Goa

Population: 1.3 million
Capital: Panaji
Area: 3659 sq km
Main Languages: Kanaki, Marathi, English and Portuguese
Literacy Rate: 78%
Best Time to Visit: October to March

Goa has almost 100km of unbroken beaches lined with palm trees. Its relaxed atmosphere makes it one of the most popular places to visit during the winter months. The sea is fairly mild and it is pleasant for swimming. Goa has a wide range of visitors: backpackers, college students from around the world, and resort goers.

Goa was a Portuguese colony from 1510 until 1961. For years, Goa was isolated from the rest of India; and you can feel a difference in atmosphere immediately upon arrival. Roman Catholicism is a major religion here.

Over the years, the traveler’s scene has spread out both north or south from the capital, going to either the extreme north or the southern border of Goa. The main music that you hear is techno music and there are some large techno parties. Anjuna, Vagator, and Chapora are the main bases for the techno music party scene.

Old Goa, 10km from Panaji, has a good number of old Catholic churches and is the most popular non-beach tourist site. The Wednesday flea market at Anjuna is attended by thousands of people and is an interesting event, even if you do not plan to purchase anything. At Ponda, 23km from the coast, there are several temples dating from the 18th century. Margao has old churches and Portuguese mansions. Cotigoa in the far south is a wildlife preserve.

Goa has one of the highest literacy rates in India. The property law in Goa states that married women are entitled to fifty percent of the family estate, an unusual law for India. Goa has the third highest GNP in India. The economy is based mainly on tourism, iron-ore mining, farming, and fishing.

History
It is said that Goa was created when Parasuram, the sixth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, fired an arrow from the Western Ghats into the Arabian Sea. From the place where the arrow landed, he ordered the water to recede.

Goa was part of the Mauryan Empire back in the 3rd century BC. It was ruled by the Chalukyans of Badami from 580 to 750 AD. It was then controlled by the kingdom of Kadamba, then the Chalukyans in the 11th to 13th centuries. In 1312 the Muslim Bahmanis conquered it. Around 1370,

Harihara I of the Vijayanagar kingdom captured Goa and controlled it for about one hundred years. At this time, Goa became an important port for the kingdom based in Hampi, Karnataka. Arabian horses were landed here to be distributed to the powerful Vijayanagar army. The Muslims Bahmanis Sultans in Gulbarga captured Goa in 1469, and when their dynasty disintegrated, Yusuf, the founder of the Adil Shah dynasty of Bijapur, took control. He made Old Goa (then known as Ela) his second capital. The present Secretariat building in Panaji was once the Shah’s palace.

The Portuguese, under Afonso de Albuquerque, captured the city of Panaji on November 25, 1510, on St Catherine’s day. The Portuguese then ruled Goa for the next 450 years. Albuquerque died in Goa in 1515, and his body was sent back to Portugal.

Old Goa became the capital of the area, and its population grew to over 200,000. For a while, the Portuguese controlled the spice trade and many made their fortunes from it. A plague in 1635 killed over 100,000 people.

At first, the Portuguese did not interfere with the locals, although they banned the sati rite (burning of widows). They employed Hindus and engaged them in their armies, and they maintained good trade relations with the Hindu empire of Hampi. When different missionaries arrived in Goa, the question of religious tolerance began.

In 1580 Portugal became part of Spain. Eventually competition from the British, Dutch, and French caused a decline in Portuguese influence in the area. In 1640, Portugal regained her independence from Spain. The British East India Company signed the Convention of Goa in 1642, giving them the right to trade with the colony.

In 1680 the Maratha under Sambhaji, Shivaji’s son, occupied part of Goa. The Maratha forces were then forced to withdraw from Goa to fight with the Mughal army in Maharashtra. In 1739, the Marathas again came close to conquering Goa.

Goa reached its present size in 1788 after the British granted additional land when the Portuguese assisted the British in defeating Haider Ali of Srirangapatnam. These new territories, known as the New Conquests, included areas with a predominantly Hindu population.

A strong attempt was made to convert the residents of Goa to Christianity. After St Francis Xavier founded the Jesuit mission in 1542, religious persecution found new ground and the Catholics attempted forced conversions. By 1560, the Inquisition had come to Goa, and Catholicism was the only legal religion. Syrian Christians were banned in Goa, and Hindu temples were destroyed. The Jesuits were eventually expelled in 1749 by the Portuguese government because of the powerful political influence they held. At this time, their properties were confiscated by the state, although worship in their churches was allowed to continue. At this time native Goans were permitted to become priests. In the 18th century, Hindus regained the right to worship in public.

