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Pop: 1.65 million Area
Phone Code: 0731
Indore, the second largest city in Madhya Pradesh, is a fast-moving,
modern business and industrial town with not much to do in it. You may
pass through here on the way to Ujjain, Omkareswar, or Mandu.
Indore became the capital of the Holkar dynasty during the 18th century
when the dynasty controlled a large part of India. Rani Ahilya Bai (died
1795) built temples and philanthropic establishments across India.
Information
The helpful MPTDC Tourist Office (252-8653) is behind
the Ravindra Natya Griha Exhibition Hall on RN Tagore Rd. (10 am to
5 pm). They can arrange tourist taxis, and also run a one-day tour to
Omkareswar and Maheshwar (Rs 350), as well as a two-day tour to Mandu
(Rs 500).
The State Bank of India on AB Rd, next to the GPO,
changes cash and travelers cheques. The State Bank of Indore,
on Raj Wada, changes money. The Bank of Baroda, Agra-Bombay Rd, near
the GPO, accepts Visa cards.
Rupayan, in the Central Hotel, and Badshah
Bookshop, in the City Center shopping center, MG Road, are
good bookshops.
After 10 pm there is a fifty-percent surcharge on auto-rickshaw fares.
Travel agencies: Royal Tourist Service (434-730),
164 RN Tagore Rd; and President Travels, in the Hotel
President (533-472), 163 RN Tagore Rd.
Internet at Central Telegraph Building
in Nehru Place. Rs 40 per half hour.
Lal Bagh Palace
The Lal Bagh Palace (daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm) is one of the most
elaborate palaces in India. This extravagant palace, which took thirty
years to build, was the former home of the Maharaja. Its gate is a copy
of the gate at Buckingham Palace. It has crystal chandeliers, marble
pillars, stained glass windows, and antique furniture. On the ground
floor are the Durbar hall (assembly hall), billiards room, and the ballroom.
There is a small collection of tribal items. Admission Rs 5. Camera/video
Rs 10/50
Central Museum
The Central Museum near the GPO has an interesting collection of 11th
and 12th century sculptures and old deities found mainly in Madhya Pradesh.
There are some Harappan terra-cotta pieces found in Mohenjo Daro in
southern Pakistan. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm.
Other Places
Rajwada is the Old Palace of the Holkars. The gateway
is seven-storeys high. There is not much left of the palace due to damage
from three different fires.
Kanch Mandir (Mirror Temple) is an ornately decorated
Jain temple. It has glass chandeliers, and mirrors cover the walls and
ceilings. It has paintings inside depicting the Jain viewpoint of life
and the events following a person’s death.
Chhattri Bagh contains memorials to the previous rulers
of Indore.
The busy Kujuri Bazaar is an interesting place to
visit.
In the Bada Ganapati Temple, at the western end of
MG Rd, there is a 9m (30 ft) tall statue of Ganesh—said to be
the world’s largest.
Where to Stay—Lower
Most of the budget hotels are by the Sarwate bus stand and the railway
station, which are only a few minutes apart. The mid-range hotels are
a better value than the budget ones
.
Janta Hotel (name in Hindi), next to the Hotel Ashok,
is the least expensive.
Hotel Shalimar (462-481) is a good value with basic
rooms with bath for Rs 100/125.
Hotel Sagar International (462-630) has a selection
of large rooms for Rs 150/200. It is a good choice. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Neelam (246-6001) has rooms with TV for Rs 250/400
and Rs 650 with A/C. Rooms have hot water and are decently clean.
Nearby, the Hotel Ashoka (246-5991) 14 Nasia Rd, has
rooms with TV and hot water for Rs 250/325 and Rs 500/600 with TV and
A/C. 24-hour checkout. It is a good value.
Hotel Sagar (462-630) has big rooms with hot water
for Rs 225/300. 24-hour checkout.
Hotel Payal (247-8460), 38 Chhoti Gwaltoli, is a good
place with clean rooms with TV for Rs 300/400. Bucket hot water free.
It is near the bus station. 24-hour checkout. Recommended.
Where to Stay—Middle
To High
Samrat Hotel (433-889), 18/5 MG Road, is a large, good-valued,
modern place with nice rooms for Rs 350/450 and Rs 500/600 with A/C.
24-hour checkout.
Kanchan (251-8501; Email: kanchan@yahoo.co.in), Kanchan
Bagh, has clean. comfortable rooms for Rs 600/00 and Rs 800/1000 with
A/C. It is a good value.
Royal Residency (270-5677; fax 246-5377), 225 RN Tagore
Rd, has very clean comfortable rooms for Rs 750/900 and higher.
Tourist Bungalow (252-1-818), RN Tagore Rd, has rooms
with A/C for Rs 650/800.
Surya Hotel (521-155; fax 518-774), 575 Nath Mandir
Rd, is a quiet place with modern rooms with TV for Rs 650/850 and Rs
900/1100 with A/C. Some rooms have a balcony. Recommended.
Shreemaya Hotel (514-081; fax 527-680), near the railway
station, is a good place with rooms for Rs 400/500 and Rs 550/650 with
A/C. You can change money here. Recommended.
Hotel President (528-866; fax 512-230), 163 RNT Marg,
with a turbaned doorman, has good, comfortable rooms with A/C for Rs
950/1200. There are also higher-priced rooms. It has a sauna and health
club, and the vegetarian Woodlands Restaurant is excellent. Recommended.
9 am checkout.
Taj Malwa (433-884) 585/2 MG Rd, Palasia, is a pleasant,
modern place with comfortable rooms. It is a good value. 9 am checkout.
The four-star Indotels Manor, AB Rd, 4km from the center
of town, is one of the best places in town with rooms for Rs 1000/1200
up to Rs 2500 for the Maharaja Suite. It has a pool and a good restaurant.
Taj Residency (557-700; fax 555-355), near Meghdoot
Gardens, 5km from downtown, is a deluxe place with rooms for $75/85.
Recommended.
Where to Eat
Apsara, at the Tagore Natya Griha Hall, in front of
the Tourist Bungalow, is popular with the locals. Recommended. The macaroni
and vegetable pulao are both good.
Woodlands Restaurant, at the Hotel President, 163 RNT
Marg, is a high-class and excellent South Indian vegetarian place. Recommended.
Food Place, City Center shopping complex, MG Rd, has
good South Indian food.
Indian Coffee House, MG Rd, serves good food. Inexpensive.
Shreemaya Hotel, RNT Marg, has a popular, good South
Indian restaurant.
Volga Restaurant, Regal Theatre Premises on MG Road,
is a high-class place.
Status Restaurant, ground floor of Hotel Purva, 565
MG Road, is a good place with very good Rajasthani lunch thalis (Rs
40).
Hotel Surya has a good restaurant.
Travel
Air Indian Airlines (243-1594; airport: 411-782) has
daily flights to Mumbai ($125) and flights to Delhi ($175) via Bhopal
($85) and Gwalior ($100).
Indian Airlines office (243-1595), Race Course Rd.
Jet Airways (254-4590; Airport: 410-452).
The airport is 9km west of the city center. An auto-rickshaw costs
about Rs 70 and a taxi Rs 150 to the hotel area.
Train
The reservation office is across the street from the station. Open Mon
to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, Sun 8 am to 2 pm. Trains departing from Delhi and
Chennai can be reserved here.
Trains to Delhi go by two routes: the daily Indore-Nizamuddin Exp #4005
departs 4 pm from Indore via Ujjain and Bharatpur and arrives in Delhi
at 6.10 am. The Malwa Exp #9367 (2 pm) takes the other route—via
Bhopal (6 hr), Jhansi (11 hr), Gwalior (13 hr), and Agra (14½
hr)—and arrives in Delhi at 7.50 am.
There are two trains daily to Chittorgarh, Ajmer, and Jaipur, in Rajasthan.
To get to Ajanta and Ellora, travelers must first go to Jalgaon, 55km
north of Ajanta. To get there you have to change trains at Khandwar
junction.
Bhopal Intercity Exp #9303 (6 am, 4¾ hr); Calcutta Shipra
Exp #9305 (8.10 pm, 36½ hr; Mon Thu, Fri); Jabalpur Narmada Exp
#8233 (3 pm, 15 hr); Jaipur Indore-Jaipur Exp #9773 (12 hr); Mumbai
Avantika Exp #2962 (3.45 pm, 15½ hr) .
Bus
There are two bus stands, the Sarawate bus stand (465-688),
near the railway station, and the Gangawal bus stand
(480-688), 3km west of downtown.
From the Sarawate Bus Station, there are regular buses to Ujjain (1½
hr) and Bhopal (5 hr). There are buses to Ajanta (12 hr, two direct,
5 am, 8.30 pm), Udaipur (12 hr), Jalgaon (8 hr, two daily), Omkareswar
(3 hr, regularly) and Maheshwar (3 hr, three daily).
There is a direct bus to Mandu from Gangawal bus stand (8 am) and from
Sarawate bus stand (2 pm). You can also take a bus to Dhar (45 min),
and another to Mandu. From the Sarawate station, there are several buses
to Dhar in the morning before 10 am. There are frequent buses to Dhar
from the Gangawal bus stand.
MPSRTC has four deluxe buses per day to Bhopal (5½
hr) from the Sarawate bus stand. MP Tourism runs an A/C express bus
(Rs 175) to Bhopal at 8 am and 3.15 pm from the Tourist Bungalow. This
bus meets the superfast Shatabdi Express coming to and from Delhi.
You can catch overnight luxury buses to Mumbai, Jaipur, Pune, Ahmedabad,
Nasik, or Aurangabad through private companies. The buses depart around
9 pm. Vijayant Travels is a reliable travel agency operating overnight
luxury buses to Mumbai, Nasik, Aurangabad, Nagpur, and other places.
Also reliable are Royal Travels, 164 RNT Marg, and Multani Sona Travels. |
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