Darjeeling (Darjiling)

Darjeeling, around 575km north of Calcutta, is one of the main hill stations in India. It has a good atmosphere and some great mountain views. It is in the Himalayas at 2200m. fDarjeeling is famous as being the place where some of the best teas in the world are grown. You can stop here while going from Nepal to Calcutta or the other way around. Darjeeling is a popular place with foreign travelers.

The air is usually cool and windy. Darjeeling has a very much Nepali feel about it, because the British brought many Nepalis here to work on the tea plantations.

The British first came here in 1828 and they convinced the king of Sikkim to allow them to use it as a health retreat. In 1861, the British forced the king to grant them Darjeeling. In the 1980s, the Gorkha (Nepali) National Liberation Front conducted a violent battle to form a separate Indian state and be separate from West Bengal. There was a compromise in 1988 in which the Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council was formed.

One-fourth of the tea grown in India is from the Darjeeling area, and over 40,000 workers are engaged in tea production. The tea produced here is some of the best in the world and much of it is exported.

Kanchenjunga (8586m), the world’s third highest mountain, 70km away, is visible on a clear day. A popular trek from here is to go to Sandakphu to see Mt Everest, The best times to visit Darjeeling are from Sept to Nov and mid-Feb to May. During the winter, Darjeeling can be damp and cold. During the monsoon season, from the end of June to mid-September it can be very cloudy and the mountains can not be seen. It can rain a lot here.

Orientation
Darjeeling runs along a ridge and goes down a hill with winding roads and steps. The main road in the lower part of town is Hill Cart Rd (renamed Tenzing Norgay Rd), and the railway station, bus stand and taxi stand are on it. Nehru Rd (The Mall) and Laden La are the main roads on the top of the ridge, where there are several cheaper hotels and restaurants, the State Bank of India and the GPO. Some higher end and middle class hotels are near Observatory Hill.

The Mall (renamed Nehru Rd) and Chowrasta are closed to vehicles. Chowrasta is a large promenade above Hill Cart Rd, which is popular with tourist, The Mall is one of the roads that meets Chowrasta.

Information
The West Bengal Tourist Office (54050), 1 The Mall, Chowrasta, above the Indian Airlines office, has a hiking map. It has luggage storage facilities, can arrange transportation for local sightseeing, and runs a bus to Siliguri and Bagdogra Airport (4 hr, Rs 55), if there are enough passengers. They arrange a morning and afternoon tour of the area and a tour to Mirik. Open Mon to Fri 10 am to 4.30 pm. There is also a tourist counter at the railway station and at New Car Park, Laden La Rd.

You can also get a ticket for the airport bus at Gorkha Hill Council Tourism (54214), in the Silver Fir building.

Trek-Mate (54074), Nehru Rd, across from the tourist office, is a good source of information. They arrange treks and equipment rental.

A good source of trekking information is the tourist logs in the Youth Hostel, Aliment Hotel and Hotel Tower View.

The Foreigners’ Registration Office is on Laden La Rd, across from the State Bank of India.

The Tibetan Medical Institute, at the Hotel Seven Seventeen, is open 9 am to noon and 2 to 4 pm.

Oxford Book and Stationery Company is a good bookshop. Often budget hotels exchange books.

Darjeeling Transport Corp, Laden La Rd, hires out cars. There is white-water rafting on the Tista River.

Money, Post and Internet
You can change money at the Bank of India, Laden La Rd. You may have to wait a while. At ANZ Grindlays Bank you can change cash and travelers cheques, and use a Visa card.
The GPO is on Laden La Rd. You can send and receive faxes at the telegraph office (54330), near Laden La Rd.

Udayan Communication, in the Hotel Red Rose, 37 Laden La Rd, near the GPO, sends and receives e-mail at a reasonable rate (open 8 am to 9 pm).

Sikkim Permit
To get a permit you first go to the Deputy Commissioner’s (District Magistrates) Office, Hill Cart Rd, north of the bus station. The office is on the first floor of the central building. Open Mon to Fri 11 am to 1 pm and 2.30 to 4 pm.

You then take the stamped form to the Foreigners’ Registration Office, Laden La Rd, to get a police signature or stamp. You then go back to the Deputy Commissioner’s Office and get the permit.

