Pushkar Brahma Rajasthan

Pushkar is an important holy place that has over 400 temples. It is a small, mellow town with little vehicle traffic on the main street. Some of the important temples are dedicated to Brahma, Raghunath (Vishnu), Varaha, Savitri, and Gayatri. It is a pleasant, hassle-free place, which is a nice place to relax for a while. It is worth a visit. It has a good shopping bazaar that caters to foreign tourists. Many people come here just to shop. Pushkar is famous for its Camel Fair, which takes place in Oct/Nov. Alcohol, eggs and meat are banned. Pushkar is on the edge of the Rajasthan desert, 10km northwest of Ajmer, 400km southwest of Delhi, and 145km southwest of Jaipur.

It is said that Lord Brahma’s lotus flower fell in three separate places in the Pushkar area, and that water came from the ground at each place. The three places are located within a radius of six miles. Senior Pushkar, where the hotels are located, is considered the most holy, because the lotus fell here first. Middle Pushkar is 3km down the road and has a small Hanuman temple and a 200-year-old banyan tree. New (Junior) Pushkar, 3km further north, has a small Krishna temple. As Brahma threw the pushpa (flower) with his kar (hand), so the place received the name Pushkar.

In the Mahabharata it is said concerning Pushkar: “The holy place of Lord Vishnu, Pushkar-tirtha, renowned in the three worlds, is situated on this earth. Fortunate souls can enter that place. O son of the Kuru dynasty, at Pushkar-tirtha billions of tirthas (holy places) gather at daybreak and sunset. Simply taking a bath at Pushkar-tirtha destroys sins of both men and women, including the sin that caused their birth. As Madhusudana (Krishna) is the original God, so Pushkar is the original tirtha.”

It is believed that to bathe in Pushkar Lake on Kartika Purnim (full moon day in Oct/Nov) gives one salvation. The full benefit of taking bath in Pushkar Lake is said to be available during the last five days of the month of Kartika. Those who take bath at this time are said to be relieved of all sins and promoted to heaven when they leave their bodies. It is said to be especially auspicious to do parikrama (circumabulation) of the three Pushkars (16km) on Kartika Purnim. Gaya Kund, near Junior Pushkar, is where people do puja (worship) for the salvation of their ancestors.

Story of Pushkar
It is said that while Lord Brahma was passing this spot he dropped a lotus flower. From the places where the petals fell, water sprang up and lakes were formed. There is a rectangular lake in Pushkar surrounded by temples. According to the Padma Purana, Brahma, the lord of creation, killed a demon with a lotus flower in this place. The lotus was dropped to kill the demon. Petals fell in three spots, thus forming the three lakes.

Brahma wanted to perform a yajna (sacrifice) on the full moon day in Kartika (Oct/Nov), and he was in search of a suitable place to perform the yajna. The lotus from his hand fell down, rebounded, and fell at three places, from where water sprang. Thus Brahma decided to perform the yajna at Pushkar. The yajna, however, could not be performed without his wife, Savitri, by his side, and she was late. Brahma therefore had to request Indra to arrange a marriage for him so that he could fulfill the religious obligations. The priest manifested a daughter called Gayatri. Because she was an untouchable, she was put into the mouth of a cow and removed from the other end, which totally purified her. Gaya means “cow” and tri means “passed through.” When Savitri arrived, she saw that Brahma had married without her permission, so she cursed him that he would be worshiped only at Pushkar.

Enraged, Savitri went and established a temple on top of Rathkagir, the hill a little south of Pushkar. It is said to be due to Savitri’s curse that Brahma is worshiped almost exclusively at Pushkar.

Information
There is an unofficial curfew at 11 pm. All the shops are supposed to be closed, and the police expect Westerners to be off the street at this time.

The Tourist Information Centre is at the Hotel Sarovar. Open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, closed 2nd and 4th Saturday of Monday.

The owner of the Pushkar Hotel is full of information, which is a good reason to stay there.

The State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur, in the main bazaar, changes money. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 10 to 12 noon.