The Indian government blockaded Goa after several people were killed in a liberation march in 1955. The railway was cut off and trade between Goa and India was stopped. Around this time, Dabolim airport was built. In 1961, Prime Minister Nehru ordered the Indian army to take control of Goa. Meeting only token resistance, they took Goa in two days, along with the territories of Diu and Daman. Goa then became a Union Territory.

The residents of Goa voted by a large majority to not become part of the neighboring state of Maharashtra in the 1980s. In 1987, Goa became the twenty-fifth state of the Indian Union. Diu and Daman are still Union Territories and are governed by the governor of Goa.

Orientation
Goa is divided into three basic areas: the cities of Panaji and Old Goa are roughly in the middle; there is a beach area stretching north of Panaji; and there are beaches south of Panaji. The further you travel in either direction from Panaji, the more secluded the beaches become. Some beaches are strictly five-star resorts, while other beaches are visited by Western travelers planning a long stay on a low budget.

Beaches
There are many different beaches along the coast, and each of them has its own attraction for tourist. Many beaches are frequented by charter tour groups, which fly directly into Goa from Europe. This is often the only place in India that such tours visit. For a lengthy stay, it is cheaper to rent a house, as the Goa hotels can be expensive, especially during the Christmas season. If you wish to rent a house, it is best to arrive in Goa in early November when there is still a good selection. During the Christmas holidays, it will be difficult to find a good house at a reasonable price.
Some beaches—Agauda, Bogmala, Varca and Cavelossim—cater to package tours and rich tourists.

Calangute and Baga in the north, and Colva and to a lesser extent Benaulim in the south, are developed areas and have good tourist facilities, including hotels, restaurants, and shopping areas. In Vagator and Anjuna there are hip travelers who plan to stay for a long period of time. Both places have decent facilities and a good beach, but a place to stay can be hard to find.

Further north is Arambol (also called Harmal), which is much less touristed and has only basic accommodations. Visitors interested in spending time at the beach will find the area pleasant, but should not expect to find the same party atmosphere as at the beaches mentioned above. South of Colva is Betul, and further south again is Palolem. Here too the accommodations are basic. Palolem is a quiet place, removed from the package tourist crowds. Many people head south to Gokarna in Karnataka, and go to the secluded OM or Kudli beaches.

Visitors arriving during the height of the season (around Christmas) and heading north toward Anjuna, Vagator, or Arambol, may find it a good idea to first stay in Baga or Calangute, then make day trips until they find a place to stay. It can be difficult during the season to find accommodations.

North of Panaji
Arambol – a hip beach, basic accommodations, secluded, relaxed, beautiful.
Big Vagator – Mainly visited by Indians; accommodations may be tight.
Little Vagator – a hip beach where visitors wear minimum clothing (if any), small but beautiful beach, accommodations may be tight. Good techno party scene.
Anjuna – a hip beach, long and spread out, secluded, busy on flea market day, good accommodations. Good techno party scene.
Baga – a “young” beach crowded with college students, some travelers, Western and Indian family crowd. The beach is long, developed, connected to Calangute, and has good facilities.
Calangute – again, a young crowd of college students, some travelers, and Western and Indian families. Long, developed, connected to Baga, reminds me of a beach in the West, good facilities, good shopping.
Candolim and Fort Aguada – both resorts, private beaches, more expensive.

South of Panaji
Bogmalo – richer package tourist crowd.
Colva – Indian and Western families, package tourists, college student, some travelers, developed, fairly secluded, good facilities.
Benaulim – near Colva, but more secluded, fairly developed, good facilities.
Varca – richer package tourist crowd, secluded, good beach.
Palolem – popular with travelers, relaxed, secluded, with decent facilities.

When to Visit
The best time to visit Goa is from late September to March, when there is almost no rain and it is a bit cooler. Mid-December until the end of January is ideal, and is the most popular time in Goa. Rarely does the temperature go over 32°C (90°F) during this time. It can be unbearably hot from April to the beginning of July. The monsoon rains come in July, August, and early September, and can be very heavy. The sea is rough and the water muddy during these months.

