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Mysore
Pop:
745,000 Area
Phone Code: 0821
Postcode 570005
Elevation 770m
Mysore
is 139km southwest of Bangalore and is called the Sandalwood City, because
it contains many sandalwood, rose, jasmine, and other flowering trees.
This is where much of the incense and sandalwood oil in India is made.
Also many carved products made of ivory, sandalwood, rosewood and teakwood
are made here.
This
is one of the most popular cities in South India for foreigners because
both the city and the surrounding areas have interesting places to visit.
The city has a pleasant atmosphere, with relatively cheap and good accommodations.
Mysore
is an old city that has almost always been ruled by Hindus—in
succession by the Cholas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagar, and Wodeyar dynasties.
In 1759, the Hindu Wodeyars were overthrown by one of their Muslim generals,
Hyder Ali. After killing Hyder Ali’s son, Tipu Sultan, the British
reinstated the Wodeyars. Mysore is a city of palatial buildings, including
seventeen palaces.
The city
gets its name from Mahishasura, a demon who caused
trouble to the people in the area until Goddess Chamundi killed him.
The famous Dussehra festival takes place in Sept/Oct. On the tenth day
of this festival there is a victory procession to celebrate the killing
of Mahishasura with elephants, horses, bands, floats, and gold and silver
coaches. Chamundi is the family deity of the Wodeyars,
the ruling family of Mysore from the 15th century until Independence.
The
city is at an altitude of 770m (2540 ft), so the climate is nice all-year
round. The weather is best between September and January, but is pleasant
until April.
Nearby
Mysore, at Srirangapatnam, there is an important Vishnu
temple. At Somnathpur there is an ancient, beautifully carved temple
dedicated to Krishna called the Channakesava Temple.
Orientation
The main street in town is Sayaji Rao Rd, which goes north to south.
The railway station is in the northwest section of the city. The Central
bus station is in the northeast part of the city. The city palace takes
up a good section of the southern part of the city. Chamundi Hill is
south, past the city palace.
Information
The KSTDC Karnataka State Tourist Office (442-096;
fax 442-833) is at the Old Exhibition Building, Irwin Road. Hours: Mon-Sat
10am-5:30pm There is tourist office (423-652) at the Hotel Mayura Hoysala,
2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, and counters at the railway station and Central
bus stand.
The
Forest Dept office (520-901), Woodyard, Ashokpuram, provides
information on wildlife parks.
Kalamandir Auditorium (28185), Vinoba Rd, hosts dance,
classical Indian music, and folk dance performances.
Basappa
Memorial Hospital (512-401) and Holdsworth Memorial
Hospital (427716), Sawday Rd, are among the best hospitals
in town.
Tours
The KSTDC Mysore tour includes the Mysore Palace,
Chamundi Hill, Srirangapatnam, Brindavan Gardens, and Somnathpur. You
book the KSTDC tours at their office (22096) on Irwin Road, or at the
Hotel Mayura Hoysala, which is where the tour begins. The tour runs
daily in season (June to Sept). Private companies also run this tour.
The tours run by the private companies are booked at one of the many
travel agencies in town.
The
KSTDC Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelagola tour runs
daily in season (April to June and Sept to Nov) and four times a week
the rest of the year. There are also tours run by private operators
departing almost every day. It is better to use the KSTDC tour if possible,
as they use a luxury four-seats-across bus while the private companies
use small, bumpy (especially if sitting in the back) minibuses. Both
the private company and KSTDC tours pick you up at your hotel. This
is a good way to see the sites, as they are difficult to reach by public
transportation.
Money
The State Bank of Mysore (432-618), at the intersection
of Ashoka Rd and Irwin Rd, and their other branch at Sayaji Rao Rd (443-597),
changes money quickly.
The ICIC
Bank ATM at Narayana Shastri (open 24 hours), a little north
of Devaraj Urs Rd accepts International cards. LKP Forex
(420 090), Silver Tower Bldg, Ashoka Rd (near the clock
tower), exchanges Thomas Cook travelers checks.
