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Population:
30,000
Phone Code: 05619
This
was the temporary capital of Emperor Akbar, of the Mughal Empire, between
1570 to 1586. It is a perfectly preserved deserted city. It is 40km
west of Agra and is a popular and interesting place. Emperor Akbar was
emperor from 1556 to 1605. Despite having three wives, he was unable
to have a son. He came to the city of Sikri and met the Sufi mystic
called Sheikh Salim Chishti. Salim told the Emperor that he would have
at least three sons. A year later, the first son was born. In gratitude,
Akbar named the son Salim (later known as Jahangir), after the saint
and he also moved his capital here. Two more sons were later born.
Fatehpur
Sikri was the capital of the Mughal Empire for fifteen years. It was
then moved back to Agra. It is believed that it was deserted because
of lack of water, but the exact reason is unknown. What is left are
a perfectly preserved old palace area, and an impressive mosque. It
was not rediscovered until the 19th century.
Most
people visit Fatehpur Sikri on a day trip from Agra. It can also be
visited while traveling between Jaipur or Bharatpur and Agra.
Information
If you arrive by car, when you reach the entrance gate for Fatehpur
Sikri each passenger in the car is charged a Rs 5 fee. If you arrive
by bus or train, the palace area is about a 5-minute walk up the hill.
There
is a bank near the bus stand, but as it may be difficult to change money
there. It is best to exchange your money before you get here.
In many cases no one really knows what many of the buildings that are
located in the palace are. So you can expect the guides to make up stories,
which are often still interesting. As it is a little difficult to find
your way around, especially if you are in a hurry, a guide can be useful.
You should not pay more than Rs 100.
The
tour buses stop only for an hour here.
Warning Be careful of the unofficial guides that will
meet you in front of the mosque. These guides may give you a good tour
of the mosque, which takes about 10 minutes, but they are not allowed
to enter the Palace area, which is where most of the sites are located.
You should make sure you get one of the government authorized guides,
who are also much more professional and knowledgeable. The unofficial
guides will also try to get you to go into a handicraft shop, where
they get a big commission. The licensed guides mainly hang out near
the ticket office near the palace area.
Jami
Mosque
Jami Mosque is one of the biggest mosques in India. It is also known
as Dargah Mosque. Buland Darwaza is the main gate to the Mosque. It
is 40m (132 ft) high and is on a 12m (36 ft) high base, which makes
it the highest gate in Asia. The gate was added after Akbar’s
victories in Gujarat in 1576. When you go through the gate you have
to take off your shoes. You may also go through the Badshahi
Darwaza gate (Kings gate). This gate was used by Akbar.
In the middle of the courtyard (to the north) is the Tomb of
Sheikh Salim Chishti, the Muslim Sufi saint who predicted the
birth of Akbar’s sons. It was built in 1570. The tomb is made
of red sandstone faced by marble and has very beautiful lattice screens.
Women who do not have a son hang a thread on the marble latticework
screens (jalis). A friend of mine did this and was soon pregnant—with
a daughter. The latticework screens are some of the best that you will
see in India. Qawwali singers sometimes sing. During Ramadan, qawwali
singers come from all over the country. The tomb of the grandson of
Salim Chishti, Islam Khan, is also within the courtyard.
Outside the Buland Darwaza is an old, deep well. Outside the mosque
is the small Stone-cutters’ Mosque. The cave
of Salim Chishti is said to have been located near
here. Beside it is a hammam (Turkish bath) and the
Hakim’s House (Doctor’s House).
Palace Area
The ticket office is northeast of the mosque (open daily 6 am to 5.30
pm; Admission is Rs 25 for Indianas and Rs 250 for Foreigners. Video
camera Rs 25). There is a stone panel in front of each structure, which
identifies what it is supposed to be. Official Guide charge around Rs
100.
After
entering the enclosure, the first building on the left is known as the
Jodh Bai’s Palace. Jodh Bai was the Hindu mother
of Jahangir and the daughter of the Maharaja of Jaipur (Amber). This
large palace is a blend of Muslim and Hindu architecture. It has a large
courtyard, which surrounds a central garden. A tower, the Hawa
Mahal (“Wind Palace”), is totally made of stone
latticework.
Northeast
of Jodh Bai’s Palace is Birbal’s Bhavan Palace,
which is believed to have been built either for or by Raja Birbal, Akbar’s
favorite courtier. He was killed, along with most of his army, near
Peshawar in 1586. It also is believed to be where one of the queens
of Akbar lived. Near this palace is the Lower Haramsara, which is believed
to be either where the maids of the palace lived or it might have been
a huge stable, which held over 200 elephants and horses.
Northeast
of Jodh Bai’s Palace is the small Mariam’s Palace,
which has ancient, but very faded, wall paintings. It is believed to
have been used by Akbar’s Goan Christian wife, who was named Mariam.
The
Panch Mahal is a five-storey structure supported by
columns. The ground floor has 84 columns, none of them are the same,
and the top floor has four. There is a good view from on top of the
Panch Mahal, if it is open.
As
you face the main enclosure, from the Panch Mahal, to your left is the
Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). This is where
Emperor Akbar would meet with important visitors and do private business.
It appears to be a two-storey building, but once you go inside you see
that it is one-storey, with a stone column in the middle, and a throne
on top. Thin stone bridges come out from the column meeting the corners
of the room. It is believe that the emperor would have religious discussions
here.
Next
to the Diwan-i-Khas is the Treasury. The building is
also known as Ankh Michauli, which means “hide and seek”,
and it is believed that the emperor played here with the ladies of the
court. It is also believed that it held the royal treasury. This is
believed because of the carvings of sea monsters, who are said to protect
the treasures of the ocean.
At
the northeastern end of the courtyard is the Diwan-i-Am.
This is the public audience hall, where the Emperor would deal with
the public. The emperor’s throne was located between two sandstone
slates. Next to the Diwan-i-Am is the Pachisi Courtyard.
It is believed that Akbar would play the game of pachisi using live
girls as pieces.
In
the southeast corner of the courtyard is the well-carved Turkish
Rumi Sultana Palace. Next to it is what might be a banquet
hall. At the south end of the courtyard is the Diwan Khana-i-Khas,
where Akbar is believed to have lived and slept.
To
the northeast of the palace enclosure is the Royal Mint.
A little further northeast is the Naubat
Khana
(Drum House), where the entrance of the Emperor was signaled by the
playing of musicians.
Northwest
of the palace enclosure is the Karawan Serai or Caravanserai,
which has a large courtyard surrounded by rooms. Past this building
is the Hiran Minar (Deer Minaret). This is a 21m high
tower, which has elephant tusks protruding from it. The flat area of
land near the tower used to be a lake.
Where to Stay
Archaeological Survey Rest House is a very cheap place
to stay. Rooms are just Rs 30. You have to book it in advance at the
Archaeological Survey of India (0562 236-3506), 22 The Mall, Agra.
Shree Tourist Guest House (882276), Dargah Gali, near
the bus stand, is a basic place with six clean rooms starting at Rs
125/150 and Rs 175 with air-cooling.
Maurya Rest House (882348), Buland Darwaza, has basic
rooms with common bath for Rs 150/175 and with bath for Rs 255. It is
well-managed by a nice family. They serve meals here. It is the best
budget place in town.
The UP government-run Gulistan Tourist Complex (288-2490),
Agra Rd, is a comfortable mid-range place with rooms for Rs 500/600
and Rs 850/950 for an A/C room. There is a Rs 100 discount from April
to Sept. It is built around a courtyard and it has a restaurant. It
is a pleasant place in a peaceful location.
The new Govardhan Tourist Complex (288-2643) has air-cooled
rooms with bath and bucket hot water for Rs 350. Dorm beds are Rs 120.
Kallu Hotel, near the Buland Darwaza gate, serves thalis for Rs 40.
Travel
It is easy to make a day trip to here from Agra. You can get a bus from
Agra’s Idgah bus station to here, which takes about an hour (every
30-min, from 6 am to 7 pm, Rs 15). There are also buses to Bharatpur
(every half-hour, 17km, 1 hr), Mathura, and a few buses to Jaipur. An
auto-rickshaw to Bharatpur takes a half-hour (Rs 50). You could spend
the day in Fatehpur Sikri and then head to Bharatpur. If you have bags
you can leave them at the bus station restaurant. Three or four trains
a day come here from the Agra Fort railway station (1 hr) (5.30 am,
11 am and 4 pm). Tour buses stop for only an hour, which is not enough
time to see the place at a leisurely pace.
If you know of
a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update
our listings, please e-mail us at:

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