Travel To and From Goa
Air  Dabolim Airport (512-788, 513-863, 510-917), the only airport in Goa, is near Vasco da Gama, 29km south of Panaji. There are international flights to and from the UK and Germany, and flights to many places in India—Bangalore (1hr, 3 weekly, $95), Chennai (5 weekly, $125), Delhi (1 daily, $210), Kochi (daily, $110), Mumbai (1 hr, 5 daily, $85), Pune (4 weekly, $90), and Tiruchirapalli (2 weekly, $120).

Air India (224-067; fax: same), Damania (228-711/12; fax 228-714), Indian Airlines (224-067; fax 224-067; Airport: 513-863), Jet Airways (522-402; Airport: 84130); Sahara (548-676; fax 547-808; Airport: 840-128).

During the Christmas season flights may have to be reserved months in advance. To get a flight to Delhi or Mumbai from Goa during January, you will usually have to arrange it several days in advance.

Rail The Konkan Railway goes along the coast between Mumbai and Mangalore, stopping in Goa at Margao. It may stop at more places in the future, so you may want to check on this. The direct train from Mumbai to Goa takes 12 hours and to Mangalore six hours. Tickets for the Konkan Railway are sold at the railway stations in Margao and Vasco da Gama, and at the bus station in Panaji.

At the present time South Central Railway is converting their lines from metre to broad gauge, so rail service are disrupted. When this service is completed there will be direct trains between Vasco da Gama and Delhi (42 hr) and Bangalore (15 hr). There is a direct train from Mathura to Madgaon, in south-central Goa.

There is a South Central Railway reservation counter (open daily from 10 am to 1 pm, and from 2:30 to 5 pm) at the Panaji bus stand, upstairs in the main building. The tourist quota is limited. The Vasco da Gama station has limited tourist quota tickets available and sells Indrail passes. A local travel agency can reserve a train ticket if given advance notice.

Boat  The catamaran boat that used to go between Mumbai to Panaji does not operate any more. Most likely because of the new train service between Mumbai and Goa. It may operate in the future, but it seems doubtful.

Bus  You can book Kadamba bus tickets in advance at Panaji and Mapusa bus stands (9 to 11 am and 2 to 5 pm). A night bus from Mumbai to Goa takes fifteen to eighteen hours. It is an uncomfortable 500km trip on rough roads. The trip going south from Goa is easier.

Private bus companies operates buses to Mumbai, Pune, Hampi, Bangalore and many other places. You can book luxury and sleeper buses to and from Goa from travel agencies.

Taxi The 500km trip from Mumbai to Goa takes about 14 hr and costs between Rs 4500 to Rs 7000.

Getting Around Goa
The state-run Kadamba bus company is the main bus company in Goa, but there are many private companies. The main long distance bus stations are in Panaji, Mapusa, and Margao. From Panaji or Vasco da Gama, if you are heading north to the beaches of Anjuna, Vagator, or Arambol, you will usually have to catch a bus to Mapusa and from there, another bus to your destination. There are frequent local buses between many of the coastal towns. Many of the local buses are uncomfortable being extremely crowded and slow.

Motorcycle taxis are the normal way to get around in Goa. Licensed operators ride black bikes with a yellow front mudguard. You should set the fare in advance. Rates are usually Rs 5 per km.

A taxi can be rented for a day for Rs 600-700 (extra is you exceed 80km), or a half-day for Rs 300-350 (4 hr). 

Renting a Motorcycle or Moped
Many people rent motorcycles and mopeds in Goa. Rental rates vary depending on the season. Often a large deposit is required, or you will be asked to leave your passport. If you plan to rent a motorcycle during the Christmas-New Year week and you arrive a few weeks before, ask for a monthly rate and pay for it in advance. If you don’t, there is a good change the owner will not want to rent it to you at the same rate, but will double or triple the normal rate.

When renting a scooter it pays to be picky, and ask for the new looking one. They seem to want to give you their worst one first. There is a big difference between a good one and bad one. If you find that the brakes are too loose, it only takes a few seconds to adjust them.