The Bank
of Baroda, at Gandhi Square, gives advances on MasterCard and
Visa cards. Syndicate Bank, KC Circle, changes money.
Post
& Internet
The
GPO (442-165) is at the intersection of Irwin and Ashoka
Rds (Hours: Mon-Sat 10 am to 6 pm. Poste restante Mon-Fri
10 am to 4 pm, Sat 10 am-1pm. There is a post office
near KR Circle.
Niru
Communications (432-359) has internet facilities for Rs 50
per 30 min. Coca Cola Cyber Space, Nazarbad Main Rd, has internet access
for Rs 100 per hour.
Cyber
Net Corner, Hotel Indra Bhavan Bldg, Dhanvanthri Rd (Rs 25).
Internet World (430-713), Chandrapupta Rd, (Rs 30 per/hr),
open 24 hrs.
Shopping
Some good bookshops are Ashok Book Centre, Dhanvantri
Rd near Sayaji Rao Rd; Geetha Book House, New Statue
Square, at the end of Sayaji Rao Rd; Premier Book House,
Anand Vihar, Makkaji Chowk.
The
Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium, on the corner of
Sayaji Rao Rd and Irwin Rd, has a large collection of high quality handicrafts.
Recommended. Open 10 am to 2 pm and 3.30 to 7.30 pm. Closed Thursdays.
It is not cheap, but the quality is excellent. They accept credit cards
and will send your purchases home for you. They have an annex shop near
the Zoo.
The
Government Sandalwood Oil Factory (521-889), just off
Ambedkar Rd, is where about half the sandalwood oil in India is produced.
You can phone and arrange a tour of the factory, which includes an explanation
of how the oil is extracted and how incense is made. Open Mon to Fri
9 to 11 am and 2 to 4 pm.
The
Karnataka Silk Industry Factory (521-803), on Mananthody
Rd in Vidyaranyapuram, is about 3km from the downtown. You can phone
and arrange a tour of the factory. Open Mon to Sat 7.30 to 11.30 am
and 12.30 to 4.30 pm. From the City bus stand, bus #1A comes to here
and the Sandalwood Factory.
Mysore
is considered one of the best places to buy incense and sandalwood products
in India. You have to be careful, however, about purchasing sandalwood
products. Sandalwood oil is often put on other woods, which are then
sold as real sandalwood. Real sandalwood is expensive.
Medical
Basappa Memorial Hospital (512401) 22/B Vinoba Rd,
Jayalaksmipuram, a few km west of the downtown, is said to be good.
National
Parks
To book a place to stay in Bandipur National Park at Field Director
(480901), Aranyya Bhavan, Ashokapuram (bus No 61).
Mysore Palace (Amber Vilas)
This is one of the most impressive palaces in India. The highest point
of the palace is 44m (140 ft) high and the complex covers a 3.5 sq km
area. Construction on the palace was begun in 1897 during the reign
of Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, after the previous wooden palace had burnt
down. Henry Irwin, an Englishman, was the architect. The palace was
finished in 1912 at a cost of nearly Rs 4.2 million (a tremendous amount
of money a hundred years ago).
You
can see a few of the royal Wodeyar family’s private rooms. It
has a remarkable Durbar Hall, with a 200 kg solid gold throne, usually
only seen during Dussehra. The rest of the time the silver throne is
on display. The Durbar Hall’s floor is inlaid with precious stones.
In the Durbar Hall there are paintings of the Dussehra festival.
The
palace has a carved silver door, a magnificent stained glass ceiling,
and an excellent painting gallery. There are paintings of the Ramayana
and Mahabharata done by Raja Ravi Varma, one of India’s most famous
artists. The family jewel collection is on display. There are several
temples on the grounds, including the Sweta Varahaswami Temple with
its interesting gopuram.
On Sunday
evenings between 7 and 8 pm, and on festival days, the building is illuminated
by over 90,000 light bulbs. In another building on the palace grounds
there is a Museum containing many items.
