Pop: 17,000   Area Code: 08177

Belur was the capital of the Hoysalas during the 11th and 12th centuries, before the capital was moved to Halebid. The fifth king of the Hoysalas dynasty, Bittadeva, is said to have changed his name to Vishnuvardhana (1108-1042) when he was converted from Jainism to Vaishnavism under the influence of Ramanujacharya. Most of the temples in Belur and Halebid were built during his reign.

The reason to come to this town is to see the impressive Chenna Keshava Temple, which has some of the most intricate and beautiful carvings in India. Beside this temple, there are two other temples to see, the Viranarayana Temple and the Chenniga Raya Temple.

Practicalities
You can change money at the State Bank of Mysore, Temple Rd, between the bus stand and the temple. The Post Office is on Main Rd, 300m from the bus stand.

Chenna Keshava Temple
This photogenic temple is an excellent example of Hoysala architecture. Construction of this impressive temple was begun in 1116 AD. It took 103 years to complete. Built of gray-green chlorite, the temple is covered with intricate sculptures, including scenes from the Ramayana and Maha-bharata. It is named after the beautiful (chenna) long-haired (keshava) form of Lord Krishna. The 2m (6 ft) Deity rests on a 1m stand. The two upper hands hold a disc and a conch, the two lower ones a lotus and a club.

To the left of the main shrine is a shrine dedicated to Kappe Chenniga Raya. There are two altars in the temple.The shrine facing east houses Kappe Chenniga Raya, and the one facing north houses Venugopala. There is another shrine dedicated to Somanayaki with a tower (vimana) over it. To the west of the main temple is a shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu called Vira-narayana. Behind the main temple is a temple dedicated to the Goddess Lakshmi, the consort of Lord Chenna Keshava.

The temple walls are 132m (443 ft) by 120m (396 ft). The temple itself is 53m (178 ft) by 47m (156 ft). There is a five-storey, 14th century gopuram over the main entrance. On either side of the main door are 2m (6 ft) sculptures of Jaya and Vijaya. A tall stone pillar in the temple courtyard is balanced only by its center of gravity. There are 645 elephants carved at the bottom of the outside walls of the temple. No two elephants are the same.

Inside the temple hall, to the left of the main entrance, is an intricately carved pillar with many small carvings of Lord Narasimha. This pillar used to rotate. There is one panel left blank on the pillar. It is said that the carver wanted to challenge anyone to carve a more beautiful image of Lord Narasimha than the ones already on the pillar.
There are ten perforated screens on either side of the eastern entrance of the assembly hall. The screens to the right include the story of Vamana (Trivikrama) and Bali, the killing of Hiranyakasipu by Narasimha, and the killing of Kamsa by Krishna. The panels on the left side depict the churning of the ocean by the demigods and demons, and Krishna’s pastimes (fighting with the wrestler Canura, killing the elephant Kuvalayapida, and the slaying of Kamsa). Other scenes depicted are from the Mahabharata and Ramayana.

There is an inscription recording the date of erection of this temple in commemoration of Vishnuvardhana’s victory over the Chola viceroy of Talkad. It is said that about this time, Vishnu­vardhana was converted from Jainism to Vaishnavism by Ramanujacharya.

This temple is still used for worship, but non-Hindus are permitted to enter. The ASI guides give a good tour of the temple for Rs 50. You can have a spotlight turned on for Rs 5 to see the interior sculptures more clearly.

Where to Stay
The KSTDC Hotel Mayura Velapuri (22209), a several-minute walk from the bus stand, has basic, clean rooms for Rs 200/250. It is about 300m from the temple. 24-hour checkout. It is the best place in town.
Vishnu Krupa Lodging (22263), Main Rd, has rooms with large windows for Rs 100/150. The deluxe rooms for Rs 275 are much better. You can get hot water in buckets at 6 am.
New Gayatri Hotel (22255), Main Rd, has basic rooms for Rs 75.
The friendly Swagath Tourist Home (22159), Temple Rd, is a basic place with rooms starting at Rs 60/80. Rooms have a balcony overlooking a small courtyard.
The Hotel Annapoorna (22423), Temple Rd, is a basic place (no pillow covers) that has rooms with hot water for Rs 150. 24-hour checkout.
Shri Raghavendra Tourist Home (22372), to the right of the temple, is very basic, with rooms for Rs 75/100 with bath. Rooms have mats on the floor; attached baths have squat toilets. You can get a bucket of hot water at 6 am. 24-hour checkout.

Where to Eat
The restaurants in Belur serve basic vegetarian meals and South Indian food. The restaurant at the Hotel Mayura Velapuri besides serving a vegetarian thali also serves Continental dishes.
Hotel Shankar, near the Hotel Annapoorna, has good, inexpensive thalis and good service.

Travel
Belur is 222km west of Bangalore, 16km from Halebid, and 38km from Hassan. It takes about 1½ hours to get to Belur by bus from Hassan. There are frequent buses to Halebid (35 min), Hassan (1½ hr), Bangalore (4 hr), Mysore (3 hr), and Arsikere (1½ hr).

From Mysore, the KSTDC Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelagola tour runs daily in the season (April to June and September to November), and three times a week the rest of the year. This is a good way to see these places, as they are difficult to reach by public transportation. There are also regular tours from Bangalore.

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