A 50cc moped (Rs 75-100 per day, Rs 800 for a week, Rs 1700 for a month) is good for going to the beach and back and making other local trips, but is not recommended for longer trips. Mopeds are fairly easy to ride for beginners. The Honda Kinetic 100cc (Rs 100-150 per day, Rs 2200 for a month) has automatic gears and is easy to ride. The Yamaha RD 100cc (Rs 150-200 per day) has manual gears and is a good bike. The Enfield Bullet 350cc (Rs 250 per day, Rs 3000 for a month) is more powerful than the others and therefore much harder to ride without experience. The Indian-made Rajdoots should be avoided.
Classic Bike Adventure (226-124; fax 226-124), Villa Theresa, Candolim, rents well-maintained, fully insured Enfields for Rs 2500 to Rs 3500 a week, depending on the season. You can purchase a new motorcycle from Auto Guides on Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, near the Hotel Samrat in Panaji. A new Enfield costs Rs 55,000.

You should carry all the paperwork with you, such as your license, registration, and insurance papers. Officially, most people need an international driver’s license to ride any bike more powerful than a 25cc moped. UK residents do not require an international license, but USA residents need one. Rental companies do not usually enforce this rule. You may be stopped by the police and asked to show your license, and if you do not possess one, you will be fined (baksheesh). The amount of the fine is negotiable, but it is officially set at around Rs 900. Not having an international license is not really a crime, so travelers should not be too concerned if they are stopped no matter how much the police try to convince them otherwise. Travelers are more likely to be stopped in the larger towns such as Panaji, Mapusa, Margao, or at Anjuna on a flea market day.

Insurance is required, so ask to see proof that a rental vehicle is insured. If you get into an accident, you will be expected to pay for the repairs of the rented bike.

An average of one person per day dies on Goa’s roads. Many of the fatalities are tourists on two-wheeled vehicles. During my stay in Goa I saw many people with injuries caused by motorcycle accidents. Be especially careful at night. It is a good idea not to drive if you are intoxicated. On the Indian roads, might is right, and motorcycles are the smallest vehicles on the road.

It is a good idea to ride around after getting your bike to familiarize yourself with the local roads. In this way you will have an idea of the location of bumps on the road, for when you are driving at night or are in a hurry.

It is also a good idea to buy a state map. One can be purchased at The GTDC Tourist Offices.

Ferries
Old Goa to Piedade—Leaves every half-hour.
Dona Paula to Mormugao—Runs only between September and May, this is a nice way to get from Panaji to Vasco da Gama. It makes infrequent crossings and stops running at 5 pm. You may have to wait a couple of hours. It is a passenger ferry only, and buses wait on each side for the boat to cross. Crossing takes forty-five minutes.
Agassaim to Cortalim—This ferry crossing is on the road between Panaji and Margao. There is a bridge here, but bus passengers have to take a ferry across because the bridge is weak and heavy vehicles are not allowed over it.

Siolim to Chopdem—You take this ferry to get to Arambol and places north. Crosses every half-hour and takes ten minutes. Tickets cost Rs 1 for passengers and Rs 2 for a motorcycle.
Querim to Terekhol—Goes to Terekhol in the far north of Goa. Crossing about every half-hour.

Nudism
Nudism is prohibited in Goa. The stricture against nudism includes a prohibition against women bathing topless. Women bathe topless on the beaches at Vagator and some of the more secluded areas of Anjuna and Arambol, but at the more touristy beaches, and at the beaches frequented by families, the ban against nudism is strictly enforced and the police patrol the beaches.
India is a puritan country, and Indian women would not dream of wearing even a bathing suit. Most Indian women bathe fully covered by their saris.

Trouble and Theft
Although most people visiting Goa do not have a problem with thieves, theft is becoming more and more common in Goa. Items left unattended on the beach may be stolen. Do not leave valuables in your room. If you have a ground floor room, be sure the windows are locked when you go out, as thieves often use a stick to fish things out through an unlocked window. Robberies also occur at night while travelers are sleeping, so do not place valuables near the windows. Thieves sometime lift the tiles off the local houses to break into them.

Thieves strike especially on party nights.
Beware also of fellow travelers, especially those who have lived in India for awhile or those who have a drug addiction. I have heard of several cases of people having their entire houses emptied by supposed friends who were staying with them. According to a friend who spent several years in Goa, about eighty percent of the people staying for a length of time will be robbed. This percentage may be slightly exaggerated, but I wouldn’t underestimate the possibility of it happening to you. Take precautions. The more secluded the house, the more likely you will be robbed. If possible, rent a house close to the family who owns it.

It is possible to rent a deposit box in banks in which to lock your valuables. Some hotels have safe deposit boxes in the family house of the people who own the hotel. If you have travelers cheques (a good idea in a place like Goa), it is a good idea to leave them and your passport with the family from whom you are renting. Because they are native to Goa, and because they rarely leave their houses unattended, they are less likely to be robbed than a Western traveler.