Many people will ask you to change money on the black, often at a rate less than the official rate. Kamal & Company changes money and gives an exchange certificate. They change money at around the bank rate quickly and efficiently, unlike the State Bank of Bikaner & Jaipur. They may charge a commission for the transfer so you should ask about this.

The GPO post office is near the Marwar bus stand at the end of town. There is a small post office in the Main Bazaar, near the lake. There are several places to rent a bicycle near the Pushkar bus stand and the Hotel Oasis.

There are several places where you can send and receive email for Rs 30 to Rs 50 per hour, but there is often a problem with connections and speed. Vacation Network (Rs 30 per hr) has a fairly good connection. Kamal & Company and the Internet Office, which are both in the main bazaar near Varaha Ghat.

Many travel agencies offer camel rides and camel safaris. Ram’s Camel Adventures, by the Pushkar Palace Hotel, runs good camel and jeep trips. You can get a camel ride for about Rs 50 per hour.

The Government Hospital, near the Marwar bus stand, is most likely the best in town.

Saraswati Music School (277-3124), Mainon Ka Chowk (10 am to 10 pm) gives lessons on classical tabla, flute and singing. They also sells instruments.

Ganesh Enterprises, Sadat Bazaar Rd, is a good place to process film. It is also a bookshop.

Navjyoti Tailors (277-2589), across from the Lake View Hotel, is a good tailor.

A good place to watch the sunset is on the bank of the lake near the Sunset Café and Pushkar Palace Hotel or from the Savitri Temple on top of the hill just south of town.

Temples
The Brahma Temple has a red tower and a hans (swan), Lord Brahma’s carrier, over the doorway. In the temple there is a deity of four-headed Brahma with Gayatri on the left and Savitri on the right. There are also deities of Indra, god of heaven, and Kubera, god of wealth, in the temple. This is one of the few Brahma temples in India.

The Varaha Temple has a beautiful, 2/3m (2 ft) high white Deity of Lord Varaha. Lord Varaha is said to have appeared in Pushkar. The original temple was built in the 12th century. Anyone can enter the temple. It is said that persons who visit the Pap Mochini Temple, north of town, becomes free of the sin of killing a Brahmin.

There are two Raghunath temples in Pushkar, the old and the new one. The Deities in the New Raghunath Temple are Vaikunthanath and Lakshmi. The Deities in the Old Raghunath Temple, built in 1823, are Venugopal, Narasimha, and Lakshmi. In India, I saw many signs saying, “Non-Hindus not allowed” at the temples, but these temples had signs that said, “Foreigners not allowed.” It is strictly enforced.

The Savitri Temple, on top of a hill a little outside town, is dedicated to Brahma’s wife. The temple dates back 2,000 years. It is a difficult one-hour climb up a 4th century stairway to reach the temple. From the top of the hill there is a great view of the surrounding countryside. It is a good place to watch the sunset.

On the other side of town by the Marwar bus stand is the Gayatri Temple, who is the wife that sat in on Lord Brahma’s sacrifice when Savitri, his first wife, was late. To get to the Gayatri Temple, you walk to the temple directly behind the bus stand. From there, a path leads to the stairs to the top of the hill. Both this temple and the Savitri Temple are open in the morning and in the late afternoon.

Pushkar Lake
This sacred lake is said to have been created by Lord Brahma. It is said that one who bathes in Pushkar Lake will go to heaven and will not have to take birth again in the material world. The full benefit of bathing in the lake is during the last five days of the month of Kartika (Oct/Nov), especially on the full moon day. This is the same time as the Pushkar Camel Festival.

If you do not want to take a full bath in the lake you can also put three drops of water on your head.

It has fifty-two ghats. Varaha, Brahma, and Gau Ghats are the most important. At Varaha Ghat, Lord Vishnu is said to have appeared in his boar incarnation. Gau Ghat is considered the main ghat. This is where the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Shri Lal Bahadur Shastri were placed into the lake. It is said that Brahma worshiped at Brahma Ghat.

