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Practical Information
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News Over 2,000 people have been killed in terrorist attacks and fighting in Kashmir so far this year, so it is still highly suggested not to go to Kashmir. Please do not believe anything you may be told by travel agents that there are no longer problems in Kashmir. This is definitely not so. The population of India is now over one billion. New
States Increase
in Major Tourist Sites Entrance Fees The
Taj Mahal has been increased from Rs 15 up to $20 or Rs 950. On Friday
it is free and crowded, but I know of many people that have gone on
Friday and really enjoyed their trip to the Taj. It is closed on Monday.
The main part of the fee is supposed to go to the Agra Development
Association. (I will research what is actually being done with the
money). Hotel
Ratings The number after the hotel name in parenthesis is the phone number for the hotel. When you read the description of hotels in this book there are several words I use repeatedly. This is not just because I cannot be unique and find new words. “Well-managed” means that the people managing the hotel try to be efficient and that the people at the front desk can communicate with you properly. “Family-run” means that the hotel is owned by a family. This is usually very good, because they are getting all the profits of the hotel and so really try to please. In a family-run hotel they are usually more selective with whom they allow to stay in their hotel, especially during the high-seasons. Sometimes families can be hard to deal with because they are too attached. A “friendly place” means that the management and the people working in the hotel are pleasant and they make you feel like you are at home. Also, it could be a good place to meet people. A “recommended hotel” means that I would stay in that hotel myself in that particular price range. It means it is a very good place, at least compared to the other places in town. You may even go to a particular city just to stay in a recommended hotel in a higher price range, such as the Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur. A “nice place” or a “good place” means that it is superior to other places in the same price range and you will probably like the place. A “very good place” means that the place is clean, well-managed, friendly and pleasant.
A “basic place” only has the bare necessities, which usually
means four walls and a bed (maybe with no sheet). A “really
basic” or “very basic” place means there might not
be a bed (just a mattress on the floor) and the toilet facilities
are minimal or nonexistent. “Colonial” means that the building dates back to the time of the British. “British Raj” means that the building dates to the time when the British ruled India and usually the hotel still projects the atmosphere of that era. “Modern”
means that the rooms in the hotel are built in the Western style and
are well-maintained. “Comfortable” means that the hotel
room is pleasant, has a good feel to it, and has modern amenities,
such as, a good color TV and a clean, well-maintained bathroom. Of the Northeast states, Assam, Tripura and Meghalaya are open to foreign tourists without a permit. Permits to visit parts of the states of Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh and Manipur are issued to tourist traveling in a group of four or more by pertinent state governments. Visits are restricted to certain areas in these states. To get a permit for individual travel to these states is usually difficult. You get a permit to visit Sikkim from immigration offices at embassies and consulates abroad, the main international airports, foreigners’ registration offices, and in Darjeeling and Siliguri. You need a permit to trek in certain areas of Sikkim, and some areas of Sikkim are totally restricted. Passport
Visa Extensions It is unlikely to get an extension on a six-month visa, and officially the only office that can give an extension now is the main Delhi office. If a person has a good reason, for instance extreme illness, it may be possible to get a two-week extension for US$40. For visa information try this site (www3.travel.com.au/everest/index.cgi?E=bevisreq). The Delhi office has a sign that says it is not possible to extend a three or six-month tourist visa. You are more likely to get an extension on a three months visa than on a six months visa. One woman told me, she saw seven people turned down in the Delhi office. She got a one-month extension because she had gone to Nepal for a part of her visa period. The men in the visa office are intelligent and do not appreciated ridiculous excuses. Make sure you have your story together. Usually the only reason that you will get an extension is because you were, or are sick (you need a doctor’s letter saying this is a fact), or you have some very special circumstances. Also, if you can not get a flight out of India you can often get a visa extension. You must show your airline ticket with a confirmed flight date on it, then you will usually be issued a visa for the number of days until the flight. In theory, you can apply to extend your visa in every state capital at the office of the Superintendent of Police. In actuality, you can usually only extend a tourist visa at the Foreigners’ Regional Registration Offices in New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, or Calcutta. Usually officials are friendlier in the smaller towns than in the big cities. You should try to extend your visa at least a week before your visa expires. In case you do not get the extension, you should have your plane trip scheduled to leave India within the time that your visa is scheduled to expire. Over extending your visa is taken very seriously by Indian officials. You many be arrested and blacklisted, which means you will not be able to get another visa for India. Many people go to Nepal (can only be done once, if that) or other neighboring countries to get a new visa. Many people have told me that most of the people applying in Nepal for another six-month Indian visa have been turned down. People who are turned down are usually given a 15-day transit visa, if their international flight is out of India. Sometimes a visa in Kathmandu can be arranged through a travel agent. WARNING! If you plan to stay in India for more than six months, you must register at a Foreigners’ Registration Office within two weeks of your arrival. When you register, you will fill out four forms and turn in four photographs. One of the forms is returned to you. You should keep it very carefully because you will have to show this form when you leave the country. If you can not show this form at the airport there is a good chance you will not be allowed to get on your flight leaving the country. If you do not register within two weeks of your arrival, usually there is no problem doing it later, if you have a reason (excuse). Such as, you did not think you were going to stay for more than six months, which is often true. If you have a tourist visa and did not register in time, it is better to tell the truth and say that you were spaced out or did not know you were supposed to register, rather than coming up with a stupid excuse and insulting the intelligence of the person registering you. The people working in the Foreigners’ Registration Offices are usually high-ranking police officers and are usually highly intelligent (and usually reasonable).
Foreigners’ Registration Office (FRO) Main
Foreigners’ Registration Offices To get one, you go to the Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department in Delhi, Calcutta, Chennai, or Mumbai and show them your passport, visa extension form (if any), and whatever bank exchange receipts you have, so you can prove that you have changed your foreign currency officially and have not worked in India. The Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department in New Delhi is in the Central Revenue Building, near Hans Bhavan and the Tilak Bridge Railway Station. If you are in India for education or other business with a long-term visa (one year or more), you can get a letter from the organization that you are with. This letter must say that you have been supported by the organization while you were in India. Warning
Many people are being turned back at the airport for not having income
tax clearances, so it is advised to get one before going to the airport.
If you do not have it you will not be allowed to get on the plane. If a serious crime has been committed against you, such as rape or physical violence, and you know who did it, and the local police will not do anything about, you can sometimes go to your embassy and they will help you get justice.
Customs I do know of cases where people have not declared their computer or printer and had to pay a $200 fine. They can also legally seize what you were supposed to have declared, and I have heard of cases where this has happened. This will usually only happen if you bring in four computers or five new identical cameras. Your check-in and carry-on baggage is X-rayed when you come off the plane. They then put a big chalk “X” on the bags that contain electronic equipment. When you come to the door to leave the airport they check to see if there are any chalk “X” marks on your bags. The reason why they are so strict about electronic goods is because they charge a high duty on imported goods. In you enter India from Nepal you are not allowed to bring in anything duty free.
Indian Government The Lok Sabha has 545 members. Each of the 17 states and 10 Union Territories have a certain number of seats depending on its population. Lok Sabha elections are held every five years, or earlier if the government calls for an election. The Lower House can be dissolved. Of the 545 seats, 125 are reserved for Scheduled Castes and Tribes. Only two or three times a year is the entire house present. At least 50 members must be present to propose and pass a bill. Taxation and government spending are only discussed in the Lower House. Either house can propose a bill, but most are proposed by the Lok Sabha, and is then passed to the Rajya Sabha for approval. The Rajya Sabha has 245 members and cannot be dissolved. There are elections every two years, at which time one-third of the Rajya Sabha is elected. The Rajya Sabha is mainly an advisory body. They have the right to create a state and can change state boundaries. Each state has it own legislative assemblies called Vidhan Sabha. The police force, education, and industry are administered solely by the state governments. Other areas may be administered by both the national and state governments. The two national houses and the state houses elect the President of India, who has limited power. The real ruler of the country is the Prime Minister. The central government has the right to take power in a state, if the situation in the state is critical. This may be because no party can win a majority in the state government, or because law and order is impossible to control, such as in Kashmir in 1990, Assam in 1991 or the Punjab from 1985 to 1992. Indian
Flag About 70% of the population live in villages. It is estimated that about 300 million people live in the cities. Many of the people in Indian look different. The Kashmiris have lighter skin and look more like Central Asians, South Indians have darker skin, Bengalis are usually shorter, and the people from Tibet, Ladakh and Sikkim look totally different. About 7% of the population are considered to be tribals. The majority of the people in India are Hindus. There are 110 million Muslims. There are 23 million Christians, 19 million Sikhs, 6.9 million Buddhists, and 4.7 million Jains. The
national literacy rate is 54%. The literacy rate for men is 64% and
for women 39%. The literacy rate between states varies greatly. In
Rajasthan it is just 38% and in Kerala it is 91%. Tipping is not necessary for taxis, especially if you have set the price in advance. If a taxi driver goes out of the way for you, such as carrying your bags, it is a good idea to tip him. If you arrange a taxi for the day, it is normal to give the taxi driver something for lunch, say Rs 25 or Rs 50. If he has done a good job, it is a good idea to give the driver a tip. I usually give Rs 50 to Rs 100, if the driver has been helpful. In more expensive hotels a tip of Rs 5 or Rs 10 to carry a bag is appropriate, and in cheaper hotels it is less. In expensive tourist restaurants or hotels a service charge is sometimes tacked on to the bill at a 10% rate. So before you tip, look to see if a service charge has already been added to your bill. Giving small tips can make the most difficult things suddenly easy. You do not have to tip, but it can really help when you need something done quickly or efficiently.
Laundry Generally the hotel you stay at can arrange to get your laundry done. At least they will know where to find the local dobhi. Business
Hours
Guides and Tours You can often get a good private guide for the area by contacting the local tourist office. Travel agencies can sometimes arrange a good guide. If the travel agent cannot speak good English, then there is a good chance that the “English speaking” guide he arranges will not speak proper English either, because the agent’s standard of what is good English is different than yours. You may want to test your guide on some basic information and his ability to speak English. Sometimes they may be able to speak a few things in English to trick you. Also many times, a rickshaw or taxi driver can give you a nice tour. I have often found guides to be useful for information. On the other hand, they may not really be guides at all, but commission agents. They may charge you a low price to guide you around town, say Rs 50, and just take you around to shops all day, along with the few places you want to go. You should become suspicious if they want to charge you an unusually low price. The first impression of the guide is usually correct. If you do not trust the guide at all, do not hire him. A guide who manipulates you in order to be hired is usually nothing but trouble.
Travels Guides Books South India, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Goa as well as Western India, Karnataka, Bombay, Maharashtra, by Philip Ward are two good general books about traveling in the respective areas. He describes these places to you as he is actually going to them, so you get a feeling of what it is like to be there. Insights
Guides’ Rajasthan and India by APA Productions, and Nelles Guides’
Northern India and Southern India are good photo essays on India.
They have excellent photographs and general descriptions of places,
but their practical sections are limited. India by Rail, by Royston
Ellis, is a good book about traveling by train. Garhwal-The Devbhoomi,
published by Nest and Wings, is a good, detailed book about traveling
in the Himalayas. To have a correct understanding of the spiritual culture of India it is helpful to read the Bhagavad-gita, which was spoken by Lord Sri Krishna to Arjuna. Considered by many to be the most authoritative version in English is Bhagavad-gita As It Is by His Divine Grace A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada.
Maps The Government of India tourist offices have good city maps and a decent India map that they give away for free. Nest & Wings produces some good maps of the Himalayas. Himachal Pradesh tourist offices has three good trekking maps detailing trekking routes in that state. The Survey of India Government Map Office has some good detailed city maps, including: Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai, Mathura, Varanasi, Allahabad, Rishikesh and many others. Their sales office in Delhi is opposite the tourist office on Janpath.
World Times
Months Magha
- January-February Electricity Disabled
Travelers Antiques over 100 years old cannot be taken out of India, unless you have an export clearance certificate from the Archaeological Survey of India, which is difficult to get. If you are discovered taking an antique out of the country without a clearance certificate, it will be taken from you. To attempt to get an export clearance certificate for antiques you can contact the Director, Antiquities, Archaeological Survey of India, Janpath, New Delhi; Archaeological Survey of India, Sion Fort, Mumbai; Superintending Archaeologist, Eastern Circle, Archaeological Survey of India, Narayani Building, Brabourne Road, Calcutta; Archaeological Survey of India, Fort St George, Chennai.
Clothes If you go to India between mid-November and mid-February, it can be very cold in northern India, especially in the Himalayas. You definitely need a warm sweater or two. If you are staying for a few months it is a good idea to bring extra socks, because if you have a laundry man wash them, they wear out very quickly. A warm hat in the early morning may be necessary. It is hard to get good winter clothes and socks in India. Sandals are good to wear because they go on and off easily. At Bata shoe store for about Rs 100 you can get good cheap sandals, which are comfortable and sturdy. If you leave an expensive pair of shoes outside a temple unguarded, they may be stolen. Acceptable
Dress Transparent
and low-cut dresses, bare shoulders, short skirts, and shorts are
not acceptable for women, except in big cities like Mumbai. Women
can wear trousers. Indian women on the beach bathe with their clothes
on and never swim in bathing suits. Men should usually always wear
a shirt in public. Men wearing lungis or gumshas, away from beaches
or rivers, are not regarded very highly. You should not even think of putting any valuables in your check-in baggage on plane flights. Valuables should not be left in your hotel room, if possible, especially in lower-class places where you use the hotel’s lock. It is best to always carry valuables on you. Most hotel rooms have extra keys for all the rooms. Your $1,000 could be worth two years of work for someone. You can leave valuables at the front desk at respectable hotels. If you are carrying a lot of money, you may want to carry two money belts. I always carry two. When I go into a crowded situation like a railway station, I put the money belt that I have most of my money and passport in under my pants. It is a good idea not to carry all your money in one place. If you do get robbed, what will you do if you are on a train to Mumbai with no money. It is best to carry at least $50 or $100 somewhere else all the time. Travel bags should be made of a strong material, so they cannot be cut open. You should also be able to put a lock on them, if possible. The external pockets of a bag should not be used to carry valuables. Women should not keep their valuables in their purse, as they would in America. They are easily slit with a razor or pickpocketed. I have heard of many cases of this happening. You should not carry valuables in your back pockets or side kurta pockets. Carry them in your front pants pockets, upper shirt pockets, or in a money belt. It is best to keep your valuables in the front part of your body. Lost
Passport or Ticket If
your ticket is lost, the travel agency where you purchased the ticket
may have to request a new one. So it is a good idea to have the phone
number and address of the travel agency that you got your ticket from.
Depending on the type of ticket you had, you may have to pay again
for the ticket and then wait for a refund, which can take a while.
A photocopy of your passport and ticket will come in very handy if
they are stolen. Watch
Repair Warning
Women Travelers It is important that women dress modestly. Women in India do not normally show their shoulders or knees, or wear tight fitting clothes, or shorts. It is best not to wear clinging, or low cut clothes. The bra-less look should be avoided. Women usually do not shake hands with men, and certainly any physical contact beyond this is asking for trouble. Having a casual conversation with a man is considered a reason for a man to proceed further. Indian women and men who don’t know each other, unless they are highly educated, just don’t talk with each other in India. If you feel that a man is coming into your space, more than likely he is. Usually you can just request them to stay away from you. If someone touches you apparently innocently, it usually isn’t. Men do not touch women they do not know in India. If you have a problem on a train or bus, approach the ticket collector and ask them politely to help you. If the ticket collector won’t help you, ask to see the conductor of the train. The conductor is usually a well-educated man, who you should speak to respectfully, and who will usually be helpful. Groping is a normal thing. It is standard for women to be groped (handled) on the local trains in Mumbai. That is why there are separate compartments for women. Even just walking in the station, women can be handled. If a woman goes into a very crowded situation with many men, such as a bus, especially if she is by herself, it is not unusual for her to be groped. This happens with Indian ladies too. If you are a woman traveling alone, it could be a good idea to travel by air-conditioned or first-class. There are much less passengers on these carriages, and they usually have had more contact with foreigners, so they are easier to deal with. Women can request a ladies compartment in a 2nd class carriage of a train. Many trains have such a compartment. Also, most of the time there is a special ladies’ queue (line) for purchasing train tickets. This means that ladies can go to the front of a queue to purchase tickets for trains and no one will say anything. Most railway stations have ladies’ waiting rooms. Language
Courses You can learn Tibetan at the Library of Tibetan Works in Dharamsala. There are also private teachers in Dharamsala. You can also learn Tibetan at the Library of Tibetan Works & Archives in Darjeeling. NOTICE
There are many power failures in India. So it is a good idea to have
a good flashlight (torch). Camel
Safaris River
Rafting and Kayaking Diving Skiing They will say they are taking you to their uncle’s or father’s shop, where you will get an unbelievable deal. Don’t believe it. If a tout does bring you to a shop and you want to purchase something, a good idea is to act like you do not like anything in the shop and just leave. You could then come back a half-hour later without the tout and purchase the item that you liked at a much lower price. There are touts in Jaipur who offer to take you on an all-day tour for Rs 50, which doesn’t pay for their petrol (gas) to get around. They actually know the town and give you a good tour, but in between each place they show you great spots to purchase clothes, jewels, or whatever else. I know two ladies who did this. They purchased a ring that was an all right deal and paid double the correct price for some clothes. Considering that they got a good tour of the town, they were more than satisfied. One way to get rid of touts is to hire one. If most of the hotels in town are full, they always know where there is a hotel with a room. They can be useful if there is a special festival and the town is packed, as they will know the hotels that still have rooms. Social
Behavior Women do not generally shake hands with men. Men and women should not touch each other in public, especially in holy places and temples. In temples and often in people’s homes, men and women sit separately. To greet someone, it is good manners to put your palms together and say “Namaste” or “Hare Krishna.” You can also shake hands, but this is not usually done in India, unless you are doing a business deal or someone wants something from you. Orthodox Hindus consider themselves polluted if they touch a person from a lesser caste, which Westerners are considered. Usually the more enthusiastically someone greets you, the more likely they are to rip you off. When you enter someone’s home you should take off your shoes. It is all right to wear shoes inside a house as long as they are never taken outside the house. Most Indians take a bath and brush their teeth every day, if not several times a day. It is a religious duty to take a daily bath. You should not enter the kitchen in a person’s home, unless you are invited to do so. Serving
spoons should never touch the plate of the person being served. After
someone has begun eating, they should wash their hands before serving
themselves or others’ food. If someone drinks from a bottle,
they should not touch the mouth of the bottle and give it to someone
else. This is considered unclean and unhealthy. Also, you do not take
a bite out of something and then hand it to someone else to eat, or
eat off the same plate as someone. After eating, Indians always wash
their hands and mouth. People from Great Britain, as a class, usually have an easier time in India than people from other countries. I figure it is because Indians respond to the mode of the British Raj. I highly suggest to women, especially young pretty ones, that they should act haughty, which in truth, I believe, only the British can do properly. It is usually a good ideal (especially if they are alone and are a women) to walk around with your nose in the air, in a mode demanding respect. This is often difficult for foreigners, who feel that it is demeaning to the people around them. I have found that in actually, the local people, from the common man on the street to the most educated (in the highest positions) respond favorably to a person that approaches them in a mode that they should be given respect. If you try to be friendly, often you will not accomplish your task, and you may be highly disrespected in the process. Simultaneously you also have to always show respect and be very polite. The more conservative you dress, usually the better response you will receive from people. For the most part India is a very formal and conservative country. If
you are a young women and someone approaches you in a disrespectful
way, maybe even touching you, I believed it is best to respond immediately,
by showing great disgust. Don’t give them an inch.
Begging One problem about giving to beggars by temples or holy places, especially if they are children, is that if you give to one, you may have a hundred persons surround you and ask you for money. Also, it is a bad policy to give any money to small children, because they usually give all the money to their parents or some other adult. In this way the parents do not have to work, nor is it profitable for the parents to give their children an education. One eight-year-old boy approached me for some money. A shopkeeper told me that the boy’s parent owned two shops, and that they didn’t know their child was on the street begging. General
Information If you have a problem understanding what is being said, you can ask the person to spell out the word, especially if it is a name. Before you hire a guide, make sure you can understand his English and he can understand yours. Many times they will say a few words that they know, so that you think they speak good English, then later you find you cannot communicate with them at all. If I cannot communicate with someone, I immediately go on to the next person and do not waste my time.
Many times the word “hotel” is used for a restaurant.
Measurements and Numbers Temperature in India is measured by the Centigrade system. To convert from xe "Centigrade to Fahrenheit" Centigrade to Fahrenheit you multiply the Centigrade temperature by 9/5 and add 32. A kilo is 2.2 pounds. A hundred thousand is called a lakh (1,00,000), and ten million is called a crore (1,00,00,000). A million would be referred to as 10 lakhs, and not as a million. Indian
English & Communication If you want to get directions to the train station, and you say “Where is the train station?” There is a good chance all you will get is blank stares. You have to ask “railway station?” Many people do not know what a train station is. Sometimes a bus station is called the “bus stand” in a particular town. If you ask for the bus station, no one will know what you are talking about. If people cannot understand you when you speak, try to say the same thing in another way. Sometimes you will have to rephrase your question five or six times before it will be understood. You may also have to accent your words differently. Mandir
is another name for temple. In Hindi sometimes the letter ‘s’
is pronounced as ‘sh’ and sometimes simply as ‘s.’
The letter ‘b’ and ‘v’ are often used interchangeably.
It can be either Braja or Vraja, or it can be Vrindavan or Brindavan. If all else fails, ask to see the complaint book, which no one can refuse to give you. If someone is treating me in a way that I consider totally unfair, I demand that the person writes down his name, so I can complain to his superior. This usually breaks the person out of their dream world and makes them do things efficiently and quickly. I do 0actually complain if I am unfairly treated and have usually received what I consider justice. Also, offering small personal gifts, such as, a western pen or lighter, or a devotional item such as a picture of Krishna or a spiritual book can really help. If you know of information that is not listed here, or if you would like to help update our listings, please e-mail us at:
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