Women and Violent Crime
Violent crime is not typical of Goa, but there are several cases where women have been attacked while alone on the beach. Women alone should be on their guard in secluded areas, especially at twilight or at night. Women should also be careful of the motorbike taxi drivers at night, especially if the driver has been drinking. Do not engage in small talk with them. There are known cases of such drivers attempting to rape Western women.
Women should be especially careful of drunk Indian men at night. The local Goans are usually restrained, but men from outside the state, who are unaccustomed to the Westerner’s mode of half-nudity, can lose control.

WARNING!!! During beach parties, foreign women should not wander off by themselves but remain with other foreigners (preferably men) or in well-lit areas. Drunk Indian men can be extremely aggressive (dangerous) with women, so it is best to stay away from them in dark places. This is a serious warning!

Drugs
Drugs (even pot and hash) are illegal in Goa and possession of anything over 5 grams carries a heavy fine and up to ten years in jail. Usually offenders are not put in jail, but the police ask for a fine to let them go free. They may take every rupee (and dollar) you have. If you have a problem with the police, be very polite and request to pay the fine. Often they will ask you for money and you can negotiate the amount. Whatever price is set, you should pay it, because time in an Indian jail is extremely unpleasant and it is certain that you will be convicted, whether you did anything on not.

The general policy seems to be that as long as you are not a dealer, no one will bother you. You should not party around families.

WARNING  Be careful of having the wax cleaned out of your ears. I have asked several doctors about this practice, and all of them have agreed that it is extremely dangerous. I heard of one case in which a person was shown an apparently huge piece of wax that was taken out of his ear. After a few days, he went to a doctor because he realized he had lost his hearing in that ear.

Accommodation
There are three seasons in Goa: high, middle, and low. The high season is from mid-December to the middle of January. During this time, hotel prices can double or triple, and it can be difficult to find a room at any price in some places. Many people renting houses come to Goa in November to get a good place.

The rates given in this section are usually the high season rates. At other times of the year, prices will often be twenty-five to fifty percent cheaper at middle and higher class hotels. You can request a discount if you are staying for a period of time.

Konkani
The local language is Konkani. Some useful words are:
Yes - Oi
No - Nam
Please - Upkar Kor
Excellent - Kelem
OK - Borem
Welcome - Eukar
Slowly - Soukas
Faster - Vegin
Straight - Fuddem
Stop - Tamb
Go away - Voss
Enough - Puro
Excuse me - Upkar korsi
Thank you - Dev Borem Karum
How much? - Kitle Podtai?
How far? - Kitle poiss?
Too expensive - Chod marog

Miramar and Dona Paula
Miramar, 3km west of Panaji, is the closest beach to Panaji. It is not such a nice beach. The water is polluted and there can be an undertow. There are several places to stay here, including the Youth Hostel, Yatri Niwas, and Solmar.

Dona Paula, 7km west of Panaji past Miramar, is a small town with several resort hotels. The Dona Paula Beach Resort (47995) has a small private beach and rooms with a bath for Rs 700. The five-star Cidade de Goa (221-301 or 221-133; fax 223-303), near Vaniguinim Beach, has rooms for $100. It has a pool, five restaurants, and water sports. It is well-designed and the beach is pleasant and secluded.

Frequent buses leave Panaji’s Kadamba bus station to Miramar and Dona Paula.

Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary
Bondla, in the foothills of the Western Ghats, has sambars and wild boars. It is just 8 sq km, and is 52km from Panaji and 38km from Margao.
It has a fenced Deer Park (closed Thurs), a zoo, and a botanical and rose garden.

Book accommodation in advance at the office of the Department of Forestry, next to the Hotel Fidalgo, opposite the Air India office, in Panaji. Accommodation is in chalets. They are often booked.

The park is open daily except Thursdays. To get here, take a bus to Ponda and from there, hire a taxi to the park (Rs 200). You can also take the Molen bus to Tiskar and then get a motorcycle taxi to the park (Rs 75). There is a minibus that goes around the park. The deer park is open at around 4 pm for about an hour.

Arvalem
Arvalem, 45km east of Panaji and 8km north of Bondla Sanctuary, contains small Buddhist caves and waterfalls. The caves are said to date from the 3rd to 6th centuries AD. They have been converted to Siva temples and the altars now contain Siva-lingas. The falls here are impressive during the monsoon. Steps lead down to the foot of the falls.

