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Kanchipuram

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Pop: 189,000 Area
Phone Code: 04112

Located 70km southwest of Chennai, Kanchipuram is known as the “Golden City of Temples.” It is considered one of the seven main sacred cities of India. It has over one hundred temples now, but at one time it is said to have had about one thousand. Kanchipuram is believed to give eternal happiness to one who goes there. It is said that “Ka” (Brahma) “anchi” (worshiped)

Lord Vishnu at this place and that is why the city was given the name Kanchipuram. Puram means “city.” Kanchipuram is 71km (45 miles) southwest of Chennai on the Vegavati River, and 64km west of Mamallapuram. While Kanchipuram has some outstanding temples, the town itself is not so interesting. Most people just see the temples here in a day and leave.

Kanchipuram was the capital of the Pallavas rulers from the 7th to 9th centuries. It was also important during the Chola, Vijayanagar, and Nayaka periods. It is an ancient place. It was mentioned in the Mahabhasya, written by Patanjali in the 2nd century BC.

Ramanujacharya lived in Kanchipuram during his youth, and Sri Chaitanya visited here 500 years ago. Four of the Alwars—Pey Alwar, Poygai Alwar, Bhutatt Alwar, and Thirumalisai—were born within 50 miles of Kanchipuram.

Kanchipuram is famous for hand-woven silk fabrics and saris. The weavers use the highest quality silk and pure gold thread. This place is known to be the best source of high quality hand-woven silk items, and Varanasi is known to be the best place for machine-made silk items.

Orientation
The city of Kanchipuram is on the north bank of the Vegavati River. The bus stand is in the center of town on Kamaraj Street (also called Kossa St), which goes north-south through the center of the city. The railway station is in the eastern part of the town, about 2½ km from the river. The temples and hotels are scattered within about 3km of the bus station, in the center of town. Siva Kanchipuram is west of the railway station, and Vishnu Kanchipuram is about 3km southeast.

Information
The temples are well spread out across the city and you need at least four hours to see the major ones. You can have a cycle-rickshaw driver take you around to the temples for Rs 50 to Rs 100, depending on how many temples you go to see. An auto-rickshaw tour of the temple is Rs 150 to Rs 200 plus extra for waiting time.. You have to visit the temples either in the morning or late afternoon, as they are closed between 12.30 and 4 pm .

The tourist office (631-502) is at the Hotel Tamil Nadu, Kamatchi Amman Sannadhi St. The Archaeological Survey of India office is helpful. It is located opposite the Kailasanatha Temple.

The State Bank of India (22987), 16 Gandhi Rd, only accepts travelers checks. Some other banks change cash.

The Head Post Office (22080), Railway Rd, is open Mon to Fri 9 am to 5 pm.

Internet at Dishnet, 81C Kamaraja St (Hours: 9 am to 9 pm) for Rs 25 per hour.

In the summer, temperatures are between 21ºC (70ºF) and 37ºC (98ºF), and in the winter the range is 20ºC (68ºF) to 29ºC (84ºF).

Local Transportation
You can hire a taxi from KGT Travels (24179), 66D Salai St. You can hire a bicycle from the cycle shop on Sannadhi St. (outside the Varadaraja Perumal Temple) for Rs 10 per day.

Kanchipuram Temples
The city is divided into two main parts—Siva-kanchi, which is the northern suburb, and Vishnu-kanchi, which is the extreme east section of town. There is a group of Jain temples south, across the river. Kailasanatha and Vaikuntha Perumal temples were the most important temples built by the Pallavas. Varadaraja, Kamakshi, and Ekambareswara temples were originally built by the Cholas, but were added onto by the Vijayanagar and Nayaka rulers. Most of the temples are open from sunrise to 12.30 pm and from 4 pm to sunset. Many temples restrict entry to Hindus only.

There are thirteen Divya Desam temples in the area of Kanchipuram. If you visit these temples you should take into consideration that some of the less popular temples may have the same priest doing the worship at more than one temple. This means that you may come to one of these temples and it may be closed. If possible, it is best to try to find a rickshaw driver who knows what time each temple is open.

