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Ajmer

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Pop: 490,000
Phone Code: 0145

Ajmer, 138km southwest of Jaipur, is where the Sufi saint Khawaja Muin-ud-din Chishti lived. He founded the Chistiya Order, the main Sufi order in India. His tomb, the Dargah, is one of the most visited Muslim shrines in India.

Most travelers come to Ajmer on their way to or from Pushkar. There is little of interest here, so most people move on quickly.

Information
The helpful Tourist Office (262-7426) is in the Khadim Tourist Bungalow near the bus stand (Mon to Sat 10am-2pm and 3 to 6 pm). They can arrange tourist taxis and approved guides. There is a tourist information counter in the railway station.

You can change money at the State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur, on Station Rd, and the State Bank of India, near the bus stand. The State Bank of Baroda, Pushkar Rd, opposite the GPO, changes cash, travelers cheques (must have the receipt) and accepts some credit cards. The State Bank of India (262-7048) changes travelers cheques and currency.

Pratap Memorial Hospital (20402), Kutchery Rd, and JLN Hospital (21420) are possible hospitals.

Satguru's Internet (242-45350, 60-91 Kutchery Rd is a good place for Internet (Rs 25 per hr)

Dargah (Muin-ud-din Chishti Tomb)
Thousands of devoted Muslims come to Ajmer during the Urs Mela to visit the tomb of Khwajaxe Muin-ud-din Chishti. When he died in 1236, he was buried in a small brick tomb in the northern part of town. A marble complex called the Dargah now surrounds it. Visitors enter the complex from Dargah Bazaar through an ornate gate that leads to a courtyard. There are two gigantic containers, called degs (3m wide), full of rice that is distributed to devotees as tabarukh, sanctified food. The mosque built by Akbar is to the right. The tomb of Muin-ud-din Chishti is a central marble building surrounded by a silver railing. Nearby is a superb mosque built by Shah Jahan. A small donation is expected.

Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra & Taragarh Fort
Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra means the “2½ day Mosque,” which is how long it is said it took Muhammad of Ghur to build it in 1195. It has giant pillars and Persian lettering on its seven arches. It is located half a km past Dargah.

Three km west of Dargah (built 1100) is the Taragarh Fort or Star Fort. It is now in ruins and is not so interesting, but the view is good.

Daulat Khana Palace
It was once the palace of the Mughal emperor Akbar. It is now a government museum containing sculptures and other exhibits. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 4.30 pm; admission Rs 3, photography prohibited. It is located near the GPO.

Other Places
The lavishly decorated Nashiyan (Red) Jain Temple has models depicting the Jain conception of the universe and theology. It is dedicated to Adinath. It is very well done and is worth seeing. About 25% of the population of Ajmer are Jains. Open daily 8.30 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 3

Ana Sagar, in the northeast side of town, is an often-dry artificial lake. When there is water in the winter months it is a nice place to walk around. Next to it is the Dault Bagh gardens.

Near the railway station are Edward Memorial Hall and the Jubilee Clock Tower.

A few km from Ajmer on the road to Pushkar are wet lands, which is a good place for bird watching. When I went there with a friend, we spotted 28 types of birds.

Where to Stay—Lower

Be careful of the rickshaw drivers who will bring you to any hotel for Rs 5. In truth they will only bring you to the hotel of their choice, where they receive a commission.

You can stay in a room in a family’s house using the Paying Guest Scheme. This is arranged at the tourist office in the RTDC Khadim Tourist Bungalow.
Anand Hotel (23099), Prithviraj Marg, has clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 125/150. It is a good place.
Hill Top Cottage (623-984), 164 Shastri Nagar, is a nice place with clean rooms for Rs 350/450 to Rs 600. It serves veg meals.
King Edward Memorial Rest House (KEM) (429-936), across the street from the railway station, has basic rooms for Rs 90/130 and Rs 150/200. You should ask to see some rooms, as many of them are different and some are really run-down.
Hotel Ashoka (24729), near the railway station, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125/150.
Sirtaj Hotel (20096), near the railway station, has good rooms for Rs 150/200. The restaurant serves Punjabi food.
RTDC Khadim Tourist Bungalow (262-7490; fax: 243-1330) is by the bus station, an 8-min auto-rickshaw ride from the railway station. Rooms are Rs 450/550 and Rs 700/800 with A/C. Dorm beds are Rs 60. It has a nice location, but is not so well maintained. It is popular with travelers.
Aravali Holiday Resort (52089), nearby, has rooms with bath (bucket hot water) for Rs 150/175 and a room with bath with constant hot water is Rs 250/300.
Hotel Samrat (621-257), Kutchery Rd, near the railway station, has rooms with TV for Rs 300/375 up to Rs 700. It is close to the private bus companies and is convenient for an early morning bus departure. It is overpriced. 24-hour checkout.
Bhola Hotel (243-2844), opposite the church at Agra Gate and near the train station on Prithviraj Marg, has rooms with bath for Rs 200/250. Hot water from a tap in the hall. It has a good veg restaurant. 24-hour checkout. Friendly place. Free bucket hot water.
Nagpal Tourist Hotel (242-9503), across the street from the railway station, has modern, comfortable double rooms with TV starting at Rs 500. It is a good place. 24-hour checkout. Free hot water in buckets