Dudhsagar Waterfalls and Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary
These impressive waterfalls are some of the highest in India, 600m from top to bottom. At this place, the Mandovi River makes a near vertical drop into a green pool. The local name meaning “sea of milk” is derived from the cloud of white foam that comes up. There is beautiful scenery in the area.

The Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary, which contains the falls, has gaurs, leopards, elephants, deer, and many species of birds.
Practicalities

The best time to come is just after the monsoon from October to December, but the waterfalls flow fairly well until April. There is a cold pool at the base of the waterfalls, which is good for swimming.

You get here by taking a train from Vasco da Gama (2 hr, 45 min) or Margao (2 hr, 15 min). The Vasco Exp #7830 departing Vasco da Gama at 7:15 am is a good train to catch. You can also catch a train from Colem (not Calem, the previous station). You can get a jeep (Rs 1800) from Molem. From where the jeeps stop it is a difficult walk over boulders to get to the falls.
Goa Tourism Forest Resort (0832 600-238) has twenty-three basic rooms and dorm beds in the Mahaveer Sanctuary, near Molem.

Goa Tourism (GTDC) operates a tour to the falls. You can get a ticket at their offices or hotels

North Goa
Heading north from Panaji along the coast, there is almost a steady string of beaches. To get to the extreme north you have to pass three rivers. Two of them, Chapora and Arondem, have to be crossed by ferry. Starting from the Aguada Peninsula, the white-sand beach goes for 7km ending at Calangute and Baga, the most developed beaches in Goa. These beaches were famous for the Goa hippies. Now you will mainly see young travelers, families, package tourist, day-trippers, Indian families, and vendors selling their wares. The “travelers” scene has moved north to Anjuna, Vagator, and Chapora.

Candolim, Aguada Fort and Sinquerim
Area Code 0832

Candolim, at the far southern end of Calangute beach, is mainly geared for package holidays. It is 13km north of Panaji and 45km from the airport. You can rent speedboats and jet skis here.
North of the fort there are two small sandy coves, known as Sinquerim Beach. This was one of the first places in Goa to be geared for upmarket tourism. The Taj Group’s Fort Aguada Resorts, one of the most expensive hotels in India, is located here.

Aguada Fort
Aguada Fort, built in 1612, is the best preserved Portuguese fort in Goa. It was the strongest Portuguese fort and has several natural springs. There are 79 guns placed around the fort to give firepower from any direction. The Church of St Lawrence (1630) is in the center. There is a 13m high lighthouse, from the top of which there is a good view. Open 4 to 5:30 pm.

Where to Stay
Candolim is geared for charter tours, so accommodation can be hard to find and is expensive during the high-season.
Xavier Beach Resort, Fort Aguada Rd, opposite the State Bank of India, in a peaceful location, has well-appointed rooms for Rs 1100. It has large verandahs and good views from the sea-facing windows.
Costa Nicola (276-343; fax 277-343), Vaddi, is a well-maintained Portuguese style villa with rooms for Rs 1200. It has a nice garden and all rooms have a verandah. Some rooms have kitchens. Recommended.
The five-star Fort Aguada Beach Resort, Sinquerim beach, consists of three hotels owned by the Taj group. It has pools, water sports, massages, free buses from the airport and Panaji, and other facilities.
Aguada Hermitage (276-201; fax 276-044) has one and two-room villas with their own garden and scenic northern view for $500 ($250 in low season).
Rooms at the luxury Fort Aguada Beach Resort (276-201; fax 276-044), within the outer walls of the fort, are $250.
On the beach is the Taj Holiday Village (276-201; fax 276-045) with rooms for $230. It has a beautiful, well-designed garden with palm trees.

Where to Eat
Nexvila, Dando, is one oxe "Candolim" f the better places.
Melza, near the Taj, Fort Aguada Rd, has good Chinese food.
Bom Successo, Fort Aguada Rd, has classical Indian dance every Thursday and occasional live jazz.
Sea Shell, Fort Aguada Rd, has besides other things on the menu,xe "Sinquerim" good vegetarian preparations.
Coconut Inn is popular in the evening.
The partly Swiss-run 21 Coconuts is one of the best places on the beach. It is high-priced but worth it. Main preps are Rs 125; salad bar Rs 75.
Banyan Tree, in the Taj Holiday Village, has good Chinese and Thai food. Main preps are Rs 150 to Rs 250.

