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Ujjain
is one of the holiest cities in India and is one of the sites for Kumbha-mela.
According to the Mahabharata’s Aranya-parva, Ujjain is one of
the seven sacred moksa-puris or sapta-puris. The others are Ayodhya,
Mathura, Haridwar, Kashi (Varanasi), Kanchipuram, and Dwarka. Ujjain
is about 55km north of Indore. It is said that Siva killed the demon
Tripura at Ujjain.
According
to Indian astrology, zero degrees begins in Ujjain.
Information
The railway runs through the middle of the city. Most of the hotels
are located near the railway station. The old city, where most of the
temples and the river ghats are located, is in the northwest section
of the city. The newer area is located in the southeast section of the
city.
There
is an MP Tourist Information counter at the railway
station. The staff there can arrange for a car rental. State Bank of
India, Udwaria Rd, east of the main bazaar.
Ujjain Kumbha-mela
The Kumbha-mela in Ujjain begins on the full moon day in Chaitra (March-April)
when Jupiter is in Scorpio and the Sun is in Aries. It continues for
a full month, until the full moon day (Purnima) in Vaishakha (April-May).
The drops of nectar fall in Ujjain at Ram Ghat, where the Shipra River
flows. About 3 million people come for the bathing. The three other
Kumbha-melas are held at Allahabad (Prayag), Haridwar, and Nasik. The
next Kumbha-mela will be held April-May 2004.
Gopal Mandir
This is a Krishna temple with a half metre (2 ft) tall silver Deity
of Gopal Krishna. His altar is made of inlaid marble with silver-plated
doors. Maharaja Daulat Rao Scindia’s queen constructed this beautiful
temple in the 19th century, and it is located in the bazaar in the center
of the city.
The
sanctum’s silver-plated doors are said to have been originally
in the Somnath Temple in Gujarat. The doors were taken to Ghazni, Afghanistan
by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1026, then to Lahore by Mahmud Shah Abdati. It
is said that the Maratha leader Mahadji Scindia recovered them and later
installed them in this temple.
Mahakaleswar
Temple
The Marathas rebuilt this large Siva temple in the 19th century. It
contains one of the twelve important Siva Jyotirlingas and attracts
thousands of pilgrims. It is by far the most visited temple in Ujjain
and is an interesting place to visit. Open to non-Hindus.
Vedh
Shala Observatory (Jantar Mantar)
Maharaja Jai Singh built an observatory here in 1730 similar to the
ones he built in Jaipur and Delhi. The keeper of the observatory offers
guided tours of the observatory and demonstrates how each instrument
is used. According to Indian astrology, the first meridian of longitude
passes through Ujjain. According to modern calculations, the Tropic
of Cancer is just to the north. The observatory is located about 3km
from the center of town.
Shipra
River and the Ghats
Ujjain is situated on the bank of the Shipra River, one of the westernmost
tributaries of the Ganges. It is believed that those who take bath in
this river will attain moksha (liberation). Bathing in the Shipra is
also said to cure aspirants of fever. The river flows north around the
western side of Ujjain, passing through Narasimha Ghat, Ram Ghat, Ganga
Ghat, Mangal Ghat, and Siddhavat before reaching Gadhi and Rana Pratap
Sagars. It then joins the Chambal River, which flows into the Yamuna,
which flows into the Ganges.
The
ghats along the river are interesting to walk along, especially early
in the morning and at sunset. Ram Ghat, located near the Harsiddhi Temple,
is considered important.
Vikram Kirti Mandir
This place houses the Scindia Oriental Research Institute, an archaeological
museum, and an art gallery. The Scindia Oriental Institute has a rare
collection of 18,000 old palm-leaf and bark-leaf (bhurja patra) manuscripts.
There is an illustrated manuscript of the Srimad-Bhagavatam in which
gold and silver were employed in the paintings. There is also a rich
collection of old Rajput and Mughal style paintings.
Sandipani
Muni’s Ashram
Ujjain is where Sandipani Muni instructed Lord xe "Krishna:Ujjain"
Krishna and Balarama. Ujjain was called Avantipura when Lord Krishna
studied here. Near Sandipani Muni’s ashram is Gomati Kund, the
place to which Krishna called the holy rivers so that his guru would
not have to go on pilgrimage. Also nearby is Ankapata, where Krishna
washed his writing tablets. The numbers 1-100 are found here on a stone,
which is believed to have been engraved by Sandipani Muni himself.
Kalideh
Palace
This interesting palace of the Mandu Sultans, built in 1458, is located
on an island in the middle of the Shipra River. It has a Persian style
dome and was restored in 1920 by Madhav Rao Scindia. It is now closed.
Other Places
The Harsiddhi Temple houses the murti of Annapurna
(Parvati, the wife of Lord Siva) sitting between Maha-Lakshmi and Maha-Saraswati.
According to the Siva Purana, this is where Sati’s elbow dropped
after she burned herself in a sacrificial fire. There are two large
lamps, which are sensational when lit during Navratri (Dussehra) in
Sept-Oct.
There
is an enormous Banyan tree at Siddhavat on the banks
of the Shipra. It is said that Parvati performed penance there.
According
to the Matsya Purana, Mangalnath is the birthplace
of Mars. The Navagraha Mandir, dedicated to the nine
planets, is situated at Triveni Ghat on the Shipra River.
Near
the Mahakaleswar Temple tank, in the Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir
is a large deity of Ganesh known as Chintaman Ganesh. He is seated with
his consorts Riddhi and Siddhi.
The ancient Chintaman Ganesh Temple, on the other side
of the Shipra River, has intricately carved pillars.
Where to Stay
Most of the hotels are by the railway station and for the most part
are reasonably priced.
Vikram (256-2220), opposite the railway station, Subash
Rd, is the least expensive, but you should make sure it is decently
clean. Rooms are Rs 90/115 and bigger rooms are Rs 150/175 with TV.
Surya Hotel (256-0747) next door, has rooms with hot
water from Rs 150/175 to Rs 300/350 with TV.
Chandragupta (561-600) has rooms for Rs 125/150 to
Rs 150/225. Free hot water in a bucket. 24-hour checkout. Both these
hotels are a good value.
Hotel Rama Krishna (255-7012) has rooms for Rs 350/400
with bath to Rs 650 for an A/C room. It also has some basic rooms for
Rs 150/175.
Hotel Ajay (255-0856) has rooms for Rs 160/185 and
Rs 325/400 with a TV and air-cooler. It is a decent budget choice and
a good value.
Hotel Free India (555-457), next to the railway station,
has good, large rooms with hot water for Rs 350. It has a vegetarian
restaurant.
Girnar Hotel (25873), a ten-minute walk from the railway
station, has clean, quiet rooms for Rs 300/350 and Rs 450 with A/C.
Atlas (25873), Station Rd, Indore Gate, is a well-managed,
mid-range place with rooms with bath.
Shirpra Hotel (255-1496 /5) has clean rooms with bath
and hot water for Rs 450/550 and Rs 950/1050 with A/C. It is one of
the best places in town and is located in a quiet area. To get to this
hotel from the railway station, exit at platform 7.
Surana Palace (57411), 23 GDC Rd, is about the same
as the Shipra Hotel. It has a nice lawn and large comfortable rooms
and luxury suites. Well-managed.
Where to Eat
Chanakya, next to the Hotel Chandragupta and across
from the railway station, is a very good vegetarian restaurant.
Next door, the Sudama Restaurant, Subhash Rd, \is also
good. It has good vegetarian dishes and ice cream.
New Raj Kumar, 20 Bhaktawar Ganj, is a low-priced vegetarian
place by the Surana Palace.
White House, in the Surana Palace Hotel, 23 GDC Rd,
has an outdoor restaurant serving good Indian and Chinese food. Not
too expensive.
Travel
Train The Malwa Exp #9367 (2.55 pm, 17½
hr) is the fastest train to Delhi. The Malwa Exp #9368 leaves Delhi
at 7.15 pm and arrives in Ujjain at 10.35 am via Mathura, Agra (13 hr),
Gwalior (10½ hr), Jhansi (9 hr), and Bhopal (4 hr).
The
Avantika Exp #2962 (5.30 pm, 12½ hr), goes to Mumbai . You could
also take a train to Nagda (1½ hr), then take the Frontier Mail
(11 hr, 6 pm) to Mumbai. The Narmada Exp #8233 (5 pm) goes to Bhopal
(5 hr) and Jabalpur (13 hr). Indore Narmada Exp #8234 (11 am, 2 hr),
Intercity Exp #9204 (8.40 pm, 1¾ hr).
There
are three trains daily to Ahmedabad, including the Bhopal-Rajkot Exp
#1270 (11.10 am, 9½ hr) and the Sabarmati Exp #9166 (9.05 pm,
11 hr). The Sabarmati Exp #9165 returns to Ujjain from Ahmedabad at
7.55 pm and arrives at 5.35 am. At 6.05 am, the Sabarmati Exp continues
on to Varanasi (32½ hr) via Lucknow (22½ hr) and Faizabad
(Ayodhya). There are also trains to Agra, Jhansi, and Calcutta.
An auto-rickshaw
from the railway station to the Mahkaleshwar Temple should be around
Rs 25
Bus
There are a number of buses to Indore (2 hr, 55km), and two buses a
day to Mandu and Bhopal (5 hr).
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