Brahma’s Yajna
It is said that once Saraswati asked her husband, Lord Brahma: “Who is greater, Lakshmi or I?” Brahma replied that Lakshmi was definitely better. Hearing this reply, Saraswati left her husband.
At this time Brahma was preparing to do a big sacrifice. When his consort, Saraswati, refused to participate in the sacrifice, Brahma began the sacrifice alone. Then in great anger, Saraswati transformed herself into the fast-flowing Vegavati River and came rushing towards the yajna (sacrifice) area. Upon Brahma’s appeal for help, Lord Vishnu laid himself across the river’s path and foiled goddess Saraswati’s efforts. She also tried to stop the yajna in other ways. At the end of the yajna, Sri Varadaraja emerged from the yajna. At Brahma’s request Lord Varadaraja agreed to stay in Kanchipuram in that form and give darshan to his devotees.

Sri Varadaraja Temple 
This is a major Vishnu temple built by the Vijayanagar kings in the 12th century. It is counted along with Tirupati and Sri Ranganatha (in Srirangam) as one of the major Vaishnava temples in South India. Varada means the “bestower of benedictions,” and raja means “king.” Thus, Varadaraja means the “king of those who give benedictions.”

There is a beautiful garden inside the walls of the temple. The Deity of Sri Perundevi Thayar goes every Friday to this garden and there is a festival there. There is a Narasimha deity when you first enter the main temple area, called Yoga Narasimha Swami.

This temple has a 30m (100 ft) high gopuram originally built in the 11th century and later renovated in the 16th century by the Vijayanagar kings. The 100 (actually 96) pillar mandapa, which has exquisite sculptures, is one of the beauties of India. Mainly avatars of Vishnu, and scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana, are carved on the pillars.

The main hall is supported by giant pillars, each carved from a different rock. There are also riders on horseback, beautiful figures of Rathi and Manmatha, and a massive chain carved out of a single stone.

The temple covers about 23 acres, which is one of the biggest areas covered by any temple in India. The temple’s outer walls are 365m (1200 ft) by 545m (1800 ft). Ananta-tirtham, the temple tank, is north of the 100 pillar mandapa hall. The temple ratha (cart) is 18m (60 ft) high. It is beautifully carved and very old.

The temple has an exquisite collection of temple jewelry that may be seen if you give a donation. One of the necklaces is said to have been given by Clive, the British Governor of the Madras Presidency. It is said that Clive came on the day of the Garuda-seva festival of Lord Varadaraja and that he presented his wife’s necklace to the priest to adorn the Lord. The necklace is known as Clive Makara­-kandi and is used to decorate Lord Varadaraja on the Garudotsavam day.

The original deity of Lord Varadaraja (Atti Varadar), who is said to have been installed by Lord Brahma himself, is in a silver casket inside the temple tank.

The deity is taken out every forty to fifty years for 45 to 48 days (some say 10 days). The last occasion was in 1979 and the next will be around 2019. The story is that Lord Brahma had Visvakarma, the architect of the demigods, make a wooden deity of Lord Varadaraja. The utsava-murti is said to have emerged from Lord Brahma’s sacrificial fire. It was felt that the wooden deity would be ruined if constantly exposed and worshiped. Therefore the deity was immersed in the temple tank, and a granite deity was installed in its place.

Ramanujacarya used to regularly come to this temple in his youth. He is said to have met the great Vaishnava acharya Alavandar for the first time in the courtyard of this temple.

The main festival is the Brahmotsava Festival in May-June, which is attended by hundreds of thousands of people. During this festival the deity is carried in procession. The main event is the Garudotsavam.

The main deity is located up a flight of stairs in the back of the main temple and is a little hard to find. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the temple, which means not into the second courtyard. Converted Hindus may be allowed to enter, but are expected to wear traditional dress and tilaka. This temple is at the southeast end of the city, near the river, just off Thirukatchinambi Koil Road. The temple is open 8 am to noon and 4 to 7 pm. There is a Rs 10 camera and Rs 50 video fee.

Sri Vaikuntha Perumal Temple
This Lord Vishnu temple was built in the late 8th century by Parameswara and Nandi Varman II. It has three sanctums, one above the other, where Lord Vishnu is standing, sitting, and reclining.
This temple has a three-storey, 20m high vimana tower over the central altar, a pillared hall, and paintings on the walls. Its sculptures depict the wars fought between the Pallavas and the Chalukyas.The outer wall has lion pillars.

This temple is not very big. It is near the corner of East Raja St and Kamakshi Amman Sannathi St, in the center of the town, 1km southwest of the railway station.

Kailasanatha Temple
Rajasimha Pallava built this sandstone temple, dedicated to Lord Siva, in the late 7th century. His son, Mahendra Varman III added the front later. It is the oldest temple in Kanchipuram. It is one of the earliest examples of Dravidian architecture and it is one of the most beautiful temples in Kanchipuram. Kailasanatha means “Lord of Mount Kailash.” It is famous for its sculptures. Most famous of these is the sculpture of Ardhanariswara, who has a vina in her hand.

There are fresco-style paintings on the inner walls of the shrine. The outer wall of the temple has 58 small shrines showing different aspects of Siva. The architecture resembles that of the Shore Temple in Mamallapuram. There is a major festival here during Siva-ratri in Feb/March.

Non-Hindus can enter the inner sanctum. Open 8 am to noon and 4 to 6 pm. It is on Putteri Street, in the western part of the city, about a km from the bus station.

Sri Ekambaranatha Temple
This temple is dedicated to Lord Siva and is the largest temple in Kanchipuram. This temple is also known as the Ekam­bareswara Temple. The Pallava kings built parts of the main temple, but the rest of the temple complex was mainly built in the 16th and 17th centuries. It has the towering 60m (188 ft) high Raja Gopuram, which was built by Krishna Deva Raya of the Vijayanagar Empire in 1509. No two towers of the temple are opposite each other, nor are the walls of the temple parallel to each other. There are almost no right angles in the temple. It has a 1,000-pillar hall (actually 540). Most of the pillars are intricately and beautifully carved.

There is a mango tree behind the inner sanctum (main temple) that is said to be 3,500 years old. It has four branches, said to represent the four Vedas (sacred Hindu scriptures). Each leaf of this tree is a different shape. The name of the deity itself is believed to have been derived thus: Eka-Amra-Natha, meaning the “Lord of the Mango Tree.” The fruit from each branch has a different taste. In the path around the tree is a Siva-linga made of 108 small lingas and another one made up of 1008 lingas. You should circle around the tree clockwise (the other way is considered inauspicious).

The huge linga is known as the Prithvi-linga, or earth linga, and is one of the five xe "element lingas" element lingas of South India. The other four are the Agni-linga (fire) at Thiruvannamalai, the Appu-linga (water) at Jambukeswara, the Vayu-linga (air) at Kalahasti, and the Akasha-linga (ether) at Chidambaram.

The story of the temple is that while Lord Siva was meditating, Parvati playfully covered his eyes for a moment. This resulted in the earth being covered with darkness for years. This angered Siva who cursed Parvati to go to earth and do severe penance. She came to earth and created the earth linga and worshiped it under a single (eka) mango tree in Kanchipuram. Siva sent different obstacles to test Parvati’s sincerity. When he sent a flood, she clasped to the linga so tightly that imprints were made on it.

It is believed that if a woman seeking a child worships here, her desire will be fulfilled. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the inner sanctum. This temple is between North Made and West Made Streets in the northwest part of the city. Open 6 am to 12.30 pm and 4 to 8 pm. There is a Rs 5 camera fee.

There is a Vishnu temple within the temple complex, which is one of the Divya Desams shrines. The Vishnu deity in this temple is named Nilathingal Thundatthan Vishnu.

Sri Kamakshi Amman Temple
This temple is dedicated to goddess Kamakshi (Parvati). Kamakshi means “one who has eyes full of love.” Just in front of Sri Kamakshi is the Sri Chakra. All worship and sacrifices are offered to the Sri Chakra. Sri Kamakshi Amman Temple is one of the three main holy places of Shakti worship in India, the other two being Varanasi and Madurai. This temple has a golden gopuram and fine carvings. It was built by the Cholas in the 14th century and the gopurams were built during the Vijayanagar period. The gopurams are painted a variety of bright colors.

The Sri Adi Varaha Perumal Temple, one of the Divya Desam temples, is located within the temple’s walls. This shrine is located to the left of the entrance to the inner sanctum (altar) of Kamakshi Amman. In the northeast part of the Pancha-ganga temple tank there is a shrine with three floors, each having a Vishnu deity in a different posture: standing, sitting, and reclining.