Travel
Buses to and from Panaji (14km) stop about every twenty minutes at the bus stand, opposite the Casa Sea Shell, in the middle of Candolim. A taxi to the airport costs Rs 450.

Terekhol
Terekhol is north of Arambol and is the northernmost point in Goa. You get here by getting the ferry (every 30 min, 5 min trip) at Querim, 42km from Panaji. There is an old fort in the village, which contains the Chapel of St Anthony. The chapel is usually locked except during guided tours. You can stop on the way at Querim Beach, which is usually deserted.

Practical Information
Most people come here by motorbike or taxi. The nearest petrol station is in Arambol. A GTDC tour comes daily from Panaji. One Kadamba bus a day comes here from Panaji. A taxi from Panaji costs Rs 700. You can also catch a bus from Mapusa or Arambol to Querim, on the south side of the river. To get to Terekhol, cross the river at Querim on the ferry that runs every half-hour between 6 am and 10 pm.

The only place to stay here is the Hotel Tirakhol Fort Heritage (02366 68248; fax 0832 283-326). The hotel has basic, windowless rooms for Rs 500, and other rooms ranging from Rs 1400 (with bath) to a comfortable luxury suite with a view of the ocean for Rs 2000. The honeymoon suite has a great view south along the coast. The restaurant here serves Indian and Chinese food.

South Goa
South Goa is less developed than North Goa. It has some of the finest beaches. Often the first beach people visit in South Goa is Colva, the most developed of all the beaches. Colva is in the middle of a 25km stretch of white-sand beaches fringed with palm trees. Colva is popular with package tour groups. Longer-staying budget travelers usually head to Benaulim.

Further south is Palolem, 2km west of the town of Chaudi. This place is frequented by long-staying budget travelers.

Bogmalo
Area Code: 0832
Bogmalo Beach is a small, sandy cove on Mormugao Peninsula. The beach is clean and uncrowded, and the water is relatively safe for swimming. This place is popular with chartered tours.

There are several beach restaurants (mostly expensive) and places to shop. Bogmalo is 8km southwest of Vasco da Gama and 4km from the airport and can be reached by bus or taxi.

Where to Stay and Eat
Accommodations in Bogmalo are limited, so it is best to book in advance during the season.
O Mar Beach Resort (510-121), behind the beach, has a covered verandah and a restaurant.
Petite Guest House (510-122), not far from the beach in the village, has rooms with bath for Rs 1200.
The modern Joet’s (555-036) on the beach has breezy rooms with good views for Rs 600. During the season this place is booked by chartered tours. It has a terrace restaurant.
Vinny’s Holiday Resort (510-174) has A/C rooms for Rs 1400. It has a shuttle bus to the beach and airport. It is in a peaceful location.
Park Plaza Resort (513-291; fax 512-510) has rooms for $190.
The five-star Oberoi Bogmalo Beach (513-311; fax 512-510), overlooking the beach, has central A/C, a pool, and a terrace.
There are many places to eat at along the beach.
Full Moon Kneipe, outside the Oberoi’s entrance, is popular but expensive.

Quepem
In Quepem, 15km southeast of Margao, is the Chandreswar (Moon God) Temple. Every full moon, water is said to ooze from the Siva-linga when it is hit by moonlight. The temple has been especially designed to ensure that this happens. There is a carved temple chariot and a good view from the hilltop.

Majorda Beach
There are several resort hotels just north of Colva at Majorda Beach, 12km from Margao. The beach here is broad and flat. A motorcycle taxi costs Rs 40 (15 min). From the airport it is a twenty-minute taxi ride.

The five-room Old Comfort (254-225; fax 220-139), is a renovated, 300-year-old Portuguese house with rooms which range from Rs 700 to Rs 1200 (Rs 500 to Rs 1000 in the low season). There is a kitchen in which guests are permitted to cook. It is set back from the beach in a peaceful location.

The five-star Majorda Beach Resort (220-025; fax 730-212), a two-minute walk from the beach, has 110 rooms with A/C for Rs 3500, and luxury villas for Rs 4500. It has three restaurants, pleasant gardens, and good discounts during the low season.

Regency Travelodge Resort (754-180; fax 754-186), has comfortable rooms for Rs 4000 (Rs 7500 during Christmas). It has gardens with palm trees and lawns, well-designed rooms, and balconies. It is next to a good, white-sand beach.

