathmandu and he was beheaded. Palpa became parted of the Kathmandu kingdom and Tansen became the administrative city for the area. Members of the Shah and Rana family have ruled the region, often after being exiled from Kathmandu trying to overthrow the king of the time.

Orientation and Information
The town is built on a steep. Many of the main streets are too steep for vehicle traffic. In the old part of the city there are traditional Newari buildings along cobbled streets.

Either Nepal Bank or Rastriya Banijya Bank may be able to change US dollars travelers’ cheques, but may not be able to change anything else.
There is a place a little uphill of Shitalpati that does email.

Tansen Durbar
This former palace of the provincial governor was built in the Rana style and is now government office. It has an impressive but run-down eastern gate called Baggi Dhoka, or Mul Dhoka. Outside the gate is a public square called Sitalpati.

Amar Narayan Temple
This temple is a traditional three-tiered pagoda-style temple built in 1806. It has well carved doors and has some intricate woodwork. It has erotic figures on the roof struts. It is considered to be one of the most beautiful temples outside of Kathmandu Valley. The temple was built by Amar Singh Thapa, who annexed Tansen to become part of Nepal.

There are some tanks near the temple, and many bat in the years nearby.

Bhagwati Temple
This temple, near the Tansen Durbar was originally built in 1815 to commemorate the victory over the British at Butwal. It was renovated in 1035 and 1974 after earthquakes. In the area there are small temples dedicated by Ganesh, Saraswati and Siva.

Where to Stay
There are some undesirable, basic hotels near the bus station for around Rs 100.
Hotel The Bajra (20443), a little up the hill, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 100/150 and with bath and hot water for Rs 250/350.
Hotel Gautam Siddhartha (20280), up the hill, has basic, quiet, clean rooms for Rs 160.
Hotel Srinagar (20045; fax 20467), on the ridge above town 2km away, is a comfortable place that has rooms for $30/40. It is well located and has great views. It is best to call in advance to make sure that have a room available. It is used mainly by tour groups. It is a good way above the town, and you can call and have them pick you up.

Hotel the White Lake (20503, 20291), up the hill, has comfortable rooms for Rs 400/600. It has good views and is a good value.

Where to Eat
Nanglo West, a branch of a Kathmandu-based restaurant, has a pleasant indoor and outdoor seating area. It serves really good Nepali and Newar food, and decent Western food.
Doko Restaurant has Tibetan and Newari food.
Hotel Srinagar has a good restaurant.

Travel
There are many buses to Butwal (Rs 25) and to Sunauli/Bhairawa (Rs 44). There is one government Sajha Yatayat bus daily to Kathmandu (Rs 140). There is one bus to Pokhara (Rs 95) and others coming from Butwal. There is a bus to Kakarbhitta. To go to other place in the Terai, you change buses at Butwal.

You can also take one of the more comfortable and faster semi-tourist buses that go between Pokhara and Sonauli. These buses run along the Siddhartha Highway, so you have to get off at Bartun, which is the village three km from Tansen at the road that turns off to Tansen. From there you can either get a bus to Tansen or you can walk up the steep 1km short-cut that begins north of the intersection.

The highway running north–south has some great views, so you may want to ride on the roof. If you are coming here from Pokhara for the best views sit on the right side of the bus.

There are no rickshaws or taxis in Tansen. The better hotels can usually arrange a vehicle or a motorcycle hire. You can rent a bicycle at some guest houses.

Near Tansen

Srinagar Danda
Srinagar Danda is a 1600m high hill just north of Tansen, from where there are excellent views over the Kali Gandaki River of the Himalaya. You can see Kanjiroba in the west to Annapurna and to Langtang in the east.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides