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Shekhawati
is an interesting area of towns within the triangle of Jaipur, Delhi,
and Bikaner. These towns are famous for the beautifully designed, carved,
and painted haveli houses. Most of the havelis were built from the 18th
to the early 1900s. Around the 15th century, several important trading
posts were established in this area, and many of the merchants became
quite wealthy. In the middle of the 19th century, the merchants took
the protection of the British and the Maharajas of Jaipur and Bikaner.
Peace came to the area and the merchants felt safe to build their havelis.
Many of them spent their riches in building truly outstanding houses.
There are also interesting forts, step-wells, cenotaphs, and mosques.
The
main towns in this area are Jhunjhunu, Fatehpur, Ramgarh, Nawalgarh,
and Mandawa. You can just wander through these towns and see no shortage
of interesting sites. These places are not yet so popular with tourists.
The
Painted Towns of Shekhawati, by Ilay Cooper, gives
a detailed account of the towns, buildings, and history of the area.
It has some maps of the larger towns.
It
is usually better to get around by bus because the trains are slow and
run infrequently. Another good way to get around is by taxi (Rs 4 per
km). Jeeps are usually available near the railway stations in Sikar,
Jhunjhunu, and Mukundgarh.
You
can also take a three-day, two-night tour of this area from Jaipur,
which can be arranged through travel agent there. The cost of a vehicle
is around Rs 3000 to Rs 4000.
Havelis
Havelis are magnificent mansions that usually have colorful paintings
on the walls and often have intricate carvings. Many of the havelis
have wooden gates (often intricately carved) leading into a small courtyard.
That courtyard then leads into a larger courtyard. Some havelis have
four large courtyards. The main highlight of many havelis is the outstanding
murals painted on the outside and inside walls. Paintings may be decorated
with gold or silver leaf and can be decorated with small mirror. Many
of the paintings depict Krishna’s pastimes, as many people in
this area are devotees of Krishna.
Most
of the havelis are privately owned and are not open to the public. The
owners may not appreciate someone rushing into their house, uninvited.
When you enter the inner courtyard, you are supposed to remove your
shoes.
Sikar
Pop: 155,000 Area Code: 01572
Located
here are interesting painted temples, step-wells, and a clock tower.
The New Palace has interesting paintings, including
one of a map of the town in the Sheeh Mahal hall. The
Deen Dayal Biyani (around 1900), Somani, and Murarka
havelis are interesting. There are carvings in the Gopinath
and Madana-Mohan temples.
Danta
Dera Kila (89362), built in the 18th century, has rooms for
Rs 1100/1250. They can pick you up at the railway stations in the area.
You can reserve it with Dundlod House (0141 366-276), Civil Lines, Jaipur
302019.
There
are regular buses to Jaipur, Fatehpur and Nawalgarh, and also buses
to Delhi, Bikaner and Ajmer. There are trains to Jaipur (3 hr, 4 daily),
Fatehpur (1½ hr), Jhunjhunu (2 hr), Nawalgarh (50 min) and Churu
(3 hr, 3 daily).
Fatehpur
One of the most interesting havelis is the Goenka Haveli
(1870), which has excellent paintings on the walls, including several
depicting Krishna’s pastimes. The main highlight is the painted
ceiling in an upstairs room. You get to this haveli by taking the main
road north from the bus stand, and then you turn left at the main intersection.
The house to the left of the Goenka Haveli has nice
mirrorwork.
Nand
Lal Devra Haveli has an interesting painted ceiling as you
enter the house and nice paintings on the courtyard walls. There is
a 17th century baori (step-well) near the bus stand. Also good are Singhania
(1880) and Saraogi havelis.
Kedia
Guest House (01571 231088), near the bus stand, has cheap,
basic, clean rooms.
RTDC Hotel Haveli (01571 230293), south part of town,
has rooms for Rs 350/450 and Rs 700/800 with A/C. It has a restaurant.
They can arrange a taxi to visit the other towns in the area.
There are regular buses to Jaipur (3 hr, over 20 daily), Bikaner (5½
hr, 15 daily), Jhunjhunu (30 min) and Mandawa.
Jhunjhunu
Area Code: 0159
This
nice, peaceful town has many beautifully painted havelis.
Located
here is the Khetri Mahal (1765), a minor palace, which
is definitely worth seeing. There is a good view from the roof. The
Bihariji Temple (1775) has nice paintings from the Ramayana
on it.
The
Modi Haveli (1895) in the main bazaar is considered
to have some of the best paintings in the Shekhawati area. There are
paintings of maharajas and many of Krishna’s pastimes. The Tibrewala
Haveli (1883) in the main bazaar has many murals on it and
colored glass windows.
