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Pop: 27,000
Phone Code: 01982
Postcode 194100
Elevation: 3500m (11550 ft)
Leh,
located in a valley, is a peaceful, atmospheric place. It is a pleasant,
friendly town. The nine-storey Leh Palace is the main building in town.
Above the palace is the Victory Fort on top of Namgyal Hill. The old
town consists of a series of small winding streets. There are several
interesting sites and gompas in the area. The best time to visit Leh
is from May to September. In the winter, temperatures drop to –30ºC
and in the summer, temperatures are between 11ºC and 26ºC.
Orientation
Leh Palace is situated on the hill, north of town. Most of the hotels
and restaurants are south of the palace. Main Bazaar Road is the main
street, and along it are many shops and restaurants. The main bazaar
runs south to north through the middle of the town. Fort Road, the second
main street, runs west off the bazaar and then turns south. In the village
of Changspa, 2km west of town, there are many guesthouses popular with
long-term visitors.
Tourist Office
The J & K Tourist Office (252094) is on the road
to the airport about 3km south of the center of town,
There
is a Tourist Counter (252297), next to the Tourist
Bungalow on Fort Rd (daily except Sun 10 am and 4pm). They have a notice
board which can be useful to find trekking partners. They also rent
equipment.
Information
A video about the area is shown at the arrival area at the airport.
Ladags
Melong is a magazine that has information about Ladakh’s
culture and history.
Film
is often sold past the expiry date in Leh, so it is a good idea to check
for this.
The
Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre, on the way
to Shanti Stupa in Changspa, has meditation meetings daily except Sun
in the summer at 5.30 pm. They also offer five to ten day study courses.
Dr
Tsewang Larje, who has an office near the Old bus stand, prescribes
Tibetan medicine.
Snow White Dry Cleaners, opposite the
Dreamland
Restaurant, is a good laundry service. DZOMSA,
run by a women’s group, is a laundry service that washes the clothes
in the desert so as not to pollute the local water supply.
Sauna and Body
Care Centra (253350), Changspa Lane does massages and sauna..
Medical
& Hospital
Altitude sickness is common in Leh. For medical advice
on altitude sickness call 253-629 (24 hours)
If you have a serious problem go to Sonam Narbu Memorial Hospital
(SNM) (252360, 252014), 3km south of Leh. You can also contact
a doctor through a higher-class hotel.
For medical
emergencies called 102 for ambulance or 252-018
for police.
Post,
Phone & Internet
The GPO is located 3km south of the center of town.
There is a post office at the intersection of Main Bazaar and Fort roads.
There is another post office in the Main Bazaar.
There
are various place for Internet connections who charge
around Rs 2 a minute. There are often problems with connections here
and the best time to connect is in the early morning. Gypsy's
World, on Fort Rd, has Internet facilities
(daily 9 am to 9 pm). Cyberia in the High Life Restaurant
is a good place for Internet.
Money
You
can change money at the Forex counter next to the Tourist
Bungalow (Mon to Fri 10am-2 pm, Sat 10.30 am to noon).
Travellers Cheques and currency can be possible to change money at the
State Bank of India.
Jammu
Bank Kashmir Bank Main Bazaar Rd (Mon-Fri 10 am to 2 pm, Sat
10 am to noon).
International
Money Exvchange (252-139) Main Bazaar (hr 9 am to 7 pm) is
a good place to change money. May be able to give credit card advances.
The
Khangla Chan Hotel and Singye Palace Hotel,
on Airport Rd, change money.
Permits
No permits are required to visit Leh. To visit certain areas in Ladakh
a permit is required. Permits are issued at the District Magistrate’s
Office (52210) near the polo grounds.
Health Warning
Because of Leh’s high elevation, it is not uncommon for visitors
to experience altitude sickness. It is best, therefore, to keep activities
to a minimum for the first couple of days. Altitude sickness takes a
day or two to develop.
Symptoms
are headaches, difficulty breathing, and stomach aches. You should drink
plenty of non-alcoholic fluids.
The
water in Leh is notoriously bad. Therefore, it is highly advised to
drink either bottled water, to treat the water, or to drink boiled water.
Meat
is also highly suspect because much of the meat is transported in unrefrigerated
trucks into Leh. There are absolutely no health regulations in relation
to meat and its transport in India. Bad meat is a major cause of disease
in India. It is best to avoid meat-eating in Ladakh.
Travel Agencies
Rimo Expeditions (253-257; Web Site http://www.atray.com,
Hotel Kangihachen) near the Hotel Khang-la Chhen, is an established
general travel agency that arranges treks and white-water rafting.
Druk
Travels, in the Hotel Ibex on Fort Rd; Ibex Tours and
Travels (52661); and Snow Leopard (52074; fax 52355) are established
at trekking and white-water rafting.
Gypsy's
World Treks and Tours, (253-659; fax 252-735), on Fort Rd in
the Main Bazaar, is a well-managed place.
Adventure
North (252-139; Email: advnorth@vsnl.com) in the Hotel Dragon
and Ladakh Adventure Travels (252458) in the Hotel
Ibex, are established travel agencies.
Indus Himalayan Explorers (w52735), across from the
taxi stand on Fort Rd, arranges white-water rafting.
Highland
Adventures in the Hotel Ibex and Ri-Mo Rafting
in the Hotel Kkang-la Chhen, are both established agencies that do white-water
rafting.
Explorra Trans Himalaya (253-048; fax 252-735; Email:
goba@vsnl.com) White House Fort Rd.
Explore Himalaya (252-727; fax 253-354; Web Site:
http://www.indiamart.com/explorehimalayas)
Chokhang Complex, Main Bazaar
Dreamland Trek & Tour (250-606; Web Site http://www.dreamladakh.com),
Fort Rd.
Cold Desert Adventures (252516), Fort Rd
Trekking
Equipment
Often trekking equipment can be a poor quality or be in a poor condition.
It is best to check the equipment closely before renting it.
Places
that rent equipment are Royal Express, near the Hotel
Ibex; Traveller Shop (52248) on Fort Rd, near the Indian
Airlines office; and Snow Leopard, across from the
taxi stand; and the Yak Hotel.
Mero Equipment
(253-070) Shamshu Complex hire out tent, sleeping bag and other
equipment
White-water
Rafting
Some travel agencies arrange white-water rafting on the Indus and Zanskar
rivers. These rivers are tame compared to rafting in Nepal, but still
a trip on them is a pleasant experience. The season is from July to
mid-September. From Hemis to Choglamsar is a calm ride. From Nimmu to
Khalsi is a better trip. Longer raft trips can be arranged.
Two routes are normally taken—from Nimmu to Alchi (2½
hr, Rs 1400) and from Spituk to the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar
at Nimmu (3 hr, Rs 1000). You should check that you have proper equipment
before setting out.
Bookshops and Libraries
Lost Horizon Books and Artou Bookshops,
in the main bazaar, are good bookshops with books about Ladakh and Tibet.
Bookworm, near the Hotel Ga-Idan Continental on Old Fort Rd,
has a good selection of used books in different languages. Tibetan
Handicraft Emporium, on Main Bazaar Rd, has books about Tibet.
You can get English Indian newspapers at Prakash Booksellers, next to
the German Bakery.
Leh Library, next to the Hotel Bijou, has books about Ladakh and English
newspapers. Open Mon to Sat 10 am to 4 pm. Tibetan Library in Choglamsar
has books about Tibet.
Leh
Palace
Built in the medieval Tibetan architectural style, this nine-storey
palace resembles a smaller version of the Potala in Lhasa, Tibet. It
was built in the 16th century and is no longer used. It is very run-down.
You should bring a flashlight and be careful where you walk. To get
into the maintained Dukhar Temple prayer room on the fourth floor, you
may have to find a monk. In the temple there is a thousand-armed deity
of the goddess Tara, musical instruments, and masks. There are very
good views from the terraces of the palace. Open daily 7 to 9 am and
sometimes 3 to 5 pm. Admission Rs 5 for Indians and Rs 100 for foreigners.