Besides
temples, this palace was the most interesting building that I saw in
India. It reminded me of Buckingham Palace. The former Maharaja still
lives in a part of the palace, but that section is not open to the public.
The palace
(434425) is open daily 10.30 am to 5:30 pm; admission Rs 15. Visitors
enter only through the south gate. You can take a camel ride or an elephant
ride around the compound.
Chamundi Hill
On top of Chamundi Hill is the Shri Chamundeswari Temple,
dedicated to the consort of Lord Siva. The temple has a seven-storey,
40m high gopuram covered with intricate carvings. The tower of the temple
is 300 years old, but the foundation is 2,000 years old. The deity of
the goddess Chamundi is solid gold. The temple has a jeweled Nakshatra-Malike
with thirty Sanskrit slokas inscribed on it. Open 7 am to 12.30 pm and
4 to 8 pm.
There is
a 5m (16 ft) high statue of the demon Mahishasura near
the temple. Mahishasura was slain by the goddess Chamundeswari
(Durga or Parvati) to protect the area. Chamundi means “terrible”,
and it is another name for Parvati when she is revealing an angry mood
to slay the demon. The Godly Museum, near the Mahishasura
statue, contains dioramas depicting different stages of spiritual life.
Halfway
up the hill along the road is a 5m (16 ft) high, 7.5m (25 ft) long Nandi
Bull carved out of a large boulder.
The
Rajendrah Vilas Palace, built in 1939, is worth seeing.
There is a red velvet dining room. You can also ask to see the royal
bedrooms.
Chamundi Hill is 10km by road from Mysore and 1100m (3,489 ft) high.
There are good views from on top of the hill. You can walk the 4km to
the top of the hill, which entails climbing about 1,000 steps (takes
approximately 2 hr), or you can take a bus up and walk down.
City bus
#101 comes here (Rs 6, every half-hour) from the City bus stand. A taxi
up the hill will cost about Rs 250.
Jaganmohan
Palace (1861)
This interesting palace (423693) contains the Jayachamarajendra
Art Gallery. Jaganmohan Palace Rd. It has a collection of Raja
Ravi Varma’s oil paintings,
Gaganendranath
Tagore’s watercolors, musical instruments, old silk board
games, and an elephant tusk with the life of Buddha carved on it. Open
daily 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 10.
Mysore Zoo
This large, 250-acre zoo (http://www.mysore.org)
displays tigers (including a white tiger), gorillas, white peacocks,
lemurs, bears, and other animals. Open daily except Fri 8.30 am to 5.30
pm. Admission Rs 18 for adults, Rs 7for children between 5 and 10. Camera
15. It is one of the best zoos in India.
Other
Places
Devaraja Fruit and Vegetable Market is a happening,
fast-moving bazaar.
Lalitha
Mahal Palace (1921), in the east part of town, is an interesting
palace that has been converted into a luxury hotel. It is worth seeing.
St. Philomena’s Cathedral (1933-41) is one of
the biggest churches in India. It is built in the neo-Gothic style and
has some grand stained glass windows. Hours Daily 9 am to 6 pm. English
Mass Sun-Fri 7am.
There are
some architecturally interesting buildings in Mysore. Wellington
Lodge is where the Duke of Wellington stayed after defeating
Tipu Sultan.
The Government
House (1805), Irwin Rd, which was formerly the British Residency,
has a large garden. Hours: Daily 6 am to 9 pm
Near the
north gate of the Palace are the Rangacharlu Memorial Hall (1884)
and the Silver Jubilee Clocktower (1927).
There
is a Railway Museum, which includes an interesting
hundred-year-old railway carriage. Open 10 am to 1 pm and 3 to 5 pm.