There are also step-wells, including Mertani Bawri, in the north of
town, which is one of the best step-wells in the Shekhawati area.
Jhunjhunu
is a good place at which to base oneself while exploring the area because
of the good accommodations and travel facilities.
The
Tourist Office (723-2909) is in the Hotel Shiv Shekhawati
(Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm, except the 2nd Sat in the month). It has
maps of many of the main towns in Shekhawati.
Where to Stay
Hotel Kulhari, near the bus stand, has fairly basic
rooms with bath for Rs 155/275.
Hotel Sangam (723-2544), near the bus stand, has clean
good-size rooms with bath for Rs 175/225 and air-cooled rooms with hot
water for Rs 250/400. Singles with common bath are Rs 125.
Hotel Shiv Shekhawati (723-2651; Web Site:http://www.shivshekhawati.com),
on the eastern side of town, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs
175/225, Rs 450/500 with air-cooling and bath, and Rs 850 with A/C.
The owner knows the Shekhawati area well. It has good vegetarian food.
It is a popular place and is recommended.
Hotel
Januma Resort (723-2871; fax 723-4070) has comfortable, traditionally
designed rooms for Rs 1000/1100. It has a pool (for non-guest Rs 75)
and a good outdoor restaurant.
Travel
The main bus stand in the south of town has regular buses to all over
Shekhawati, and also to Jaipur (5 hr, every half-hour), Bikaner (5½
hr, 4 daily) and Delhi. Buses also depart from the private bus stand,
east of the main bazaar.
There are four trains to Sikar via Nawalgarh, three to Jaipur and one
to Delhi.
Nawalgarh
Phone Code: 0159
Located
here is an interesting Fort (1737) built by Thakur
Nawal Singh. Just after entering the south gate called Nansa
Gate (now named Ramilas Poddar Gate), make a left and you will
come to Aath Haveli, which is seven havelis together,
covered in paintings. The Hotel Raj Hans Restaurant
has the impressive Sheeh Mahal (Mirror Hall), which
among its ceiling paintings has a painting of maps of Nawalgarh and
Jaipur (Rs 10).
Poddar
Haveli built in the 1920s (east past Poddar Gate) is very well
restored. Admission Rs 50. Open 8 am to 7:30 pm
Some
other good havelis are Bhagton
ki Haveli, Goenka Haveli, Khedwal Bhavan, and the Hem Raj Kulwal Haveli.
The Ganga Mai Temple, near Nansa Gate, is also interesting.
Where
to Stay
Natraj Hotel, near the entrance to the fort, has really basic rooms
with common bath for Rs 100/140.
Nawal Hotel (742-3875), Mandawa Rd, near the bus stand,
has budget rooms with common bath and rooms with bath.
Jangid (742-4060;;
fax 742-4061
), behind the hospital, is a quiet, friendly mid-range place with rooms
for Rs 300/400. Has a good vegetarian restaurant. Grows own organic
vegetables.. It is well-managed.
Apani Dhani (742-2239; fax
742-2129; Web Site http://www.apanidhani.com),
on the main road to Jaipur, 1km from railway station, has huts designed
in the local style with bath for Rs 800/900. It has a good veg restaurant.
Roop Niwas Palace (742-4152; fax 742-3388), about one
km from the fort, has comfortable rooms with air-cooling and bath for
Rs 2100/2500. You can get camel and horse rides here. It was the former
house of the Thakur of Nawalgarh and has a nice garden, a pool, and
billiards. See a few rooms, as some are better than others.
Travel
The bus stand is 2km west of town. Buses go to Jhunjhunu (1½
hr, every half-hour) via Dundlod (20 min), Sikar (1 hr, every half-hour),
Jaipur (4 hr, every half-hour) and Ajmer (5 hr, 1 daily). There are
shared jeeps to towns in the area. The railway station is 2½
km west of town. There are four trains a day to Jhunjhunu and Sikar,
three to Jaipur, and one to Delhi.
Mukundgarh
Mukundgarh has a 300-year-old fort, now used as a hotel.
The Ganeriwala, Jhunjhunwala and Kanoria
havelis are interesting.
Mukundgarh
Fort Heritage Hotel (reserve in Delhi 011 685-0451) has rooms
for Rs 1700/2400. It has interesting paintings on it. It has a pool
and restaurant, and stages puppet shows.
Dundlod
There is a Fort (built 1750) here with a Diwan-i-khas
(Private Audience Hall) with stained glass windows and good paintings.
Nearby are the family chhatris, which to enter you have to ask at the
fort.
Good
havelis are Jagathia Haveli and Goenka Haveli,
which has three painted courtyards. There is also the interesting Satyanarayan
Vishnu Temple.
Dera
Dundlod Kila (0159 745-2519; Jaipur 0141 221-2576) has comfortable
rooms with baths and hot water for Rs 900/1000. They can arrange good
jeep, camel or horse safaris. As the rooms are all different, it is
best to see a few. It has a splendid Diwan-i-khas and some rooms have
good paintings on the walls. It has a good restaurant.
Castle
Hotel (0141 361-611; fax 373-318), in the center of the town,
is a Heritage Hotel.
There are regular buses and jeeps to Nawalgarh (15 min) and Jhunjhunu
(1 hr).
Mandawa
Mandawa, established in the 18th century, is a nice town with several
excellent havelis. The Fort above the town is now a hotel with a small
museum and nice paintings. There is a good view of the countryside from
the fort.
The
Gulab Rai Haveli (1875) has some of the best murals
in Shekhawati on both the exterior and interior walls. The Binsidhar
Newatia Haveli, next to the State Bank of Bikaner, has interesting
paintings of people using 20th century inventions.
Goenka
Haveli in the west part of town, and the Nanda Lal
Murmuria Haveli next door, have interesting paintings.
Where
to Stay
Lakshminarayan Ladia Haveli has really basic rooms
for between Rs 60 and Rs 120.
Rath, on the east side of town, has basic rooms. Hotel
Heritage Mandawa (01592 23243), near the bus stand, is an old haveli
with rooms for Rs 350/450. A good place.
Desert Resort (01592 23245 fax 23151; http://www.mandawahotels.com),
south of town, on the road to Nawalgarh, has very nice modern rooms
for Rs 1250/1450 and Rs 1400/1850 with A/C. It is designed like a traditional
village with clay-covered huts. It has a pool and a garden. Really nice
place.
Hotel Castle Mandawa (0159 7223124; fax 772-3171; Web
Site: http://www.castlemandawa.com)
has well-decorated rooms with traditional furniture for Rs 1800/2000
and deluxe rooms for Rs 2200/2700. The royal sutie is Rs 6500. Some
of the rooms have their original murals. Some of the rooms are nicer
then others, so it pays to see a few. It has a restaurant with a dinner
buffet for Rs 300. They can arrange expensive camel rides. Recommended.
It is the best hotel in Shekhawati. It can be booked through Hotel
Castle Mandawa in Jaipur (0141 38906; fax 382-214).
Lakshmangarh
Some interesting havelis here are the Shyonarayan Kyal Haveli, Rathi
Family Haveli, and the Char Chowk Haveli (private). On a hill overlooking
the city is a Fort built during the 19th century, from
which you can get a good view of the area.
Ramgarh
In the 19th century this was one of the richest towns in the area. Some
good havelis are Poddar Haveli and Ram Gopal
Poddar Chhatri near the bus stand. This town is 20km south
of Fatehpur. The Shani Temple, in the northwest part
of town, has good mirrorwork.
Mahansar
The Poddar Haveli, Raghunath Temple
and the Rama Temple, which has the interesting Golden
Room, are interesting.
Narayan
Niwas Castle (0159 756-4322; reserve in Delhi 011 264-6807,
011 688-6909; 011 688-6122) is an interesting hotel in the old fort
with rooms for Rs 1100/1400. Some rooms are better than other so it
pays to see a few. Serves good meals. Also has a couple of inexpensive
rooms. Has atmosphere.
Churu
There are nice painted temples here. Kanhaiyal Bagla Haveli
(1870), west of the central square, and the six-storey Surana
Haveli, are especially interesting.
The
dharamshala (01562 5024) next to the Ram Mandir (temple), 1km from the
railway station, is a good cheap place to stay. Rajend Restaurant, across
from the railway station, has cheap thalis.
Churu is on the Delhi to Bikaner and Jaipur to Bikaner train lines.
There are trains to Delhi (6 hr, 3 daily), Bikaner (4 hr, 4 daily),
Jaipur (5½ hr, 3 daily) and Sawai Madhopur (9½ hr, 1 daily).
There are buses to Jaipur (every half-hour), Fatehpur
(hourly), Jodhpur (3 daily), Alwar (2 daily), Delhi (3 daily) and Bikaner
(4 daily).
Bissau
Bissau, 15km northwest of Jhunjhunu, has a Fort and
the Chhatri of Hammir Singh, which has paintings on
it. Some interesting havelis are Tibriwalla, Kedla, Jhunjhunuwala, Kedia
and Khemka havelis.
If you know of
a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update
our listings, please e-mail us at:
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