It is valid for 15 days, is free, and a photo is not necessary. If you want to go to western Sikkim without going to Gangtok make sure Naya Bazaar is listed on the permit. You have to get the permit to be able to go to Dzongri at Gangtok.

Trekking and Tour Operators
Himalayan Treks, published by West Bengal Tourism, is a good booklet that has information about trekking in the area. The Tourist Office can give helpful information about treks in the area, arrange a good guide, book accommodations, and arrange equipment.

Trek-Mate (54074), on Nehru Rd opposite the Tourist Bureau, arranges treks in the Sikkim and Darjeeling areas and can do special tours. They also rent equipment.

Himalayan Travels (54544), 18/1 Gandhi Rd, organizes treks to West Sikkim and Sandakphu and mountaineering expeditions.

Himalayan Adventures (54090), 15 Nehru Rd, does upmarket treks and tours.

Moktan Mountain Treks & Tours, c/o Youth Hostel, does treks to Sikkim and Sandakphu.
Himalayan Nature & Adventure Foundation, 3 Belomber Rd, opposite Dhirdham Temple, is managed by the field director of the HMI. Does Dzongri and Teesta valley treks and is very organized.

Greenland Tours & Treks, Laden La Rd, does trekking, travel and tours.
Himali Treks and Tours (52154), Super Market complex, near Bazaar bus stand on Hill Cart Rd, does treks and rents equipment.

Clubside Tours and Travels (54646), JP Sharma Rd (off Laden La Rd), does treks and wildlife tours to North Bengal and Assam. Very experienced and recommended.

Trekking equipment can be rented at the Youth Hostel, but you have to leave a deposit. The hostel has a useful book, in which trekkers write down routes and comments about different treks.

Observatory Hill
You can get good mountain views from here including being able to see Kanchenjunga Mountain. There is a Siva temple and one dedicated to Mahakala, who is the wrathful Buddhist deity.

It is best to come here early in the morning before dawn. The monkeys can be aggressive here, especially if you have food in your hand.

Lloyd Botanical Gardens
It has an interesting collection of mountain plants and trees. It has a hot house and a large amount of orchids. It is below the bus stand. Open 6 am to 5 pm; free.

Happy Valley Tea Estate
This is the closest place where you can see Darjeeling tea growing. Visitors can see the factory where they process the tea in the old orthodox way. You will be shown what happens to a tealeaf over four days of processing with machines.

It is in northeast Darjeeling on Hill Cart Rd, two km from the center of Darjeeling. Open Mon to Sat 8 am to 4 pm & Sun 8 am to noon. It is only interesting when the tea leaves are being harvested from April to November, because the processing only takes place at this time. You should give a little something to the person giving the tour.

Rangeet Valley Passenger Ropeway
The ropeway takes a half-hour 5km trip out into the country. Rs 30 roundtrip. There has to be four passengers for it to run. Open Mon to Fri 8 am to noon and 12.30 to 3.30 pm.

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park
It has some rare species of animals such as Siberian tigers, snow leopards and red pandas. The zoo is located at the north end of Darjeeling’s ridge. It is about a 20 minutes walk from Chowrasta, the main area in town. Open daily except Thurs 8 am to 4 pm; admission Rs 3.

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)
HMI climbing courses are only open to Indians. They mainly train the Indian Army. The Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay, was the first director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and he co-conquered Mt Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953. He was from Darjeeling. Until the 1970s Nepal hardly had any roads, so the earliest Everest trips began in Darjeeling. It is next to the Zoo. There is a memorial to Tenzing Norgay above the institute.

There are two good museums. The interesting Everest Museum has items in relation to climbing Everest, It explains the history of trying to climb the mountain beginning with the first attempt in 1857. Open daily 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4.30 pm; free. There is also the Mountaineering Museum, which has a model of the Himalayas, among other things. It has a telescope with which you can view Kanchenjunga. It was a gift from Adolf Hitler to one of the king of Nepal’s prime ministers.

Ghoom Monastery & other Gompas
This large shrine, founded in 1850 by Sharap Gyatso, has a 5m (16 ft) high golden statue of Maitreya Buddha (the Buddha in the future). It has beautiful paintings on the walls. It is close to the Gloom railway station, 8km south of Darjeeling. The toy-train comes here twice a day. It is a nice walk to here from Darjeeling.

Also in Ghoom there are the Sakyachoeling, Samdenchoeling and Phin Sotholing gompas.
Gompas

Bhotia Busty Gompa, near Chowrasta, is a brightly colored monastery. It has a library that contains the original copy of the Tibetan Book of the Dead.

The Aloobari Monastery, on Tenzing Norgay Rd, is worth seeing. The monks sell Tibetan and Sikkimese handicrafts that they often make themselves.

There are also the Sonada Gompa, on the way to Ghoom, and the Thupten Sangachoeling Gompa, between Darjeeling and Ghoom.

Tiger Hill
At 2590m, Tiger Hill is the best place to get great views of Mt Kanchenjunga and other peaks. You can often see Mt Everest and the mountains around it on a clear day. From here you get a 360º view of the Himalayas. Land rovers depart Darjeeling on clear days for the 11km trip to this place to be there in time for the sunrise. There is a viewing tower here (Rs 10). There is no place to stay here, so after the sunrise most people leave, You can take a jeep here and then walk back to Darjeeling, which is a nice two-hour walk. Walking up takes around four hours starting at Chowrasta. It costs around Rs 50 for a seat in a taxi that departs at 4 am from Clubside.

Other Places
The Dhirdham Temple is similar to the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu.

Bengal Natural History Museum has a lot of stuffed animals, especially birds. Open daily except Thurs 10 am to 4 pm; admission Rs 1.

There are good views of Kanchenjunga Mountains from Bhan Bhakta Sarani, which is about 250m to the right of the Windamere Hotel.
The area around Senchal Lake near Tiger Hill is a beautiful place.
Gymkhana Club (54341) offers temporary day membership to use their facilities, which include billiards, snooker, a rolling skating rink, tennis, table tennis, squash and a library.

Shopping
Most of the best shops are on Nehru Rd and Chowrasta. Good bronze statues are expensive. Many shops accept credit cards.

At the Tibetan Self Help Centre, refugees from Tibet make carpets and Tibetan handicrafts. They sell carpets (expensive), clothes and hats. Manjusha Emporium, Nehru Rd, has good handicrafts, silks and handmade cotton products. Hayden Hall, Laden La Rd, has good woolen goods made by local ladies.

Das Studios, Chowrasta, has black and white photos dating back to the British Raj’s day. Nepal Curio House, Nehru Rd, has a great selection of jewelry, bronzes and thangkas. Habib Mullick, Chowrasta Rd, is a long-established high-end shop with jewelry and Tibetan items.

Where to Stay—Lower
The Youth Hostel, Dr Zakir Hussein Rd, has dorm beds for Rs 40 for members and Rs 70 for nonmembers. It is poorly maintained. It has a trekker’s comment book, which can be invaluable. They rent trekking equipment and can help arrange a trek. Free luggage storage. 10 pm curfew.
Aliment (225-5068), 40 Dr Zakir Hussein Rd, is a friendly place that has basic cheap clean rooms for Rs 130/200, rooms with bath for Rs 275 and dorm beds for Rs 75. Recommended. It has a popular restaurant.
Hotel Tower View (225-4452; fax 54330; Email: towerviewW@satyam.net.in), Dr Zakir Hussein Rd, near the TV tower, is a friendly family-run place with rooms with common bath for Rs 90/155 and a room with bath and a good view for Rs 250/300. Dorm bed Rs 75. It is a popular place with a good trekking log.
Hotel Shamrock, Upper Beechwood Rd, is a popular place with rooms for Rs 150/250. Some rooms have bathrooms. Hot water in a bucket. From the upstairs rooms there are good views. Popular with travelers.
Hotel Pagoda, (225-3498), Beechwood Rd, next door, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 350. It is a well-managed place in a nice location. It is a good value.
Hotel Prestige (52699), near Laden La Rd, above the GPO up some steps, has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350/600. The rooms upstairs are better. It has a library. It is a popular place with travelers. Recommended.
Hotel Tshering Denzongpa (53412), 6 JP Sharma Rd, has rooms for Rs 300 to Rs 800. The higher priced rooms have better views. Free bucket hot water. It is a really good place. Good discounts in the off-season.

Where to Stay —Middle
Hotel Shangrila (54149), 5 Nehru Rd, has nice, large rooms (some with views) with fireplaces for Rs 1150 (half price in the off-season).
Pineridge (225-4074: Email: pineridge@dte.vsnl.net.in), Nehru Rd, has spacious double rooms for Rs 1000 and Rs 1400. Some rooms have good views. It could be better maintained. There are good discounts in the off-season.
Bellevue Hotel (222254075; fax 54330), Chowrasta, is a nice older place with rooms with bath and hot water in the morning for Rs 1000/1200. There are good discounts in the off-season. It is recommended.
Main Bellevue Hotel (225-4178) is a nice older building with double rooms for Rs 800 and rooms with a view of Kanchenjunga for Rs 1000. It is well-managed and has a nice garden.
Hotel Seven Seventeen (225-4717: fax: 225-4717), HD Lama Rd, has rooms for Rs 1200/1500. It is a friendly, well-managed place.
Hotel Lunar (54194), 51 Gandhi Rd, has good rooms with bath for Rs 1000/1100. It has a good veg restaurant.
Hotel Daffodil (52605) has rooms for Rs 550.
Hotel Dekeling (225-4159: Email: norbu@dekeling.com), 51 Gandhi Rd, above the Dekevas Restaurant, has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 1050/1400. It is popular with travelers. 40% discounts during the off-season. It is a friendly, recommended place.
Hotel Dil (52773), 12A Rockville Rd, has nice clean rooms for Rs 650.
Rockville Hotel (52513), 4 Rockville Rd, has rooms for Rs 400.
Hotel Valentino (52228), 6 Rockville Rd, has modern rooms for Rs 1000 to Rs 1250, including breakfast, There are some great views and heaters are provided free in the winter. It is a nice place. It has a good Chinese restaurant.
Palace Mahakal (52026), Cooch Behar Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 1000/1250 and luxurious deluxe rooms with outstanding views for Rs 1200/1600.
Darjeeling Club (225-4348), near Nehru Rd, has poorly maintained dismal rooms on the ground floor for Rs 1500, nicer rooms upstairs for Rs 2400, and spacious comfortable rooms upstairs for Rs 2300. It has a billiards room and it is a nice place to sit around. There are discounts in the off-season.

Where to Stay—High
New Elgin (254114; fax 254267;Email: newelgin@sancharnet.in), HD Lama Rd off Robertson Rd, is a nice, well-maintained older place with luxury rooms for $100/110. The service is good. It has a good restaurant. Recommended.
Windamere Hotel (254041; fax 254043; Email: reservation@windamerehotel.net), Jawahar Rd West, is an older hotel with character dating back to the Raj, which has a well-maintained beautiful garden. Comfortable rooms with heaters are $110/140, which includes meals. Rooms are more expensive during the Christmas holidays. This is the best place in town.

Where to Eat
Frank Ross Cafe, Nehru Rd, is a good vegetarian place with Mexican dishes, veggie burgers, pizza, South Indian dishes and other international dishes.
Park Restaurant, opposite the State Bank of India, has good Indian and Chinese food.
Great Punjab Restaurant, Robertson Rd, has good veg Punjabi food.
Aliment is a good popular cheap place.
Dekevas Restaurant, Nehru Rd, is a popular place with very good Chinese, Tibetan and pizza.
Lhasa Restaurant has good cheap Tibetan food.
Keventer’s Snack Bar, Nehru Rd, is a popular place. It has a pleasant terrace with good views.
Dafey Munal Restaurant, Oaden La Rd, by the Club-side taxi stand, is popular.
Nimto Snacks, at the junction Laden La and Nehru Rd, has cheap Tibetan food and snacks.
Tower View is a popular place.
Hasty Tasty, Nehru Rd, is a good, popular place with snacks, South Indian food and ice cream. It is a great selection of vegetarian dishes.
Wali’s Bakery, Hill Cart Rd, has a good selection of cakes and breads.
Jain Bhojanalaya, NC Goenka Rd, has good vegetarian food.
New Dish, JP Sharma Rd, has really good Chinese food.
Greenwood, Dr Zakir Hussain Rd, has good Nepali and Tibetan food, and salads (Rs 75 per meal).
Stardust, Chowrasta, is a good popular, vegetarian place. It has good mountain views.
Silver Restaurant (54114), in the New Elgin Hotel, has a set dinner for Rs 275. It should be booked in advance.
Glenary’s, on Nehru Rd, is a good restaurant and also has a bakery. It is one of the best places in town, but is not cheap.
New Embassy Chinese Restaurant, in the Hotel Valentino, is a good Chinese place. Main dishes are around Rs 75. It closes at 8 pm.
Windamere Hotel has a set meal for Rs 500. During the meal there is a pianist or string quartet. There is also afternoon tea for Rs 125.