Dussehra
(Dasara) Festival
The 10-day Dussehra Festival, at the end of September or beginning of
October, is the most important festival. It symbolizes the victory of
Chamundi (Durga) over the demon Mahishasura. The festival lasts ten
days, during which time a cart festival is held on top of Chamundi Hill
and a boat festival is held in the tank at the bottom of the hill. The
highlight of the festival is when the former Maharaja goes through the
streets in a grand procession with elephants and camels. At the end,
there is a huge fireworks display. The Mysore Palace is illuminated
every night during the festival.
It is difficult to find accommodations during the Dussehra Festival,
so book well in advance.
Where to Stay—Lower
Mysore is a popular tourist spot with many reasonably priced, but often
booked, hotels. The main areas for the budget hotels are Vinoba Rd,
Dhanvantri Rd, and Gandhi Square.
There are good Retiring Rooms at the railway station.
Hotel Sangeeth (424-693), 1966 Narayana Shastry Rd,
is a clean budget place with rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 150/225.
It is a good value.
Agrawal Lodge (422-730), just off Dhanvantri Rd, has
rooms with bath for Rs 150/200.
Hotel Ashraya (427-088) has good rooms with bath for
Rs 150/350.
Hotel Anugraha (430-768), at the junction of Sardar
Patel Rd and Sayaji Rao Rd, is a good value. Rooms with bath are Rs
125/200.
Hotel Mannars (35060), by Gandhi Square, is a good,
clean place in a relatively quiet area. Rooms with bath and TV are Rs
175/250.
Hotel Indra Bhavan (423-923. 423-933; fax 422-290),
Dhanvantri Rd, has clean, quiet rooms with bath for Rs 200/250 to Rs
400. It has a good A/C vegetarian restaurant. Popular.
Gayatri
Bhavan (421-224425-654), on Dhanvantri Rd, not far from the
train station, has rooms with common bath for Rs 125/175 and doubles
from Rs 250 to Rs 300.
Hotel Dasaprakash (442-444; fax 443-456; Email: dasaprakash@sancharnet.in),
near Gandhi Square, built around a central courtyard, is popular with
middle-class Indians. It has clean rooms for Rs 250/400 to Rs 300/550
and Rs 850 for a family room. It has a good vegetarian (thali only)
restaurant. 24-hr checkout.
The popular Hotel Park Lane (430-400, 434-340; fax
428-424, 428-424), 2720 Sri Harsha Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 175/225
to Rs 250/300. It is a clean, pleasant, quiet place located next to
a small park.
The well-managed Hotel Maurya (426-677), Hanumantha
Rao St, off Sardar Patel Rd, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 240/325.
It is a good value. Hot water in the morning.
Hotel SCVDS (421-379), next to the Hotel Park Lane, has modern
rooms with bath and TV for Rs 250/400. They often give discounts.
Hotel Calinga (431-310; fax 428-424), 23 KR Circle,
opposite the City bus stand in the southern part of town, has rooms
with hot water for Rs 225/300 and Rs 300/400 for a room with a TV. It
is a good place.
Where to Stay—Middle
Mysore Hotel Complex (426-217), near the bus stand,
is a big place with rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350 to Rs 900.
The more expensive rooms have A/C and a TV. It is built like an American
motel, and I would recommend it if you do not mind the impersonal design.
It is mainly used by middle-class Indians.
Hotel Roopa (33770), nearby on Bangalore-Nilgiri Rd,
has rooms for Rs 300/350 up to Rs 600 for a room with a TV.
Hotel Sree Krishna Continental (37042), 73 Nazarbad
Main Rd, has rooms for Rs 350 and rooms with A/C for Rs 650.
Hotel Siddharta (522-999; fax 520-692), 73/1 Government
Guest House Rd, near the long-distance Central bus station, is a good,
centrally located place with a vegetarian restaurant. It has rooms for
Rs 500/600 and Rs 650/750 with A/C.
Hotel Rajendravilas Imperial (520-690) is on top of
Chamundi Hill, 14km from town. The Maharaja of Mysore used to stay here
on weekends. It is a splendid-looking place with a good view of the
city. Rooms are Rs 350/500 and Rs 400/600 with A/C. It has a pool open
to non-guest for Rs 100.