An annual Car Festival is held on the ninth lunar day in Feb/March and draws a large crowd. The deity is taken on procession on a magnificent, huge wooden temple cart. Normally the temple carts are kept on Gandhi Road.

On Tuesdays and Fridays at around 8 pm there is an elephant procession with fireworks and music. This temple is considered to be auspicious for marriage blessings. It is just off Odai Street, in the center of town. Open 5 am to 12.30 pm and 4 to 8.30 pm.

Sri Ulagalandar Temple
This temple is dedicated to Trivi­krama (Vamana), who is called Sri Ulagalandar, “the Lord who measured the world with his three steps.” This deity is nearly 11m (35 ft) in height. Trivikrama is another name for Lord Vamana, who begged from Bali Maharaja the amount of land that he could cover in three steps. The right foot of the deity is in a lifted position, indicating that the Lord has already covered the earth and heaven. His left foot is pressed on the head of Bali Maharaja. A lamp, fixed to a big stick, is used to enable one to get a full view of the deity.

This temple has four Divya Desams shrines in it—Peragathan (Sri Ulagalan­dar) and Ooragam (always referred to together), Neeragham, Karagham, and Karvannam shrines. The shrine of Adi Sesa, called Ooragam, is next to Ulaga­landar Perumal. Ooragam means snake. Adi Sesa is the divine snake used as a couch by the Lord. There is an annual festival here in Jan/Feb.

Sri Vijaya Raghava Temple
This Divya Desam temple is in the town of Thiruputkuli, about 7km from Kanchipuram. Vijaya Raghava means literally “Rama the Winner.”

On a hill to the east of the tank is a temple dedicated to Jatayu. The Vamana Purana says that Jatayu, who was killed by Ravana, was cremated at Thiruputkuli.

Sri Ramanuja studied under Yadhava Prakash in Thiruputkuli. There is a mandapa here where Ramanujacarya studied the advaita philosophy from Yadhava Prakash, in order to master it, so he could defeat it. Since Ramanuja kept refuting the advaita philosophy taught by Yadhava Prakash, he was expelled from the ashram.

Sri Ashtabhujam Perumal Temple
Lord Vishnu has eight hands in this Divya Desam temple. Ashta means “eight” and bhuja means “hands.” It is said that goddess Saraswati let loose an army of demons to ruin the sacrifice performed by Brahma. These demons were all killed by Lord Vishnu. She then sent Sarabha, an unnatural type of ferocious beast with eight legs. To defeat this beast Lord Vishnu assumed this form with eight arms equipped with eight weapons.

It is also said that the crocodile caught hold of the leg of Gajendra the elephant in the temple tank here. When Gajendra cried out in despair to the Lord, Vishnu came and killed the crocodile with his chakra (disc).

There is also a deity of Varaha, Lord Vishnu in his boar incarnation, in this temple. This temple is opposite the Yathoktakari Temple, about 1½ km from the Varadaraja Temple.

Pandava Dootha Perumal
This Divya Desam Vishnu temple is located by the Ekambareswara Temple. The main Vishnu deity is in a sitting posture, facing east. The huge deity is 7.5m (25 ft) high, to signify the Viswarupa (universal) form of the Lord. It is said that Janamejaya, the great-grandson of Arjuna, performed penance here to get the darshan of Lord Krishna in his form as an envoy (representative) of the Pandavas to the Kauravas, before the Kurukshetra war.

Sri Deepa Prakasa Temple
In this temple the presiding deity of Lord Vishnu is named Sri Deepa Prakasa, which means the “luster of the lamp.” It is said that Lord Vishnu is known as Deepa Prakasa, because he intercepted and made a lamp out of the fire that goddess Saraswati started in order to burn the sacrificial site, where Lord Brahma was performing an Asvamedha sacrifice. Another story says that Lord Vishnu appeared as a big light to dispel the darkness that Saraswati created to spoil the sacrifice.

This is the birthplace of Sri Vedanta Desika, a great acarya and author in the Ramanuja-sampradaya. By the shrine of Deepa Prakasa, there is a shrine dedicated to Sri Desika, near the place where he was born.

This temple is located about half a km west of Sri Ashtabhujam Perumal Temple.

Sri Yathoktakari Temple
In this temple, Lord Vishnu, called Lord Bhujagasayana, is in a lying posture. The main deity is known as Lord Yathoktakari, because he accepted the request of Tirumalisai Alwar, his devotee, to get up, follow him out of Kanchipuram, and again return and lie down. Yathokta means “as requested” and kari means “a person who did it.”

Sri Alagiyasingar Temple
Lord Vishnu is known here as Mukunda Nayaka. It is said that Lord Vishnu took the form of Narasimha and fought with the demon Kapalika to save Brahma’s yajna. This temple is about half a km from the Deepa Prakasa Temple.

Sankaramandam Math
Kanchipuram is one of the four main seats of the followers of Sankaracharya. The present Acharya (the 69th) is highly revered all over India. Located here is the samadhi of the 68th Acarya, the highly respected Sri Chandrasekharendra Sarasvati Swami, who left his body in January 1994, at the age of 100. This is a peaceful place.

Shopping
Kanchipuram is famous for its silk products. The silk saris are hand-woven and some take two weeks to complete. Some have borders made of pure gold or silver. There are several shops on the road to the Sri Varadaraja Temple. Even though silk saris are produced here, because of the many tourists that come here, the prices are often higher than in Chennai. To get a decent price you have to take your time and bargain hard.

Nalli Silks, 54 Nellukkara Street, is one of the biggest silk shops and has a good reputation. Kamatchi Co-optex, 182 Gandhi Rd; Srinivas and Co, 135 TK Nambi St; Srinivasan Silk House, 17 TK Nambi St; Thiruvallur Co-perative Society, 207 Gandhi Rd; and Murudan, on Railway Rd, have good names for silk items. Sri Swami Silks, 116 TK Nambi St, has a good selection of silk goods.

You can see saris being made at Handlooms Weavers Service Centre, at 20 Railway Station Rd, by the post office. They can give you sound shopping advice. Open only on weekdays.

Where to Stay
Ashok Travellers Lodge, near the railway station, is a basic, cheap place.
Rajam Lodge (22519), 9 Kamarajar St, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 100/120.
Raja’s Lodge (22603), 20 Nellukkara St, near the bus station, has basic rooms for Rs 100/140 and with A/C for Rs 450. It is not very clean, but it is adequate.
Sri Rama Lodge (22435), next door at 21 Nellukkara St, has basic rooms with hot water for Rs 100/150 and Rs 300/400 for a room with A/C. It is better than the other budget places. Some rooms have a small TV. It has a good, cheap vegetarian restaurant.
Sree Kusal Lodge (223342), 68C Nellukkara St, has clean rooms for Rs 155/275 and Rs 500 with A/C, hot water and TV. It is one of the better cheaper places.
Sri Krishna Lodge (22831), 68-A Nellukkara St, across the street, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 100/140. The sheets may be dirty.
Hotel Jayabala International (224348), 504 Gandhi Rd, has basic singles with common bath for Rs 250. The clean doubles are much nicer and go for Rs 425/600 and Rs 700/750 for an A/C room. It is conveniently located, but can be noisy. It has a good veg South Indian restaurant.
A good place to stay is the Hotel Tamil Nadu (22553; fax 22552), Kamatchi Sannathi St, near the railway station. Normal rooms are Rs 550 and comfortable A/C rooms cost Rs 600 and Rs 750. The rooms have hot water, and are good-sized and clean. It is full most of the time, so it is best to book a room in advance at a Hotel Tamil Nadu in another city.
The best place in town is the modern Hotel Baboo Soorya (222555' fax 22556), 85 East Raja Veethi, which has comfortable, clean rooms with Star TV for Rs 400/600 to Rs 700/800. There is a 20% luxury tax. It is a recommended place with a good vegetarian restaurant. They accept some credit cards.

Where to Eat
Near the bus stand there are several cheap vegetarian places with thali meals for Rs 20.

One of the best places in town is the restaurant at the Hotel Baboo Soorya, 85 East Raja St. which serves South and North Indian vegetarian food.
Hotel Saravana Bhavan, inside Jaibala International, has good South Indian food, such as masala dosas (Rs 15). It also has ice cream.
Sri Saravana, 546 Gandhi Rd, has good cheap South Indian food, and quick service.
Abirami, Kamaraj St, does not look like such a nice place, but the food is decent.
Srinivasa Vilas, 98 Kamaraj St, serves cheap South Indian thalis.
Rama Lodge has a cheap vegetarian restaurant, with good dosas.
Sri Vela, Railway Station Rd, is a good South Indian place.

