Area Code: 05619

This was the temporary capital of Emperor Akbar, of the Mughal Empire, between 1570 to 1586. It is a perfectly preserved deserted city. It is 40km west of Agra and is a popular and interesting place. Emperor Akbar was emperor from 1556 to 1605. Despite having three wives, he was unable to have a son. He came to the city of Sikri and met the Sufi mystic called Sheikh Salim Chishti. Salim told the Emperor that he would have at least three sons. A year later, the first son was born. In gratitude, Akbar named the son Salim (later known as Jahangir), after the saint and he also moved his capital here. Two more sons were later born.

Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal Empire for fifteen years. It was then moved back to Agra. It is believed that it was deserted because of lack of water, but the exact reason is unknown. What is left are a perfectly preserved old palace area, and an impressive mosque. It was not rediscovered until the 19th century.

Most people visit Fatehpur Sikri on a day trip from Agra. It can also be visited while traveling between Jaipur or Bharatpur and Agra.

Information
If you arrive by car, when you reach the entrance gate for Fatehpur Sikri each passenger in the car is charged a Rs 5 fee. If you arrive by bus or train, the palace area is about a 5-minute walk up the hill.

There is a bank near the bus stand, but as it may be difficult to change money there. It is best to exchange your money before you get here.
In many cases no one really knows what many of the buildings that are located in the palace are. So you can expect the guides to make up stories, which are often still interesting. As it is a little difficult to find your way around, especially if you are in a hurry, a guide can be useful. You should not pay more than Rs 100.

The tour buses stop only for an hour here.

Warning Be careful of the unofficial guides that will meet you in front of the mosque. These guides may give you a good tour of the mosque, which takes about 10 minutes, but they are not allowed to enter the Palace area, which is where most of the sites are located. You should make sure you get one of the government authorized guides, who are also much more professional and knowledgeable. The unofficial guides will also try to get you to go into a handicraft shop, where they get a big commission. The licensed guides mainly hang out near the ticket office near the palace area.

Jami Mosque
Jami Mosque is one of the biggest mosques in India. It is also known as Dargah Mosque. Buland Darwaza is the main gate to the Mosque. It is 40m (132 ft) high and is on a 12m (36 ft) high base, which makes it the highest gate in Asia. The gate was added after Akbar’s victories in Gujarat in 1576. When you go through the gate you have to take off your shoes. You may also go through the Badshahi Darwaza gate (Kings gate). This gate was used by Akbar.

In the middle of the courtyard (to the north) is the Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti, the Muslim Sufi saint who predicted the birth of Akbar’s sons. It was built in 1570. The tomb is made of red sandstone faced by marble and has very beautiful lattice screens. Women who do not have a son hang a thread on the marble latticework screens (jalis). A friend of mine did this and was soon pregnant—with a daughter. The latticework screens are some of the best that you will see in India. Qawwali singers sometimes sing. During Ramadan, qawwali singers come from all over the country. The tomb of the grandson of Salim Chishti, Islam Khan, is also within the courtyard.
Outside the Buland Darwaza is an old, deep well. Outside the mosque is the small Stone-cutters’ Mosque. The cave of Salim Chishti is said to have been located near here. Beside it is a hammam (Turkish bath) and the Hakim’s House (Doctor’s House).

Palace Area
The ticket office is northeast of the mosque (open daily 6 am to 5.30 pm; Rs 10.50, free on Friday, video camera Rs 25). There is a stone panel in front of each structure, which identifies what it is supposed to be.

After entering the enclosure, the first building on the left is known as the Jodh Bai’s Palace. Jodh Bai was the Hindu mother of Jahangir and the daughter of the Maharaja of Jaipur (Amber). This large palace is a blend of Muslim and Hindu architecture. It has a large courtyard, which surrounds a central garden. A tower, the Hawa Mahal (“Wind Palace”), is totally made of stone latticework.

