At the mouth of the Ganges (Hoogly), where it meets the Bay of Bengal, there is a huge mangrove swamp which extends from the mouth of the Ganges to Bangladesh. Part of this area makes up Sunderbans Wildlife Sanctuary, taking up around 2600 sq km. It is under Project Tiger and there are said to be around 250 Royal Bengali tigers in the park, but they are rarely seen. Some of these tigers are known to be man-eaters and around 20 people a year are killed by tigers. They are able to swim between islands, sometimes swimming as far as 30km in one day. Other wildlife that can be seen in the park are spotted deer, wild boars, monkeys, Olive Ridley sea turtles, large crocodiles and many birds. The park is peaceful and it is an enjoyable relaxing place. The best time to visit the park is from December to March.

The Visitors’ Center is in Sajnekhali. A wire fence surrounds the camp here, but tigers have been known to get into the compound. Next to it is a turtle hatchery, a crocodile area, and a pond with sharks in it. There is an exhibit explaining the Mangrove forests. There is a heron sanctuary near Sajnekhali (best time to visit is July to September).

Most people visit the park by boat. To hire a boat is around Rs 600 for the entire day and Rs 400 for 4 hours. There are some watchtowers in Sajnekhali and in other areas in the park.

You have to get a permit to visit the park. If you are visiting Sajnekhali and the area controlled by Project Tiger, to get a permit you go to the Forest Department in the Writers Building, G Block, BBD Bagh, in Calcutta. If going to other areas you get the permit at the Divisional Forest Officer (245-1037), 24 Parganas, 35 Gopalnagar Rd, Calcutta.

West Bengal Tourism in Calcutta organizes a weekly boat tour from October to March. For a two or three day tour it is Rs 900/1800 which includes accommodation and meals. This is the most convenient way to get to the park, as otherwise it is tough to get to the reserve. The weakness of the tour is that large groups of people scare the animals away. To go on this tour you first have to get a permit.

It is a good idea to bring some bottled water and mosquito repellent.

Where to Stay
Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge (03463 52699; fax 52398) at Sajnekhali, has rooms with bath for Rs 300 and with A/C for Rs 550. Dorm beds Rs 200. You can book this place at the West Bengal Tourist Office on the east side of BBD Bagh in Calcutta.

Travel
To get here from Calcutta (from Babu Ghat) you take a bus to Sonakhali or Basanti (3 hr, 4 daily, one at 7 am). You can also take a train to Canning (1½ hr), then cross the river to Dok Ghat by boat. If you get to Canning during low tide you may have to wade across the water through deep mud.

You then take a bus or a shared rickshaw to Sonakhali. From Sonakhali you take a boat to Gosava (1¼ hr) and then a bike-rickshaw to Pakhirala (45 min). Then finally a boat to Sajnekhali. There is a direct boat from Gosava at 1 pm to Sajnekhali (2½ hr). A boat departs from Sajnekhali at 8 am to Gosava.

You can also rent a private boat to go from Sonakhali to Sajnekhali for Rs 400 and from Canning for Rs 650.

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