Where to Stay—Middle and High
Hotel Regency (620-296; fax 420-747), Delhi Gate, has good modern rooms for Rs 600/700 and Rs 970/1000 with A/C.
Hotel Embassy (262-3859; Email: hotelembassy@satyam.net.in), Jaipur Rd, has moderncomfortable rooms for Rs 600/900. Have Indian toilets.
Mansingh Palace Hotel (242-5956; fax 242-5858), Ana Sagar Circular Rd, a few km northeast of town, is the only high-end hotel with comfortable rooms. Rooms are Rs2400/3400. It is a nice place and is well-located overlooking Ana Sagar. Pleasant garden.

Where to Eat
Bhola Hotel is a recommended, cheap vegetarian place. A thali is Rs 40.
Jai Hind Restaurant, behind the clock tower, across from the railway station, is a good vegetarian place. $.
Mango Masala (242-0724) has vegetarian, Indian, Chinese and International food. Also has good baked goods and ice creams. $-$$.

Honeydew Restaurant, near the KEM Rest House, has Indian food, pizzas and ice cream.
Sabras, Prithviraj Marg, is a good, reasonably cheap veg place, popular with the locals. $.
Tandoor Restaurant, south of the bus stand, has a tandoori cuisine. $-$$.
Sheesh Mahal, at the Mansingh Palace, is a very good place with main dishes ranging from Rs 75 to Rs 200 (12.30 to 3 pm and 7.30 to 11 pm). $$$.

Local Travel
An auto-rickshaw to most places in town should be no more than Rs 20.

Travel
Train
 Ajmer is on the Delhi–Jaipur–Ahmedabad line, and most trains on this line stop here. You can not get tourist quota for many of the train departing from here so it is a good idea to book as soon as you can. You can also book through the travel agents in Pushkar or in Ajmer from Midway Tours & Travels (262-8744; E anilgujra@yahoo.com) who charges Rs 25 to Rs 40 to book a ticket.

Agra: Agra Fort Fast Passenger Exp #9706 (8 pm, 10½ hr); Ahmedabad: Ahmedabad Exp #9903 (9.50 pm, 12½ hr), Ahmedabad Mail #9901 (8.30 am, 12 hr); Delhi: Shatabdi Exp #2016 (3 pm, 7 hr), Aravalli Exp #9932 (7 pm, 10½ hr); Jaipur: Shatabdi Exp #2016 (3 pm, 2¼ hr), Pink City Exp #2916 (1.50 pm 2½ hr); Jodhpur: Jodhpur Mail #4893 (5.45 am, 6 hr); Udaipur: Chetak Exp #9815 (3.35 pm, 8 hr).

 

Bus The bus station (20398) is about 2km southwest of the railway station. It has a baggage storage place. There are deluxe buses to Delhi (7½ hr), Mumbai, Jaipur (2½ hr, every half-hour), Udaipur (7 hr, every hr), Chittorgarh (4 hr, every hr), Kota (5 hr, every hr), Bundi (165km), Mt Abu (10 hr), Bharatpur (7½ hr), Bikaner (7 hr), Jodhpur (4½ hr, regularly), Jaisalmer (12 hr, 7.30 am) and Ahmedabad (12 hr).

On Kutchery Rd, near the railway station there are private companies that operate buses to many places. If you book a bus ticket in Pushkar with a travel agency, the agency will usually provide a free jeep ride to Ajmer. Ekta Travels and Shrinath Travels are two possible companies.

Buses to Pushkar (Rs 5, return Rs 4) depart from outside Gandhi Bhawan, which is across the street from the railway station, a few hundred metres to the right after exiting the station. There are shared jeeps (Rs 10) to Pushkar.

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