Northeast of Jodh Bai’s Palace is Birbal’s Bhavan Palace, which is believed to have been built either for or by Raja Birbal, Akbar’s favorite courtier. He was killed, along with most of his army, near Peshawar in 1586. It also is believed to be where one of the queens of Akbar lived. Near this palace is the Lower Haramsara, which is believed to be either where the maids of the palace lived or it might have been a huge stable, which held over 200 elephants and horses.

Northeast of Jodh Bai’s Palace is the small Mariam’s Palace, which has ancient, but very faded, wall paintings. It is believed to have been used by Akbar’s Goan Christian wife, who was named Mariam.

The Panch Mahal is a five-storey structure supported by columns. The ground floor has 84 columns, none of them are the same, and the top floor has four. There is a good view from on top of the Panch Mahal, if it is open.

As you face the main enclosure, from the Panch Mahal, to your left is the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). This is where Emperor Akbar would meet with important visitors and do private business. It appears to be a two-storey building, but once you go inside you see that it is one-storey, with a stone column in the middle, and a throne on top. Thin stone bridges come out from the column meeting the corners of the room. It is believe that the emperor would have religious discussions here.

Next to the Diwan-i-Khas is the Treasury. The building is also known as Ankh Michauli, which means “hide and seek”, and it is believed that the emperor played here with the ladies of the court. It is also believed that it held the royal treasury. This is believed because of the carvings of sea monsters, who are said to protect the treasures of the ocean.

At the northeastern end of the courtyard is the Diwan-i-Am. This is the public audience hall, where the Emperor would deal with the public. The emperor’s throne was located between two sandstone slates. Next to the Diwan-i-Am is the Pachisi Courtyard. It is believed that Akbar would play the game of pachisi using live girls as pieces.

In the southeast corner of the courtyard is the well-carved Turkish Rumi Sultana Palace. Next to it is what might be a banquet hall. At the south end of the courtyard is the Diwan Khana-i-Khas, where Akbar is believed to have lived and slept.

To the northeast of the palace enclosure is the Royal Mint. A little further northeast is the Naubat

Khana (Drum House), where the entrance of the Emperor was signaled by the playing of musicians.

Northwest of the palace enclosure is the Karawan Serai or Caravanserai, which has a large courtyard surrounded by rooms. Past this building is the Hiran Minar (Deer Minaret). This is a 21m high tower, which has elephant tusks protruding from it. The flat area of land near the tower used to be a lake.

Where to Stay
Archaeological Survey Rest House is a very cheap place to stay. Rooms are just Rs 30. You have to book it in advance at the Archaeological Survey of India (0562 363-506), 22 The Mall, Agra.
Shree Tourist Guest House (2276), Dargah Gali, near the bus stand, is a basic place with six clean rooms starting at Rs 125/150 and Rs 175 with air-cooling.
Maurya Rest House (2348), Buland Darwaza, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 150/175 and with bath for Rs 255. It is well-managed by a nice family. They serve meals here. It is the best budget place in town.
The UP government-run Gulistan Tourist Complex (2490), Agra Rd, is a comfortable mid-range place with rooms for Rs 500/600 and Rs 850/950 for an A/C room. There is a Rs 100 discount from April to Sept. It is built around a courtyard and it has a restaurant. It is a pleasant place in a peaceful location.
The new Govardhan Tourist Complex (2222) has air-cooled rooms with bath and bucket hot water for Rs 350. Dorm beds are Rs 120.
Kallu Hotel, near the Buland Darwaza gate, serves thalis for Rs 40.

Travel
It is easy to make a day trip to here from Agra. You can get a bus from Agra’s Idgah bus station to here, which takes about an hour (every 30-min, from 6 am to 7 pm, Rs 15). There are also buses to Bharatpur (every half-hour, 17km, 1 hr), Mathura, and a few buses to Jaipur. An auto-rickshaw to Bharatpur takes a half-hour (Rs 50). You could spend the day in Fatehpur Sikri and then head to Bharatpur. If you have bags you can leave them at the bus station restaurant. Three or four trains a day come here from the Agra Fort railway station (1 hr) (5.30 am, 11 am and 4 pm). Tour buses stop for only an hour, which is not enough time to see the place at a leisurely pace.

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