Namgyal
Tsemo Gompa
This gompa has a two-storey statue of Buddha, nice paintings, and ancient
manuscripts. This gompa, located in the north part of the city, was
built in 1430. The first building is the Maitreya Temple, which contains
a large statue of Buddha. The Gon-khang (protector deities temple) further
up the hill has good paintings. Open 7 to 9 am. You can walk or come
up to here by car (Rs 200 return).
Above the gompa is another ruined gompa, from which there are great
views. The climb up to this gompa is difficult.
Sankar Gompa
This interesting 17th century gompa, 3km north of the center of town,
belongs to the Gelukpa (“Yellow Hat”) order. There is a
library and an interesting Avalokiteswara (Buddhist deity of Compassion)
with eleven heads and a thousand arms. There are interesting paintings
in the Du-khang (main prayer hall), and good views from the roof. This
is the residence of Kushok Bakul, Ladakh’s head of the Gelukpa
order. Open daily 7 to 10 am and from 5 to 7 pm. Prayers at 6 pm.
It is a nice walk to this place. You get here by turning left at the
junction past Ali Shah’s Postcard Shop, then make a right at the
concrete path running along the stream. It is about a thirty-minute
walk.
Shanti
Stupa
The Dalai Lama opened this impressive stupa in 1985. It is known as
the “Japan Stupa” because Japanese Buddhists built it. There
are some very good views from where the stupa is located and it is a
hard climb to the top. The stupa has gilded panels depicting scenes
from the Buddha’s life. The stupa is located about 3km west of
Fort Rd, on the road going to Changspa, and costs Rs 150 round trip
by taxi.
There
are five guest rooms at the stupa, but there is nowhere local to eat.
Ladakh
Ecological Development Group
This place (LEDeG) promotes ecological issues, organic farming, solar
energy, cottage industries, and publishes books. They show an interesting
video, Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh, daily except Sunday, if
there are at least ten people in attendance. It has a popular library
and a good handicraft shop. This place is a five-minute walk north of
the main bazaar, next to the Tsemo-La Hotel.
Phone: 253-221;
Fax: 252-284; Email: ledeg@vsln.org. Hours: April to Oct. 10am-4pm.
Nov March 10:30am-1:30pm & 2pm-4pm Monday to Sat.
Chortens and Mani Walls
Chortens are tower-shaped
Tibetan equivalents of the Indian stupa. They are usually divided into
thirteen sections representing the soul’s progression toward nirvana.
Those that are found in gompas are often solid silver and are embedded
with semiprecious gems. They also usually contain the ashes or sacred
objects of important Rimpoches (incarnate lamas). They should always
be circled clockwise.
There
is a large, brightly colored Chorten between the main Leh bazaar and
the bus station. Near the chorten is the 500m long Mani Wall, built
by King Deldan Namgyal in 1635. These walls are constructed of many
stones inscribed with sacred prayers, usually Om Mani Padme Hum, which
means, “Hail to the Jewel in the Lotus.”
Shopping
Tibetan goods can be fairly expensive in Leh. Prices are much better
in Dharamsala or Nepal. Even if you are told a product is made in Ladakh
or that something is an antique, often this is not true.
You
can get Tibetan goods at the Tibetan Handicrafts Emporium on Main Bazaar
Rd
Ladakh Art Palace, off the main bazaar, has a good
selection of handicrafts and Buddhist products. Chang Tang Cooperative,
in Karzoo, a 5-minute walk from the LEDeG, has pashima shawls starting
at Rs 4000. Ladakh Village Curios has a good selection
of handicrafts.
The Tibetan Children’s Village Handicraft Centre
(TVC), up from the GPO, has good Tibetan carpets, thangkas and Nepali
clothing at reasonable prices.
Ali Shah’s Postcard Shop, a two-minute walk north
of the main bazaar, has postcards, photos of Ladakh, stationary, and
up-to-date film, including slide film.
The
Ecology Centre (LEDeG) has good traditional clothing.
They also have a place in the bazaar.
Cultural Shows
Ladakh Artists’s Society of Leh has good performances
of Ladakhi music and dance daily in the summer outside the Leh Palace
at 5.30 pm (Rs 50). You may need a flashlight (torch) for the walk home.
Cultural
and Traditional Society (CATS) arranges a cultural show opposite
the Hotel Yak Tail at 6 pm.
Where
to Stay
Most of the hotels in Leh are only open from July to the end of September.
Outside the high-season you can often get up to a 50% discount on a
room. Often a 10% service charge is added to the price of the room.
Ask about this before checking in. There are three main areas to stay:
the old town, the newer area of town, and the village of Changspa.
Where to Stay—Lower
in Old Town
Near the Leh Palace on the road going to Sankar Gompa there are several
places to stay.
Old Ladakh Guest House (25295) has traditional Ladakhi
rooms with common bath for Rs 300/550 and Rs 800 with bath. It is a
friendly place with character. A little north of the polo ground Has
a courtyand. Hot bucket water is free. Compare their trek price with
others.
New Antelope Guest House (252086) is a popular place
with clean rooms for Rs 200/250. It has a quiet garden.Good place.
Hotel Kailash has rooms with common bath for Rs 225.
It has a garden.
Between the Old Ladakh Guest House and the polo grounds there are several
places.
Sabila Guest House has rooms with common bath for Rs
150/250.
Tak Guest House is a popular place with rooms with
common bath for Rs 250
Firdous Hotel, next to the archery stadium, has rooms
with common bath for Rs 150 and Rs 200 with bath.
Shalimar Guest House is a popular place with clean
rooms for Rs 150.
Khan Manzil Guest House has decent rooms with common
bath for Rs 150/175.
Where to Stay—Lower
in Changspa
Changspa is around a 10-minute walk from the center of town. Many of
the places in this area have nice gardens.
Tsavo Guest House has basic rooms in a traditional
Ladakhi house for Rs 175.
Larchang Guest House has rooms for Rs 175/200.
Eagle Guest House, opposite the Mahabodhi Center, has
rooms for Rs 300/350. It has valley views. Nice place with a big garden.
Helpful place who can help arrange treks.
Past the Changspa area are many family-run guesthouses.
Oriental Guest House (253-153; 252-414; Email: orientalleh@hotmail.com)
is a friendly place with clean rooms for Rs 150. Friendly, helpful family-run
place. Good place to meet place. Internet access and can help arrange
eco-travel tours.
Rinchens Guest House has clean rooms with bath for
Rs 225.
Karzoo Guest House has basic rooms with common bath
for Rs 150/235. Bucket hot water. It has a nice garden.
Rainbow Guest House has clean rooms with common bath
for Rs 200/240.
Two Star Guest House is a friendly place that has basic
rooms with common bath for Rs 175/250 and Rs 225/350 with bath.
Maryul Guest House has rooms with common bath downstairs
for Rs 250, other rooms with common bath for Rs 350/400, and Rs 450
with bath.
Other
Areas
On the road next to the German Bakery are several places.
Dehlux Hotel, Karzoo, has quiet rooms with common bath
for Rs 175/225. Bucket hot water.
Ti-sei Guest House (252-404) has a peaceful garden
and rooms for 175/250. It is a good value. Have a nice garden. Friendly
place.
Stream View Guest House, 39 Upper Tukcha Rd, has good
rooms with common bath for Rs 175/250.
Jigmet Guest House,(253-563; fax 252-414; Email: siggelden@123india.com)
next door, has clean spacious rooms with common bath for Rs 300 and
Rs 400 with bath. Nice flower garden. Nice place.
Along Library Road there are several nice guesthouses.
Nezer View Guest House is a good place with rooms with
common bath for Rs 300.
Hotel Hills View (52258), near the tourist office,
has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 150/200 and Rs 350 with a bath.
It has a nice garden and some rooms have good views.
Kang La has rooms with bath for Rs 200.
Pangong Hotel (252-300), next door, has good large
rooms with hot water for Rs 600/600.Has a courtyard garden Have a cybercafe.
Where to Stay—Middle
Indus Guest House(252-502) is a popular place that
has rooms with hot water for Rs 400. Upstairs rooms are better. Open
in the winter.
Bimla Guest House has nice rooms with common bath for
Rs 300/400 and with bath and hot water for Rs 400/500.
Hotel Choskar has pleasant rooms for Rs 700. It is
a good value.
Yasmin Guest House (252-405) has rooms with bath and
hot water for Rs 750. It is a good place with a nice garden. Efficient
service and is a good value.
Hotel Rockland has rooms for Rs 800.
Hotel Dragon (252-139 252339; fax 252-720; Email: advnorth@vsnl.com),
Old Leh Rd on Library Rd, has modern rooms built around a courtyard
with bath and hot water for Rs 1700/1800. It has a good restaurant.
It is recommended, but is usually full. Pleasantly decorated rooms with
balconies. Friendly place. Has Adventure North inside who can change
money.
Where
to Stay—High
Khangri Hotel has rooms with local furniture for Rs
1500/1800.
Hotel Yak Tail (252-118) has rooms for Rs 1500/1800.
It has good facilities. Pleasant atmosphere with nice rooms. Does money
exchange.
Hotel Ga-Iden Continental (252-173; fax 252-414), Old
Fort Rd, has rooms for Rs 1700/2000.
Tsemo La (252281), Karzoo, near the LEDeG, has comfortable
rooms with hot water for Rs 1200/2200. It has a nice garden and good
views.
Yak Tail (252118), Changspa, has rooms for Rs 1500/1700.
It is open in the winter.
Ibex (252412), Fort Rd, near the bazaar, has rooms
for Rs 1400/1700.
Hotel Omasila (252119) has rooms for Rs 2400/2600.
It has a peaceful location.
Tsomo-Ri (252471) is a recommended place with rooms
for Rs 2400/2700.
Bijoo (252331), near the library and the bazaar, is
a friendly place with a nice garden that has good rooms for Rs 2400/2600.
It has a good restaurant with a buffet.
Lharimo (252301) has good rooms with mountain views
from the balconies for Rs 2300/2500. It is a good place.
Where to Stay—Winter
Most of the places close in the wintertime. In the winter prices are
fairly high to pay for heating. Old Ladakh Guest House;
the Hotel Ibex, Fort Rd, opposite the taxi stand and
Khangri Hotel usually stay open.
Where to Eat
Tibetan Kitchen, west end of Fort Rd, makes good Tibetan
and Chinese food. It is a nice place with good service. Main dishes
Rs 75.
Centerpoint, Fort Rd, in the Tsomo Hotel has Ladakhi
food. Gezino, Fort Rd, is a popular cheap place.
Mughal Darbar, Main Bazaar Rd, has good Indian food.
Dreamland Restaurant, in the Dreamland Hotel, is a
popular Tibetan place, but also serves good Indian, Chinese, Western
and breakfasts. It is pleasant place.
Ibex, Fort Rd, opposite the taxi stand in the Hotel
Ibex, has very good Indian food.
Pumperknickel German Bakery, Old Fort Rd, has good
baked goods, breakfasts and lasagna.
Instyle German Bakery, Fort Rd, is a relaxed terrace
place that has good breakfasts, sandwiches and baked goods.
Tibetan Friends, near the taxi stand, is a popular
place with good Tibetan food.
Kokonor, down a side lane on the main street, has good
Chinese and Tibetan food.
Mona Lisa, near the Ecology Centre, is a popular place
that has very good Indian, Tibetan and Western food. It has shady trees
to sit under during the daytime.
La Montessori, Main Bazaar Rd, has good Tibetan, Western
and Chinese food.
Amdo has good Tibetan and Chinese and Western food.
Summer Harvest, near the Hotel Yak Tail on Fort Rd,
is a popular place serving good Continental food.
La Terrasse, near Soma Gompa, has good breakfasts.
It has a pleasant terrace to sit on.
Local Travel
To go from the bus stand to Fort Road and most of the hotels costs about
Rs 50. Taxis stay mainly at three different stands and do not drive
around looking for customers. Prices are fixed by the taxi union and
are listed at the taxi stands. During the off-season, you can often
receive a 40% reduction from the fixed price. It is best to deal directly
with the taxi driver and not to go into the office.
The
largest taxi stand, No 1 (257-723), is on Fort Rd and is open 7 am to
7 pm. There are also taxi stands at the New bus stand and the Old bus
stand. Taxis stay on Fort Road in the early morning, waiting for people
going to the airport or the New bus stand.
Scooters can be hired from Yasmin Trek &
Tours on Fort Rd; Oasis Travels, near the
Indian Airlines office and Yati Travels, in the Main Bazaar. They cost
around Rs 700-800 per day plus petrol. Planet Himalaya
(253-433), Compa Complex rents Enfields for Rs 700-900 per day. Enntrax
Tours (250603, near the Khangri Hotels, is a very good place
to rent a moped or motorbike..
Mountain
bikes can be hired at the Lost Horizon travel agency,
opposite the Hotel Yak Tail; Explore Himalayas (252727), Mair Bazaar
and Highland Adventures in the Hotel Ibex for around
Rs 350 per day.
Travel
It is best to book plane and bus tickets as far in advance as possible,
especially at the end of the season.
Air
A taxi from the airport (252255) is Rs 250 to the main bazaar in Leh
and Rs 200 to the Changpa area where many of the hotels are located.
There
may be an airport bus. Indian Airlines (252076), Fort
Rd, is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm and Sun 10 am to noon; closed 1
to 2 pm for lunch. It can be a busy place, so it is best to be there
before it opens. In the beginning and at the end of the season, after
the road passes close and after the summer festival, the demand for
tickets to leave Leh is the worst.
Jet
Airways (250999), Main Bazzar Rd has daily flights to Delhi.
Hours: Daily 10 am to 5 pm
Between June and September, Indian Airlines has four flights a week
to Delhi ($135), a weekly flight to Srinagar ($85) and Chandigarh ($100)
and two flights a week to Jammu ($95).
You may want to fly to Chandigarh, if the flights to Delhi are very
booked up (not unusual). Between October and May, Indian Airlines normally
flies four times a week to Delhi, but flights are often canceled because
of weather conditions. If this happens in Leh, passengers are given
a place to stay.
Flights
are often very booked up, so you should reserve a ticket well in advance
(a month or more). If you are on the waiting list you should arrive
at the airport early to try to get a seat on the flight.
Security
is tough leaving Leh and if you have batteries or a knife in your carry-on
luggage it will be taken from you. It will be given to the pilot and
returned to you when you arrive at your destination.
Bus
There are two routes to get to Leh by road, either from Manali (485km)
in Himachal Pradesh or from Srinagar. You should book buses in advance
at the New bus stand, but this may not always be possible at the end
of the season, because of weather conditions.
The
road between Manali and Leh is usually open from July to the middle
of September, but it can often extend until mid-October. Whether the
road is open depends on snow conditions. This trip takes two days and
is uncomfortable, but the views can be great. There are more details
about this trip further on in this chapter. Yasmin Treks and Tours,
opposite the Dreamland Restaurant on Fort Rd, books HPTDC buses and
private minibuses after the government buses stop running on September
15.
The
road between Srinagar and Leh is usually open from mid-June to late-October,
depending on weather conditions. The 435km trip takes about two days
traveling around 12 hours each day, stopping in Kargil for the night.
Bus tickets go on sale the day before between 4 and 5 pm at the J&KSRTC
office at the Town bus stand.
Taxi & Jeep To travel between Leh and Manali is around Rs 11,000.
There are fixed prices for different routes, but for long distances
these rates can often be bargained down.
You
may be able to get a taxi cheaper to Manali, if you find a taxi driver
who is from Manali and wants to return quickly.
It
costs Rs 250 extra for an overnight stop. The first hour of waiting
time is free and additional hours are fixed at Rs 110 per hour.
Truck
You can ride in a truck to Manali. You can ask at the truck stop on
the road to the airport for a ride.
If you know of
a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update
our listings, please e-mail us at:
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