Dasaprakash Paradise (515-565; 514-400), 105 Vivekananda
Rd, a few km from the downtown, is recommended. Clean rooms are Rs 950/1050
and Rs 1200/1500 with A/C. The vegetarian restaurant here is very good.
KSTDC
Hotel Mayura Hoysala (425-349), 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, by
the railway station, has large rooms with bath with hot water for Rs
450/600 and suites for Rs 850. It has a garden. The bus tours run by
KSTDC start here, and Indian Airlines have their office in this hotel.
Ritz Hotel (422-668; Fax: 435-777), Nilgiri Road, near the
Central bus stand, has good British-Raj style rooms with a nice atmosphere
for Rs 500 to Rs 700. It is a small place and is usually booked. Reservations
must be made at least a month in advance.
Hotel Palace Plaza (430-034; fax 520-639, 421-070),
2716 Sri Harsha Rd, has large, clean, comfortable, modern rooms with
bath and a TV ranging from Rs 750 to Rs 1100. Recommended and popular,
so best to reserve in advance.
Viceroy (428-001; fax 433-391), is a new, business-type
modern hotel with rooms for Rs 1100 and Rs 1500 with A/C. Rooms have
a good view of the park.
Where to Stay—Higher
Kings Kourt Hotel (421-142; fax 422-384; Email: kingskourt@vsnl.com),
junction of Vinoba Rd and Jhansi Lakshmi Bhai Rd, is a nice, large,
modern place with A/C rooms for Rs 1900/2500. It has more expensive
rooms and is very popular. It has two pool tables.
Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (571-265; fax 571-770; Email:
lmph@sancharnet.in), T Narasipur Rd, is a recommended place about 8km
from the center of town. It is such a nice hotel that it is worth visiting
as a tourist site. The Maharaja built it as a guest house. Rooms go
for $150/175 all the way up to $700 for the Viceroy Suite. The name
of the hotel means “beautiful building.” Has a pool, tennis
court and nice billiard table. Rooms can vary greatly so it is a good
idea to see a few places.
Green Hotel (512-536; fax 516-139; Email: grenhotl@sancharnet.in),
2270 Vinoba Rd, Jaya Lakshimipuram, is a former palace with a nice garden.
It has large rooms for Rs 1400 and deluxe place rooms for 2300/4500.
There are also rooms in an annex. It is a good place and has items of
the place still in place.
Quality Inn Southern Star Mysore (438-141, 426-426;
fax 421-689: Email sstar@sancharnet.in), 13-14 Vinoba Rd, has comfortable,
modern rooms from Rs 3000/4000 up to Rs 6500. It has a bookshop, helath
club, and a swimming pool (Rs 200 for non-guest).
Hotel Metropole (520-871; fax 520-854), 5 Jhansi Lakshmi
Bai Rd, by Vinoba Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 995/1090, Rs 1090/1200
for an A/C room and Rs 1200 for the deluxe suite. It was once the Maharaja’s
guesthouse, so it is a fancy place with old-world charm, and at this
level, is a recommended place. It has a well-kept garden and a nice
verandah.
Where to Eat
Kwality Restaurant, Dhanvantri Rd, serves Indian and
Chinese food.
Mylari Tiffin Room, in the Hotel Mahadeswara, Nazarbad
Main Rd, has good South Indian food. Great dosas are served in the morning
only. Recommended.
Shilpashri Restaurant, Gandhi Square, serves good Indian,
Continental, and Chinese food. It is a popular rooftop place (Rs 50
main dish).
Regency Restaurant, in the Hotel Metropole, has a good
garden restaurant (Rs 175 for a meal). The service is good.
Indra Paras Café, Sayaji Rao Rd, has good South
and North Indian vegetarian food.
Ritz Hotel, near the Central bus stand, has an outdoor
restaurant that serves Indian, Continental, and Chinese food.
Park Lane Hotel, Sri Harsha Rd, has a popular outdoor
restaurant.