It is said that the sacred River Saraswati begins again at Pushkar Lake, after it disappears at Vinasana near Kurukshetra. It is said that Lord Rama bathed in this lake.

When you go to one of the ghats on the bank of the lake, you will be approached by a priest to do puja (worship) for yourself and relatives. They will then ask you for a donation and then tie a red string around you wrist called a “Pushkar Passport.” This means that you can go down to the ghats and not be bothered again for a donation by the Pushkar priests who stay around the ghats.

You are expected to show respect near the lake, and the locals do not tolerate disrespect. Photography is prohibited at the ghats, as is walking too close to the lake with your shoes on. You should not smoke near the lake.

Nag (Yajna) Hill
Nag Hill is said to be one of the oldest hills in the world. It is the long hill that is a km south of Pushkar. You cross Nag Hill while going from Ajmer to Pushkar.

Its height is said to have been ten-crore yojanas in Satya-yuga, ten-lakh yojanas in Treta-yuga, and ten-thousand yojanas in Dwapura-yuga. A yojana is 13km (8 miles). In Kali-yuga its height is decreasing day by day because it is sinking into the earth. By the end of Kali Yuga it will almost disappear. It is said that if you visit this hill on your pilgrimage to Pushkar you will not have any interference or difficulties.

On this hill is Nag Kund. The story of this hill is that on the second day of Brahma’s sacrifice, Rishi Chyavan cursed Vatu, the grandson of Brahma, to become a snake, because he released a snake at the sacrifice that coiled around Bhrigu Muni, Rishi Chyavan’s father. After Vatu begged for forgiveness, Brahma blessed him to live near this natural kund (lake) on Nag Hill. Vatu performed austerities here. People who worship here on the fifth day in Krishna Paksha of Sravana (July/Aug) are said to have their desires fulfilled. Agastya Muni’s residence is said to be a cave on Nag Hill.

Camel Festival
This well-attended, interesting festival takes place around the full moon day (purnim) of Kartika (Oct-Nov). About 200,000 people (around 15,000 foreigners) come to the fair, along with 30,000 camels, cows, and buffaloes. There are camel races, parades, performances, folk dancers, magicians, jugglers, acrobats, and camel rides. There are many places selling a wide assortment of handicrafts. Many tribal people come to the festival dressed in their brightly colored clothes.
The nightly cultural program at the RTDC Tourist Village has various folk dance and musical performances. It is worth seeing.

The reason why many of the people come during this time is because it is considered a very auspicious time to bath in the Pushkar Lake, especially on the full moon day. They are not just coming to see the camels.

Women by themselves should be careful about going into crowded situations during the festival, as men have a bad habit of heavily groping (touching) women, especially at night.

Considering the potential of this event, it is poorly organized. For example, many people come to see the camel races, but it is difficult to tell when they start or end. It is very crowded during the festival, which may be interesting for a few days, but can get to you after a while. Room rates go up in the hotel from five to tens times the normal price. Many people I meant were disappointed in the festival and actually like Pushkar much more after it was over. Still, even after considering the downside of the festival, I am glad I went to it and I enjoyed it.

Shopping
Pushkar has one of the best shopping bazaars in India. There are hundreds of shops selling clothing, jewelry, incense, oil, books, music tapes and much more. Most of the items sold are low end products and the prices are some of the best in India. Many people spend a day or two shopping.

You should bargain hard, especially for clothing and jewelry. You can be quoted five times the correct price at first.

There are several music shops here that have a good selection of classical Indian music and the latest Western music.

There are several used bookshops here, which have books in various languages. They will often buy used books for up to 50% of what you paid for them.

So-called silver in Pushkar is often 60% copper. Most of the times antique silver is only a month old and just made to look old. This does not mean you should not get the jewelry, but you should bargain accordingly.

Where to Stay
It can sometimes be hard to find a room, especially later in the day. Most of the hotels are nothing special, but they are usually clean. Often the most popular places to stay have a pool, which can be a real added plus. Even if you don’t swim in the pool, it is a pleasant place to hang out.

Rooms in the same hotel often vary considerably in design, so it is best to ask to see an assortment of rooms. Rooms are usually pretty basic. Mosquitoes can also be a problem, especially with the hotels by the lake.

Hotel prices are greatly increased during the Camel Fair and it can be difficult to find a room (especially a higher-end room). A room that is normally Rs 100 could be Rs 1000 during the Camel Fair. You should expect to pay 10 times the listed prices below during the Camel Fair. When I arrived on the first day of the festival several people approached me with a basic room to rent, so it is possible to get a room without reserving one in advance. The price of the rooms during the Camel Fair return to normal the day after the full moon (the last day), so don’t be tricked into paying a higher price after this date.

Where to Stay—Lower
Hotel Om (277-2143), Ajmer Rd, has decent rooms starting at Rs 125/150 with commom bath and Rs 200/250 with bath. It has a pool about the size of a large bathtub which is usually very dirty (Rs 50 for nonresident, free if you eat in restaurant). The restaurant serves pizzas
Hotel Venus (72323) has rooms with bath for Rs 175.
VK Tourist Palace (72174) has rooms with common bath for Rs 150/200 and Rs 200/300 with bath. It is a well-managed place.
Hotel Poornima (72254) has rooms built around a courtyard with bath for Rs 150/170. It is a nice place.
Sai Baba Guest House has really basic rooms with common bath for Rs 70.
Prince Hotel, close by, has quiet rooms with common bath for Rs 90/125 and Rs 175 with bath.
Mount View Hotel (72802) has fairly good rooms with hot water for Rs 200. It can be noisy because it is in the main bazaar.
Bharatpur Palace (277-2320), Brahma Mandir Rd, next to the lake, has basic rooms for Rs 150/250 to Rs 500. There is a great view of the lake from the roof. Some rooms have lake veiws. Recommended. It is a laid back and peaceful place.
Konika Guest House has clean rooms with bath for Rs 150.
Shri Anand Guest House has rooms for Rs 90/125 with common bath and Rs 100/175 with bath.
Hotel Paramount (2772428; fax 277-2244) has rooms with common bath for Rs 125/175 and Rs 250 to Rs 550 with bath. There is a good view of the lake from this place.
Lake View Hotel (277-2106; fax: 277-2106), Main Bazaar, is a really basic place with a good location, right off the main road by the lake, with rooms with common bath for Rs 150/200 to Rs 350.
Payal Guest House, in the middle of the main bazaar, has very basic rooms with bath for Rs 100/125 and with common bath for Rs 100.
Hotel White House (277-2147; fax 277-3370; near the Marwar bus stand, Web Site:http://www.pushkarwhitehouse.com:), about a five minute walk from the Marwar bus stand, has very small rooms with a common bath for Rs 200/250 and larger doubles with bath from Rs 400 to Rs 600. It is clean and the management is helpful. The restaurant here is good.
Across the street from the Marwar Bus Stand in the north part of town is the Hotel Brahma, which has rooms for Rs 90/125 with common bath and Rs 200 with bath. It can be a little noisy, because it is on the main road.
Amar Hotel, in the center of town, away from the main road, is a good place with a garden. Rooms with common bath are Rs 90/120 and with bath Rs 150. The double rooms with bath in the back building are one of the best deals in Pushkar.
Mayur Guest House (277-2302; Email: mayurguesthouse@hotmail.com) has rooms with common bath for Rs 70/100 and with bath for Rs 150/175. Nice atmosphere.
Everest Guest House (72080) is a clean place that has small, basic rooms with bath for Rs 120/140 and rooms with common bath for Rs 80/100. This place has hot water.
Hotel Navratan Palace (277-2145; fax 277-2225), near the Brahma Temple, is a good value having rooms with bath for Rs 300/350. This hotel has a good-sized pool. The place is somewhat impersonal, but the rooms are good.
Krishna Palace Guest House has basic rooms, but the price is good at Rs 110 a night.
Oasis Hotel (72100; fax 72557), by the bus stand to Ajmer, has good, clean rooms with hot water for Rs 200 to Rs 300 with bath and Rs 175 with common bath. It has a fairly good pool (Rs 40 for non-guest and it is usually clean). It has a good restaurant. It is a popular place.
Peacock Hotel (277-2093; fax 277-2516), on the eastern outskirts of town, has rooms with bath for Rs 200/400 and with common bath for Rs 150/200. It has deluxe rooms for Rs 600 up to Rs 1000 for an A/C room. It has a pool (non-guest Rs 75) and a shady courtyard (a good place to hang out). It is a popular (with travelers), well-managed place and is recommended.
JP’s Tourist Village Resort (277-2067: fax 277-2026), about 2km out of town, has rooms for Rs 550/850. It has a nice garden, a small pool, a restaurant and a quiet location.
Hotel New Park (277-2464; fax 277-2199), a ten-minute walk from town, has good, well-maintained, modern rooms with bath ranging from Rs 300 up to Rs 650/750 for a room with air-cooling. It has a good pool. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the hills. It is a popular (especially with Israelis), peaceful place. They rent bikes. Recommended.

Where to Stay—Middle
RTDC Sarovar Tourist Bungalow (277-2040), east side of lake, in a garden by the lake, has rooms with common bath for Rs 200/250, with bath for Rs 500/600 with air-cooling. Rooms with a lake view are Rs 650/800 to Rs 1000/1100. It has dorm beds for Rs 60. You can rent a heater in the winter. Part of the hotel was a palace of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It has a nice pool (the water is changed every week). It is a recommended, well-managed, pleasant place. It has a fairly conservative mood. During the camel festival a normal room with bath is $75/85.
Pushkar Palace Hotel (277-2001; fax 277-2226; Web Site: http://www.hotelpushkarpalace.com), east side of lake, is a nice place that used to be the palace of the Maharaja of Kishangarh. It has simple rooms with common bath for Rs 250/400. Good doubles with bath and hot water range from Rs 1000 to Rs 1250. A/C suites are Rs 2150/2250. Some of the cheaper rooms have an excellent view of the lake, and there is a small garden right next to the lake. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. The cheaper rooms will be full later in the day, so if you arrive late, come the next day at 9 am. It is a recommended place, popular with package tours. It has an upmarket mood. The best rooms here can go for $200 during the camel festival.

Tourist Village and Camps

RTDC Tourist Village (0145 277-0238During the Camel Festival a tented village for around 2,000 people is set up by the RTDC right next to the Camel Fair. A standard tent is $82/98, a deluxe tent is $119/132, and a hut is $132/145. A dorm bed is $7. There is a 6% tax added on. When the fair is not on the huts are Rs 350/400.

The demand is high for these tents. To book a tent you contact the Rajasthan Tourist Corporation in Jaipur at (0141 277-2074, 233-0238) at the Swagatam Tourist Bungalow or in Delhi at Bikaner House, Pandara Rd (011 338-3837; fax 011 338-2823). You are supposed to pay in full 30 days before the fair begins.

Royal Desert Camp (277-2957) has luxury tents with shared bathrooms for $100 and with meals for $150, which includes meals. It is booked at the Hotel Pushkar Palace.
Royal Tent Camp, owned by the Maharaja of Jodhpur, has luxury tents for $200/$250. Owned by the maharaja of Jodhpur. They can be reserved at the Balsamand Palace in Jodhpur (0291 257-227-2323; fax 0291 257-1240). Rates include hot water and all meals.

Where to Eat
All the restaurants in town are strictly vegetarian, and do not serve even eggs. Many of the places in town offer all-you-can-eat buffet lunches and dinners for Rs 45. Basically they are thalis that you serve yourself. Many times the food is sitting all day, so it may be unhealthy. It is best to get food, especially in India, when it is freshly cooked.