Varca
Area Code: 0832

Varca, 4km south of Benaulim, is secluded and does not see many visitors, but it is just beginning to become a frequented resort beach. The high season is from October to April. During the Christmas rush, prices rise 50%.

The only budget places to stay here are rooms in people’s homes. Facilities are basic, with outhouses and well water for washing.

The new, three-star Resorte de Goa (745-066; fax 745-310) has rooms and nice chalets surrounding a pool and sunbathing terrace. It has a high-class restaurant and good sea views. It is only a short walk from the beach. Rooms range from Rs 2300 to Rs 2700 for the nicer chalets.

The five-star Goa Renaissance Resort (745-208; fax 745-225) has a waterfall in the reception and a six-hole golf course, a pool, water sports, disco, Polynesian restaurant and a casino. Rooms all have a balcony facing the sea and cost $230.

Cavelossim
Area Code: 0832

This isolated place, 6km south of Varca, is becoming more developed and popular with package tours. It is best to call the hotels in advance and make sure they are not booked by tour groups during the season.

Gaffino’s Beach Resort (746-385) has good, clean rooms for Rs 450/500 (Rs 400/450 off-season). It is popular with package tour groups.
Old Anchor Resort (746-337; fax 746-336) is an older place with a pool. Rooms are Rs 1500/2500.
Dona Sylvia (746-321; fax 746-320) is a popular place with tour groups. It has a pool and rooms are Rs 3500/4000 (more during Christmas).
Holiday Inn Resort (746-303; fax 746-333), located close to the beach, is one of the better placesxe "Majorda Beach" . Rooms set around a pool are Rs 4000 to Rs 6000. During Christmas, rooms go for Rs 5500 to Rs 8000.
The five-star Leela Beach Resort (746-363; fax 746-352), has great facilities including a pool, gym, tennis and squash courts, health spa, and water sports. It is beautifully designed around an artificial lagoon. The nearby beach, lined with palm trees, is excellent. Rooms are $350 during the Christmas holidays and $250 at other times.

Cabo De Rama
There is an interesting old Fort here on Cape Rama overlooking the sea. The Cape was given this name because it is believed that Rama and his wife Sita spent time here during their exile. This place is 35km south of Colva.

The fort was captured by the Portuguese in 1783 and used as a prison. The fort is surrounded by a moat and there are several old cannons on the ramparts. There are good views from the walls of the fort, especially the south wall at sunset. There is an old church near the gate.

There aresome places near the entrance of the fort, which provide food and basic rooms.

Chaudi (Canacona or Chauri)
This village is 33km south of Margao and 2km from Palolem on NH17, on the road between Panaji and Karwar (Karnataka). Two km from Chaudi is the modern Hotel Molyma (0832 643-028; fax 643-081), which has forty large rooms for Rs 300. It is a good value and has a restaurant. Canacona Palace Udupi Hotel, near the crossroads, serves good vegetarian meals.
Regular buses from Panaji, Margao, and Karwar (in Karnataka) come here. The only pharmacy (chemist) in the area is in this town.

Agonda
Agonda is 10km north of Chaudi and can only be reached by a winding coastal road. There is an excellent beach here lined with todi trees. The local villagers are strongly opposed to tourist development. The only place to stay is the Dunhill Restaurant, a friendly place with basic rooms and nice verandahs and outhouse toilets.

Rajbag
This is a secluded beach a couple of kilometres south of Palolem. The Molyma Hotel (0832 643-028), Kindlebaga, Canacona, is the only place to stay. To get to Rajbag you will need your own transportation.

Cotiagao Wildlife Sanctuary
This sanctuary, 10km southeast of Chaudi, 12km southeast of Palolem, and 60km south of Panaji, was established in 1969. It is 86 square km of woodlands and is a nice place to visit. There is a good chance you will see wild boars, two kinds of monkeys, gaurs (Indian bison), and various types of birds. There are also panthers, sloth bears, porcupines, hyenas, and gazelles here, but they are rarely seen. The best time to visit is from October to March.

There is a 25m high treetop watchtower overlooking a waterhole, which animals use around dawn and dusk. To stay in the park overnight at the Forest Department’s Rest House or in the watchtower, you have to apply at the Deputy Conservator of Forests (0832 45926) 3rd Fl, Junta House, Panaji.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides