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India Travel


Departure Tax
When you leave India, you will be required to pay a Rs 500 departure tax just before you check in for your departing flight. The departure tax is Rs 250 if you are going to a neighboring SAARC country. This amount must be paid in rupees. If you purchase a ticket in India it is included in the ticket price.


Package Tours
There are many different package tour options. The typical tour goes to Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, a few cities in Rajasthan, Varanasi, often Khajuraho, and then goes to Kathmandu. A South India tour will usually go to Chennai, Bangalore, Mysore, and maybe Hyderabad or Kochi.

There are special interest tours specializing in trekking, safaris, wildlife parks, beaches, or the Palace on Wheels train tour. Usually these tours work out more expensive than if you arranged them yourself, but if time and comfort are important to you, a tour can be the best way to go. A package beach holiday to Goa or Kovalam can actually work out cheaper.

Many travel agencies who specialize in selling tickets to India and Southeast Asia have package tour options. If you are going on your first trip to India and money is not that important, a package tour is a good introduction. A two-week tour may cost around $2,000 for two weeks, not including the airline ticket. The Palace on Wheels costs $2100 for a seven-day tour.

The fact that you have a tour guide with you most of the time helps to protect you from being cheated and from other problems. On the other hand, tour guides are often working with merchants, receiving a percentage of any sale (often 25% or more). This is not only true of the Indian guides, but of the foreign tour guides as well. An Indian friend who was learning to be a government tour guide in Varanasi was shocked when the foreign tour guide with whom he was with went to receive his commission at a shop to which he had brought his group.

Overland to India
If you plan to bring your own vehicle, you will require an international license, the vehicle’s legal papers, insurance, and a carnet de passage in douane, which provides a temporary waiver from import duty. You also need the carnet for expensive spare parts that you will be carrying. Inquire at your local automobile club about this, and about getting an international license. When you cross the border into certain countries, you will have to purchase liability insurance for the period during which you will be in that country. You should check for the availability of spare parts for your vehicle in countries you plan to visit. Unleaded fuel is usually only available in India’s large cities, but is becoming more popular elsewhere.

From Europe
From Europe you have to travel through Turkey, Iran, and Pakistan to reach India. US citizens are not permitted to travel in Iran. Afghanistan is also presently blocked due to the political situation. Many travelers fly to Turkey, Jordan, or Pakistan and begin their overland tour from there.
Several companies in London arrange overland trips to India and across Asia. Encounter Overland (0171 370-6951, 6845), 267 Old Brompton Rd, London SW5 9LA, UK; Exodus (0180 675-5550), 9 Weir Rd, London SW12 0LT, UK; or Top Deck Travel (0171 370-4555), 131-135 Earls Court Rd, London SW5 9RH. I talked to a group of people who took an Encounter Overland trip to India and all of them were extremely pleased with their experience. They considered it a real adventure.    

Pakistan
The only border crossing is at Attari in India, between Lahore (Pakistan) and Amritsar (India). To get from Lahore to Amritsar by train, you purchase a ticket from Lahore to Attari, then another ticket from Attari to Amritsar. There is a daily train from Lahore at 11.30 am arriving in Amritsar at 3 pm. The train spends a few hours at the border for immigration and customs.
To get to Pakistan from India the train departs Amritsar at 9.30 am and arrives in Lahore at 1.35

pm. Immigration and Customs are cleared at the Lahore railway station. Sometimes the train can take much longer because of border delays. You cannot purchase tickets or seats in advance in Amritsar. Therefore, it is advisable to arrive early at the train station to purchase a ticket.
In Amritsar you can get Pakistan rupees from people at the train station. Usually you will get a better exchange rate in Pakistan than in India. The train can take a long time to clean customs, so it usually faster to take the bus.

By bus from Lahore, travelers go to Wagha, the Pakistan border town, from where they walk across the border. There are porters at the border to help carry luggage. You then take another bus or a taxi to Amritsar. Buses from Lahore depart from the bus stand on Badami Bagh. The border is open between 9.15 am and 3.30 pm. The PTDC Motel in Wagha is decent.

Bangladesh
The main crossings are at Benapol-Haridaspur, going to Calcutta, and Chilahati-Haldibari, going to Darjeeling. You can also cross into Northeast India at the border of Tripura going between Akaur and Agartala, and at Tamabil-Dauki on the way to Meghalaya. There are some other border crossings, which you may be able to find out about from the tourist offices or by asking other travelers. You should make sure you get a visa foIndia in advance.

If you fly into Bangladesh and later leave by land, you require a road permit, available from the Passport and Immigration Offices, 2nd floor, 17/1 Segunbagicha Rd in Dhaka. If you entered Bangladesh by land, you do not require a road permit to leave Bangladesh, regardless of what you may be told.           

Dhaka to Calcutta  Buses from Dhaka to the border town of Benapol depart only between 8 and 11 pm. It is best to book such buses a day in advance. From Benapol to the border takes ten minutes on a bicycle-rickshaw (1km). From the Indian border town of Haridaspur, it is about 10km (a 20-minute auto-rickshaw ride). You can change money at Bangaon at a better rate than at the border.

Chilahati to Darjeeling To get to Darjeeling, you first go to the Bangladesh town of Chilahati, which can be reached by train or bus. The border town in India is called Haldibari. From there you go to New Jalpaiguri, two hours away by train. From there, you can get a train or bus to Darjeeling. You can change money at Haldibari, but it is difficult to change money in Chilahati.
Sylhet to Shillong Travelers once required a permit to cross the border from Bangladesh to India, but permits are no longer needed. From Sylhet it takes 2½ hours to get to the border town of Tamabil. From there it is 15-minute walk to the border. From the border it is a 1½ km walk to the border town of Dauki in India. From there it takes 3½ hours by bus to get to Shillong in Meghalaya.


Bicycles
In many towns you can hire a bike. Bikes are cheap, around Rs 20 a day. Indian bikes are heavy and do not have gears, but they are good for short distances. When you rent a bike you should check a few, as there can be a big difference between one bike and another. Also, be sure you get a bike that has a bell, so you can warn people that you are coming. You can purchase a new bike for about Rs 1,200.

If you get a hole in your tire, don’t worry. There are many bicycle repair shops. If you want to get the tire repair done quickly, offer a little more than the normal Rs 3 repair charge.

Hitching a Ride
Hitching a ride usually means getting a ride on a truck. It is expected that those who are hitching a ride will pay something, often the price it would have cost to take the bus. If a private car picks you up, there is no need to pay anything. Usually a bus is a much better option, as they run frequently all over India.

It is not a good idea for women to hitchhike without a man to accompany them. It would be almost insane for a woman to hitchhike alone in India.

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