Travel
Air The nearest airport is in Bagdogra (3 hr), 90km south, near Siliguri. You can purchase bus tickets to the airport at the tourist office.

Indian Airlines (54230), Bellevue Hotel (open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4 pm). Clubside Tours (54646), JP Sharma Rd, is the Jet Airways and other airlines agent. Juniper Travels (52625) is the agent for Nepali Airlines that fly from Bhadrapur in Nepal (just over the border) to Kathmandu.

Train The only train departing from Darjeeling is the toy train to Siliguri (80km) and New Jalpaiguri. Long distance trains departing from the New Jalpaiguri railway station can be reserved at the Darjeeling railway station (daily 10 am to 4 pm).

The toy train departs daily from Siliguri at 9 am and arrives in Darjeeling at 5.30 pm. During the high season another train departs Siliguri at 7.15 am. The train departs from Darjeeling at 8 and 10 am. It costs Rs 16 (2nd class) or Rs 124 (1st class). The first-class coaches have large windows so you can get a good view. It is an interesting trip, but it can get a bit uncomfortable. You can get off the train in Kurseong, after going four hours and then take the bus (Rs 17) or a jeep (Rs 35) the rest of the way (1½ hr). The train may not run in the monsoon, because the track gets washed away.

You can also take the toy train from Darjeeling to Ghoom (Rs 4, 45 minutes), which is a nice trip.

Bus Most buses depart from the Bazaar bus stand on Hill Cart Rd. There are buses to Siliguri (3 hr, many), Kalimpong (3½ hr, one daily at 8 am), Mirik (2½ hr, regularly) and Gangtok (5 hr, 5 daily).

Darjeeling Motor Service Co (52101), 32 Laden La Rd, is the agent for Sikkim Nationalized Transport (SNT). Open 10 am to 1 pm. There is one bus daily at 1 pm to Sikkim that departs from across from the office.

There are many private bus companies that offer buses to Guwahati (22 hr), Gangtok (5 hr), Calcutta (20 hr), Kalimpong (2½ hr) and New Jalpaiguri (4 hr). Greenland Tours & Travel (53190), 21 Beechwood Rd, near the Hotel Prestige, is an established company.

Taxi & Jeep There are shared jeeps from the bus stand to Gangtok, Kalimpong, Siliguri (every 15 minutes, Rs 50), Jorethang (2½ hr), Yuksom (5 hr) and Pemayangtse (4½ hr). Sometimes during the monsoon the road to Jorethang is washed away. At this time the jeeps have to go via Teesta Bridge and will then charge 50% more.
You get a shared jeep to Sikkim at the jeep stand next to the bus stand on Hill Cart Rd.

Kathmandu To get to Kathmandu you can go with a private company or arrange it yourself. The normal way with a private company is to take a bus to Siliguri and change buses there with the same company. You get to the border in the afternoon and then get another bus on the Nepal side of the border arriving in Kathmandu about 18 hours later. The entire trip takes about 27 hours.
To arrange the trip yourself is easy and you can go at your own pace and can stop over if you like. You first get a bus from Darjeeling to Siliguri and then you get a bus or jeep from Siliguri to Paniktanki, on the border. You then cross the border and get another bus at Kakarbhitta in Nepal to Kathmandu. There is a night bus from the border directly to Pokhara. You can also get a bus to the interesting town of Janakpur.

You can get a visa at the border in Paniktanki for $25, which you usually have to pay in US dollars (exact change is expected). The closest Nepali consulate is in Calcutta.

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