Ilapur, 2721/1 Sri Harsha Rd, is a high-class place
specializing in Andhra and Chinese cuisine.Price $$.
Quality Inn Southern Star has good breakfast and lunch
buffets.
Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel has an excellent restaurant,
with classical Indian music performed at night. A meal here costs about
Rs 400.
Where to Eat—Vegetarian
Akshaya Restaurant, in the Dasaprakash Hotel, Gandhi
Square, has good, inexpensive thalis.
Dasaprakash Paradise, about 5km out of the city center,
is one the best restaurants in town and serves good ice cream.
Hotel Siddhartha, 73/1 Guest House Rd, about a half
km from the long-distance bus station, has a good vegetarian restaurant.
One part of the restaurant serves thalis and the other serves North
Indian side orders. Very popular.
Samrat, in the Hotel Indra Bhavan, Dhanvantri Rd, has
good, cheap, individual and thali meals for about Rs 60.
Local
Travel and Travel Agencies
You can arrange a tourist taxi for the day with the KSTDC for about
Rs 3.5 per km plus Rs 100 for the driver.
Buses
from the City bus stand go to Chamundi Hill (Rs 3, every half-hour)
#201, #101; Srirangapatnam (Rs 3, every half-hour) #125 and #313; Brindavan
Gardens (Rs 3, every half-hour) #150, #303, and #304.
An
established travel agency is Siddharta Tours and Travels (34155), Hotel
Siddharta, 73 Guest House Rd, Nazabad. Seagull Travels (529-732; fax
34653), in the Hotel Ramanshree, is a good travel agency and books high-end
trips the wildlife parks.
Travel
Air The closest airport is in Bangalore, 138km away.
Indian Airlines office (516-9432), next to the Hotel Mayura Hoysala
(Mon to Sat 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.15 to 5 pm).
Train
There are several daily trains to Bangalore (138km). The Tipu Exp #6205
(11.20 am, 2¼ hr) and the A/C Shatabdi Exp #2008 (2.10 pm, 2
hr) are the fastest trains to Bangalore. Other express trains take about
3½ hr. The Shatabdi Exp continues to Chennai (7 hr). The Mysore-Thanjavur
Exp #6232 (4.20 pm) goes to Thanjavur (15 hr) via Tiruchchirapalli (13
hr).
There is a slow train that goes north to Belur and Halebid via Hassan.
There is also a train to Mangalore. There is a new broad-gauge line
through Mysore, so new trains will be added to the schedule.
The
City railway station, just off Irwin Rd, is close to the center of town.
The Advance Reservations counters (Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, Sun 8 am
to 2 pm), off the main lobby, takes care of tourist inquiries and bookings.
The Commercial Superintendent’s Office across the street deals
with tourist quota reservations.
Bus There are three bus stations in Mysore: the Central
bus stand on B-N Rd (Irwin Rd), used mainly for long-distance buses;
City bus stand, for local buses; and a Private (also called Suburban)
bus stand, for private buses (across from the Ritz Hotel, a little south
of the Central bus stand). There is a cloakroom at the Central bus stand
where you can leave your bags if you are only visiting Mysore for the
day.
Buses
from Mysore go to Bangalore (3 hr, every 15 min, nonstop), Mangalore
(7 hr, eight daily), Hassan (3 hr, twelve daily), Hospet (12 hr, three
daily), Kochi (7 hr, eight daily), Ooty (5 hr, ten daily), Ernakulam
(12 hr, three daily), Gokarna (14 hr, one daily, 6 am), Thrissur (8
hr, two daily) via Guruvayur (7 hr), Tirupati, and Madurai.
There are frequent buses from the Central bus stand to Srirangapatnam.
The #125 bus from the City bus stand, which is northwest of the Palace,
goes to Srirangapatnam. Buses to Somnathpur depart from the Private
bus stand (1 hr direct or longer via Bannur or Narasipur).
Private
luxury buses go to Hassan and Ooty. Gayatri Tourism, opposite the Ritz
Hotel, books long-distance buses.
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