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Local
Trains
Mumbai has a good local train system stopping at 28 stations. The local
train system is a good way to get around if you do not have much luggage.
There are two different train lines. One begins at Churchgate Station
and goes along the west side of the city past Mumbai Central, Dadar,
and Santa Cruz. The other begins at VT station. Some trains are express
(stop only at major stations and move twice as fast as the locals) and
others are local. The trains are crowded most of the day, especially
during rush hours.
There are
both first-class and second-class compartments. First-class costs about
ten times the price and is often much less crowded except during rush
hour.
Most trains
have ladies-only compartments, which are very advisable for ladies,
especially during rush hours, because in a crowded situation the men
love to grope (touch) the women. You should be very careful when getting
on and off the trains.
There are
no conductors ensuring that everyone is safely on the platform or in
the train before departure. Someone I know tried to board a train in
Mumbai, but it began pulling out and he ended up breaking a leg.
Taxis and Auto-Rickshaws
I found that most taxi drivers seem to use their meters. They carry
a fare adjustment chart, and passengers must pay around 11 times the
meter for taxis and 7 times the meter for auto-rickshaws.
To hire a car for the day (8 hr or 80km) costs: Rs 1000 for A/C Luxury,
Rs 600 for non-A/C; Rs 500 for an Ambassador.
A car can
be hired from Makson Auto Hirers (812-1701), Sagar Kunj, L Jagmohanda
Marg; Bhuta Travels (632-5334), Nagardas Park, Old Nagardas Rd, Andheri;
or Budget (494-2644).
Local
Buses
70 Dadar Station via Mumbai
Central to Colaba
66/71 VT to Mumbai Central
91 Mumbai Central to Kurla Station
81 Churchgate via Vatsalbai Desai Chowk to Santa
Cruz (for Mahalakshmi Temple and Haji Ali’s tomb)
124 Colaba via Mumbai Central to Vatsalabai Desai Chowk
Motorcycle
Allibhai Premji Tyrewallah (309-9313), 205 Lamington
Rd, Opera House, is a good place to purchase or rent a motorcycle. Rental
cost is between Rs 1500 and Rs 2200 a week, depending on the model.
Arrival
by Bus and Train (Getting to Colaba or downtown)
From the long-distance bus station or Mumbai Central railway station
to Colaba by bus: take bus #66, #70, or #71 from the bus stop on Dr
DN Marg (Lamington Rd), a two-minute walk west of the station. You can
also take the local train to Churchgate Station (from the Mumbai Central
local train platform) and take a short taxi ride (Rs 20) from there.
A taxi takes twenty minutes to half an hour.
Maharashtrian
State buses end at the ASIAD bus stand or Dadar railway station. It
is a half an hour to an hour taxi ride from there to Colaba. You could
also take a local train from Dadar station to Churchgate Station and
a short taxi ride from there. You can also take Best bus #70 to Colaba.
Buses from Goa (both private and public) usually let passengers down
in the Fort area, which is a 10-minute taxi ride to Colaba.
From Victoria
Terminus (VT) it is a 10-minute taxi ride to Colaba. From Kurla railway
station a taxi will take an hour or more, or you can take bus #91 to
Mumbai Central and then either bus #70 or the local train to Churchgate.
This would be difficult during rush hour if you are carrying a lot of
luggage.
Arrival by Air
To get downtown from the airport can be an hour drive (sometimes two)
during rush hour, but at other times it takes about 45 minutes. Sahar
(international) airport is 15 minutes further north than Santa Cruz
(domestic) airport.
If you arrive at night you may want to pay in advance at the prepaid
taxi stand at a rate slightly higher than the meter rate. The prepaid
fare from the International airport to Colaba is Rs 425 and Rs 550 at
night.
It is about
Rs 400 from Colaba to the airport on the meter. From Juhu (30 min) to
the airport costs Rs 150. At night and during rush hour, most taxi drivers
will not want to use the meter and will request a higher fare.
You should
not get an auto-rickshaw at the airport to go downtown because auto-rickshaws
are not permitted in the downtown area. If you do make this mistake,
you may be left with an unscrupulous taxi driver at Mahim Creek, which
is as far south as they are allowed.
The EAT
bus (Rs 75) leaves hourly from Sahar and Santa Cruz (a half-hour later)
airports for downtown. This is an inexpensive way to get downtown. Most
of the higher-priced hotels, especially the ones by the airport, send
courtesy coaches to the airport. There are airport buses every half-hour
to the airport from the Air India building at Nariman Point.
To get
downtown, you can also take an auto-rickshaw to the suburban train,
which is very inexpensive. From Sahar International Airport go to Andheri
station, and from Santa Cruz Domestic Airport, go to Vile Parle station.
It is usually better to take the train downtown if you don’t have
much luggage than to go by public bus. The train takes about forty-five
minutes.
Taxi drivers
will try to take you to the hotel of their choice. It is usually best
not to agree with their suggestions, as their commission will be added
to the price of the room. Later in the day, however, it may be difficult
to find a hotel at any price, so they may be helpful at that time.
Travel
Air The Mumbai airport is the busiest airport in India.
Most of the major international airlines fly into Mumbai. There are
several flights a day to the major cities in India.
There are
two airports in Mumbai—the Santa Cruz airport (domestic), and
Sahar airport (international). When preparing to leave for your flight,
be sure to go to the correct airport. Both airports are north of the
downtown area, about 26km from city center. Shuttle buses run between
the two airports every fifteen minutes. At Sahar International Airport
there are MTDC and Government of India tourist counters, a 24-hour branch
of the State Bank of India, and a prepaid taxi stand. Many flights arrive
at night, so it would be wise to reserve a room at one of the tourist
counters (expect to pay more). You may also decide to wait until daylight
before leaving the airport.
Flights
from Mumbai include Ahmedabad (6 daily, $120), Aurangabad (2 daily,
$70), Bangalore (8 daily, $170), Bhavnagar (1 daily, $125), Bhopal (1
daily, $145), Bhubaneswar (3 weekly, $270), Calcutta (6 daily, $260),
Kozhikode (4 daily, $185), Chennai (8 daily, $120), Coimbatore (2 daily,
$170), Delhi (15 daily, 225), Diu (daily, $140), Goa (5 daily, $160),
Hyderabad (6 daily, $160), Jaipur (3 daily, $190), Jodhpur (3 weekly,
$190), Kathmandu (3 weekly, $365), Madurai (1daily, $225), Mangalore
(4 daily, $165), Pune (2 daily, $110), Thiruvananthapuram (3 daily,
$220), Udaipur (1 daily, $145), Varanasi (1 daily, $275), and Visakhapatnam
(1 daily, $220).
Often it is possible to take an international flight into Mumbai and
out of Delhi for the same price as flying into and out of either one
of the airports. There are clean comfortable Retiring Rooms at the Domestic
terminal for Rs 440 for a double room; Rs 165 dorm bed.
Most of
the international airline offices are at or near Nariman Point. The
Air India office at Nariman Point can be crowded.
International Airlines
Aeroflot
9 Tulsiani Chambers, Free Press Journal Marg,
Nariman Point (221-1682)
Air France
Maker Chambers VI, J Bajaj Marg
Nariman Point (202-5021)
Air India
Air India Building, Nariman Point (202-4142)
Reservation office at the Centaur Hotel, Juhu Beach
Air Lanka
Mittal Towers, C Wing, Nariman Point (284-4156)
Air Mauritius
Air India Building, Nariman Point (202-8474)
Alitalia
Industrial Assurance Building, Veer Nariman Rd,
Churchgate (204-5023)
Bangladesh Biman
199 J Tata Rd, Churchgate (282-4659)
British Airways
Valcan Insurance Building, 202 B Veer
Nariman Rd, Churchgate (282-0888)
Canadian Airlines
Amarchand Mansion, Madame Cama Rd
(201-1111)
Cathay Pacific Airways
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder Colaba
(202-9112)
Delta
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba
(288-5659)
Druk Air
2 Raheja Center, Free Press Journal Marg
Nariman Point (287-4936)
Emirates
Mittal Chambers, 228 Nariman Point
(287-1649)
Ethiopian Airways
Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba (202-8787)
Gulf Air
Maker Chamber V J Bajaj Marg,
Nariman Point (202-1626)
Japan Air Lines
Raheja Centre, Free Press Journal Marg,
Nariman Point (287-4939)
Kenya Airways
199 J Tata Rd, Churchgate (282-0064)
KLM
Khaitan Bhavan, 198 J Tata Rd, Churchgate
(283-3338)
Kuwait Airlines
Chateau Windsor, 86 Veer Nariman Rd
(204-5351)
LOT (Polish Airways)
6 Maker Arcade, Cuffe Parade (218-5494)
Lufthansa
Express Towers, Nariman Point (202-3430)
Malaysia Airlines
GSA Stic Travels & Tours, 6 Maker Arcade,
Cuffe Parade (218-1431)
Pakistan International Airlines
4th floor, Mittal Towers, Free Press Journal
Marg, Nariman Point (202-1373)
Qantas
42 Sakhar Bhavan, Nariman Point
(202-0343)
Royal Jordanian Airlines
B-1 Amarchand Msn, Madame Cama Rd
(223-080)
Royal Nepal Airlines
Maker Chamber V, Nariman Point
(283-6197)
Sabena
Nirmal, Nariman Point (202-3240)
South African Airways
Podar House, 10 Marine Drive
(282-3450)
Scandinavian Airlines (SAS)
Poddar House, 10 Marine Drive (202-7083)
Singapore Airlines
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder
(202-2747)
Swissair
Maker Chambers VI, J Bajaj Marg,
Nariman Point (287-2210)
Thai International
15 World Trade Centre Arcade, Cuffe Parade
(215-5301)
TWA
Amarehand Mansion, Madame Cama Rd
(282-3080)
United Airlines
Podar House, 10 Marine Dr (204-7027)
Domestic Airlines
Indian Airlines
Air India Building, Nariman Point (2202-3031)
Reservation desks in the Taj Mahal Hotel
and the Centaur Hotel, Juhu Beach
Jet Airways
Maker Chamber-III, Nariman Point (2285-5788)
Sahara India
7 Tulsiani Chambers, Free Press Journal Marg,, Nariman Point
(2283-5671/2; fax 287-0076; Toll Free: 1600-1154466)
Damania
17 Nehru Road Vakola, Santa Cruz (282-5285)
Archana
(834-9686; fax 835-2517)
Gujarat Airways
(617-7063; fax 617-7064)
Train There are two different
railway system in Mumbai and four different long distance train stations.
Central Railway trains depart from Victoria Terminus (Mumbai VT), in
the center of the city, for the east and south. A few trains also depart
to northern Rajasthan and Delhi. It is a ten-minute ride from the Colaba
area. Victoria Terminus has a good Foreign Tourist Bureau from which
you can purchase tourist quota tickets. They are also helpful in planning
itineraries and providing other useful information. Tourists must first
secure an authorization slip from the tourist information booth on the
main railway station concourse before going to the tourist counter (Counter
8) in the Computerized Reservations System Building office next to the
station (9 am to 1 pm and 1 to 4 pm daily).
There,
you can make reservations for any train leaving from any of the Mumbai
stations. They also sell Indrail passes.
Mumbai
Central Station is the headquarters of Western Railways. It is located
several km north of the city center. Trains from this station depart
north to Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Delhi. You can get to Mumbai Central
by taking a local train from Churchgate Station. Churchgate Station,
near the center of the downtown, is mainly a commuter station. Western
Railway trains are booked at the reservation center across the street,
open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, and Sun 8 am to 2 pm. There is a reservation
center at Mumbai Central, but you cannot purchase tourist quota tickets
there.
Tourist
quota tickets are booked at the foreign reservation counters on the
mezzanine floor in the CRS building next to Churchgate Station, next
to the Government of India Tourist Office. Open Mon to Fri 9.30 am to
4.30 pm, Sat 9.30 am to 2.30 pm. To reserve a train, you must first
get a slip from the man sitting in the back of the room, then purchase
your ticket. Mr. Singh, who works at this office, is both knowledgeable
and helpful. Foreign tourists wishing to take a night train must purchase
the ticket the morning the train departs. Tickets for morning trains
must be purchased the day before. It is not usually possible to purchase
tourist quota tickets more than one day in advance, and tickets must
be paid for in foreign currency or in rupees after showing a recent
encashment certificate.
If you
get off a train at Churchgate Station, the CRS building is to your left
as you head toward the main entrance.
The third
long-distance station is Dadar in the northern part of the city. Some
of the Central and Western Railway trains stop there. Two trains to
Chennai and Goa depart from here. Central Railway trains departing Dadar
can be booked at VT Station. You can catch a local train from Dadar
to the downtown. Some trains to Calcutta, Varanasi, and Bangalore depart
from Kurla station, near the airport, 15km from the downtown. Getting
to these stations with luggage can be difficult by public transportation.
There is
a rail reservation counter at Mumbai’s international airport,
open from 11 pm to 7 am, to coincide with international flight arrivals.
There are many trains coming in and out of Mumbai daily. There are trains
to Agra (two daily, 24-27 hr), Ahmedabad (seven daily, 9-11 hr), Aurangabad
(one daily, 10 hr), Bangalore (2 daily, 24½ hr), Calcutta (four
daily, 33-40 hr), Chennai (three daily, 24-31 hr), Delhi (seven daily,
17-33 hr), Hyderabad (two daily, 15-18 hr), Jaipur (one daily, 23 hr),
Mangalore (one or two daily, 40-46 hr), Nasik (fourteen daily, 4 hr),
Pune (fifteen daily, 4 hr) Ujjain (one daily, 14 hr), Thiruvananthapuram
(one daily, 45 hr), and Varanasi (four daily, 28-31 hr). There are two
trains daily to Goa. The only place they stop in Goa is in the town
of Margao (Madgaon), south of Panaji.
If you
want to go north to Mount Abu or Udaipur, you can take a train to Ahmedabad
and from there, a train or bus. The Saurashtra Mail #9005 (8.10 pm,
21 hr, Mumbai Central) departs to Dwarka via Vadodara (5 hr) and Ahmedabad
(9½ hr). The Kashi Exp #1027 ( 6.35 am) departs daily to Varanasi
(28 hr) via Allahabad (24 hr) and the Kurla-Varanasi Exp #2165 (5 am)
departs to Varanasi (27½ hr) via Allahabad (24½ hr) on
Mon, Tue, and Sat.
Agra Punjab Mail #2137 (4.15 pm, 24 hr, VT); Ahmedabad Shatabdi Exp
#2009 (6.25 am, 7 hr), Gujarati Mail #2901 (9.50 pm, 9 hr); Aurangabad
Tapovan Exp #7617 (6.10 am, 9½ hr), Devgiri Exp #1003 (9.20 pm,
8 hr); Bangalore Udyan Exp #6529 (7.55 am, 24½ hr); Calcutta
Gitanjali Exp #2859 (6 am, 32½ hr), Mumbai-Howrah Mail #8001
(8.15 pm, 36 hr); Chennai Dadar-Chennai Exp #1063 (7.50 pm, 24 hr, Dadar
Station), Mumbai-Chennai Mail #6011 (2 pm, 27 hr, VT Station); Delhi
Rajdhani Exp #2951 (5 pm, 16 hr, daily except Mon, Mumbai Central),
Golden Temple Mail #2903 (9.30 pm, 22 hr); Goa Konkan Kanya Exp #0111
(10.30 pm, 12 hr, CST), Mumbai-Madgaon Exp #0103 (5.15, 11 hr); Guntakal
(for Hampi) Mumbai-Chennai Mail #6011 (2 pm, 19½ hr, VT Station);
Kochi Mumbai-Kanniyakumari Exp #1081 (3.35 pm, 40 hr); Pune Shatabdi
Exp #2027 (6.40 am, 3½ hr), Deccan Exp #1007 (6.35 am, 4½
hr), Deccan Queen #2133 (5.10 pm, 3¾ hr); Thiruvananthapuram
Kanyakumari Exp #1081 (3.30 pm, 45 hr).
Bus The Long Distance bus station (307-6622)
is opposite Mumbai Central railway station. The State bus companies’
offices for Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, and Karnataka are
located here. The MTDC luxury buses are the best buses. Some luxury
buses can be reserved in advance. The booking office is open from 8
am to 9 pm. It is a hectic place, so plan to arrive for your bus as
early as possible.
Making
a reservation can take a couple of hours. Private buses can be booked
and depart from travel agencies on Boman Behram Marg, near the Long
Distance bus station.
Most Maharashtrian
state buses depart and arrive at the ASIAD bus stand, beside the main
street in Dadar. It is a thirty-minute to one-hour taxi ride from the
downtown. A local train downtown from the Dadar railway station. To
get to this station, walk over Tilak Marg Bridge.
Most of
the private bus companies operate out of Ballard Pier in the Fort area.
Travel agents sell tickets for private buses to Goa (16 to 18 hr), which
are much better than the government buses. Deluxe buses cost Rs 250/350
and an A/C bus Rs 400/500. Buses usually depart between 3 and 6 pm from
near the Metro Cinema on MG Rd.
The MTDC operates deluxe buses to Nasik (Rs 100), Mahabaleswara (7 hr,
Rs 160), and Aurangabad (7.30 pm, Rs 200) which are booked at and depart
from the MTDC office on Madame Cama Rd.
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