OM Siva Restaurant, upstairs in the main bazaar, across from the State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur, has an all-you-can-eat breakfast for Rs 40. This includes cereal, fruit, brown bread with your choice of butter, peanut butter, jelly, or cheese, and other items. This meal is a real bargain and is recommended. The lunch buffet includes several items including rice, vegetables, soup, chips and falafel.
The OM Shiva Buffet Restaurant that used to be on the rooftop of the VK Tourist Palace Hotel, on the way to the Hotel Pushkar Palace, has been moved. It is now located in the building just to the right of the VK Tourist Palace Hotel, on the ground floor. It is still a good place and a bargain. It serves breakfast from 7 am to 12.30 pm.
Raju’s Garden Restaurant, in the center of the town off the main road near Ram Ghat, is one of the better places. The spaghetti is good, and for western food this is one of the better places. It has pizza and baked potatoes. It has a breakfast buffet for Rs 45.
RS Restaurant, by the Brahma Temple, is one of the better places in town. It has good cheap thalis.
Rainbow, near the Brahma Temple on Brahma Mandir Rd, is a rooftop restaurant that serves Indian, Chinese, Mexican Italian, and good falafels. It has a really good view of the lake.
Krishna Restaurant, Temple Rd, has good Indian, hummus, falafel and dosas.
Hotel Pushkar Palace has a good buffet. It cost Rs 110 for lunch and Rs 140 for dinner. It has a bakery. It is well located in a garden next to the lake.
Natraj, near the bazaar post office, is a fairly good rooftop place.
Moondance opposite the Vishnu temple on the main road, east side of town, has very good Indian, Italian, Mexican and Thai food. The sizzlers are excellent. It is a popular, laid-back, chill-out place. There is a section where you sit on the floor and eat. It is an easy place to meet people and hangout. It is a recommended nighttime place.
Venus Restaurant, on the rooftop of the Venus Hotel, serves Indian, Continental, Italian and Chinese food. The sizzlers are good. An Indian thali is Rs 50. It is a good place to sit and watch what is happening in the bazaar below.
The rooftop restaurant at the Oasis Hotel is good. The Israeli meal for Rs 75 is very good.
The Sunset Café, near the Pushkar Palace on the east side of the lake, is a nice place to sit and watch the sunset. The food is fairly good.

Travel
Air The closest airport is 131km away in Jaipur.

Train The nearest railway station, in Ajmer (11km), has trains to Jaipur, Delhi, Udaipur and Ahmedabad. From Ahmedabad you can get a train to Mumbai or Dwarka.

Rather than going to Ajmer yourself to reserve a train, you can have a travel agency in Pushkar arrange your train a day or two in advance for a Rs 50 charge.Vacation Network (277-2863), near the Pushkar Palace is good.

The fully A/C Shatabdi Express departing at 3.30 pm from Ajmer is the fastest train to Delhi.

The best way to get to Delhi is to catch an overnight train from Ajmer. It is much better than taking an overnight bus, but it takes a little advance planning.

Bus There are two bus stands in Pushkar—the Marwar bus stand, in the north of town by the post office, which services some long distance places, and the Ajmer bus stand, east of town by the RTDC Sarovar Hotel, which has buses to Ajmer and Jaipur. There are regular buses from Pushkar to Ajmer (Rs 4). The buses from Ajmer to Pushkar depart every hour from 6 am to 10 pm, from near the Ajmer railway station. Buses also depart from the Ajmer bus stand to Pushkar.

In Pushkar there are travel agencies that sell tickets for deluxe buses to cities all over this part of India. The buses usually depart from Ajmer, and the travel agency usually arranges free jeep transport to Ajmer.

Shreenath Travels is a good travel agency. It is cheaper to arrange a bus ticket directly with a travel agency than through your hotel.

For Delhi, one express bus leaves daily from the Marwar bus stand at 10.15 am (8 hr). There is a deluxe bus that leaves from the Ajmer bus stand at 7.15 am for Delhi. There is a direct bus to Udaipur (8 hr), stopping in Nathdwar.

Car From Ajmer there are shared jeep to Pushkar, which depart from the railway station. The jeep-taxis from Pushkar to Ajmer depart from the Marwar bus stand.

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