Local Travel
A bike-rickshaw tour of the five major temples should be about Rs 75, but you will be asked for Rs 150 or more. The temples are too far apart to walk from one to another.

You can rent a bicycle for Rs 6per hour (Rs 45 for a day) at stalls near the bus station, or at the bicycle shop on Sannadhi St, just outside the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.

KGT Travels
(222-4179), 66D Salai St, can arrange a taxi.

Travel
Air  
The nearest airport is in Chennai, 71km northeast.

Rail From Chennai Beach Station one has to go via Chingleput (Chengalpattu). There are three trains that go to Kanchipuram from Chingleput at 8.20 am, 5.30 pm and 8 pm. The trains going back to Chingleput leave Kanchi between 6 and 8.30 am and at 6 pm. To go by train to Chennai takes about twice as long as the bus. From Chennai you can go to Kanchipuram by first going to Arakkonam (Arakonam) from Chennai Egmore Station on the Chennai to Bangalore line. There are only two connections between Arak­konam to Kanchipuram—at 7.50 am and 5.20 pm and from Kanchipuram to Arakkonam at 9.30 am and 6.45 pm.

Bus There are regular buses to and from Chennai (2 hr, #828 or #76B), Tirupati (3 hr), Tiruttani, and Vellore (2½ hr). There are five direct buses a day to Mamallapuram (2 hr, #212A). There are many buses to Chingleput (Chengalpattu, 1 hr), and from there you can get another bus to Mamallapuram. There are direct buses to Bangalore, Tiruchirappalli (Srirangam, 7 hr), and Pondicherry (3 hr).

There are buses that go directly to Tirupati. There are also buses to a small town near Tirupati, and then you have to get another bus for another 20-minute ride.

The bus stand is on the corner of Nellukkara St and Kamaraj St, in the center of town. Public buses from Chennai depart from Parry’s Corner by the Law Court.

Others A convenient way to get to Kanchipuram is to get a tourist taxi from Chennai, which should be around Rs 1200 roundtrip plus driving around in Kanchi. Both ITDC and TTDC operate daily conducted tours from Chennai to Tirukkalukundram, Kanchipuram, and Mamallapuram. This tour is rushed.

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Vegetarian Books
Vegan Cookbooks
Vegetarian Cookbooks
Restaurant Cookbooks
Raw Food Book

VEG COSMETIC
Eyeshadows & Liners
Nail Polish
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Lip Stick
Mascara
Powders
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VEDIC & SPIRITUAL
Mandala Publishers
OM Jewelry
Krishna Photos
Radha & Krishna Dolls

JEWELRY
Anklets
OM Jewelry
Nose Rings & Studs
Toe Rings
Astrological Gems
Earrings
Pendants
Silver Tulasi Beads
Neckbeads
Necklaces
Silver Jewelry
Gold Jewelry

BUTTONS STICKER
Animal Rights Buttons
Vegan Patch
Jam Bands Stickers
Jam Band Stickers (20 stickers for $5)

SPIRITUAL BOOKS
All Books
Holy Places
Vedic Scriptures
Mandala Publishing
Art Books
Kurma Cook Books
Bhagavat Gita
Caitanya Mahaprabhu
Children
Srimad Bhagvatam
Spiritual Biography
Vedic Coloring Books

SPIRITUAL MUCIC
Bhajans
S. Prabhupada Bhajans
Kirtana
New Age
Musical Instruments
Spiritual Lessons
Audio Vedic Books


VEGETARIAN VIDEO
Vegetarian Cooking
Vegetarian

SPIRTUAL VIDEO
Devotional Movies
Interactive CDs
Vedic Puppet Shows
Vedic Art & Culture
Indian Music Lessons
Bhativedanta Swami Prabhupada

Spiritual Photos & Art
Krishna Posters
Krishna Pictures
Vedic Gods Photos
Vedic Gods Posters

OTHER PRODUCTS
Putumayo World Music
Pet Products
Outdoor Neem
Air Garcia T-shirt

Bob Marley Reggae
Hats
Shirts
Key Chains
License Plates
Scarves
Books

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