Karnataka

 

Population: 49 million
Capital: Bangalore
Area: 191,775 sq km
Best Time to Visit: Sept to February
Main Language: Kannada
Literacy Rate: 56%

There are some interesting historical and natural sites in Karnataka. The pleasant capital, Bangalore, is one of the most important computer and technological centers in India. Three hours southwest of Bangalore is the city of Mysore, a popular city for foreign tourists in South India. It has a fascinating palace. Between Mysore and Bangalore is the important Sri Ranganatha Vishnu Temple at Srirangapatnam.

North of Mysore there are interesting temples in the towns of Belur and Halebid. Further north is the all but deserted city of Hampi, which at one time had a population of over half a million people. Further north are Badami, Pattadakal, and Aihole, all of which have ancient temples. In the extreme north of Karnataka are the towns of Bijapur, Gulbarga, and Bidar, all onetime capitals of the Bahmini kingdoms which contains Muslims historical sites.

Karnataka has several important active temples and pilgrimage places. Udupi, on the coast near Mangalore, has the famous Sri Krishna Temple. This temple was established by the important Vaishnava saint, Madhvacharya. Further up the coast is an important Siva temple at Gokarna, the Mahaballeswara Temple. This area also has excellent and secluded beaches. There are also the highest waterfalls in India at Jog Falls.

History
It is said that Chandragupta Maurya, India’s emperor, became a Jain and renounced his kingdom. He retired at Sravanabelagola. In the 6th century, the Chalukyans built some of the earliest known Hindu temples in Aihole and Badami.

The Hoysalas, who ruled from the 11th to 14th centuries, built some of the best temples in India—in Belur, Halebid, and Somnathpur. In 1327 Mohammed Tughlaq’s Muslim army conquered the Chalukyans from Halebid. In 1346 the Hindu Vijayanagar kingdom gained control of the middle and southern parts of Karnataka. By the 1550s, they controlled a good part of south India. In 1565 the combined forces of the five Bahmani Muslim kingdoms defeated them and they lost control of Karnataka.

At this time, the five Bahmani kingdoms controlled northern Karnataka while the Wodeyars of Mysore gained control of southern Karnataka and other parts of South India. The Wodeyars ruled from Srirangapatnam until 1761, when one of their own generals, Hyder Ali overthrew them. Hyder Ali and his son, Tipu Sultan, with the support of the French, expanded their power.

Eventually the British defeated and killed Tipu Sultan in Srirangapatnam in 1799. They then returned the throne to the Wodeyars, who ruled until Independence, except for a period of fifty years beginning in 1830. In 1956, the areas where the language of Kannada was spoken were combined to form the present state of Karnataka.

Around Bangalore 

Brindavan Whitefield Ashram (Sai Baba’s Ashram)
The Ashram is located in Whitefield, 16km from Bangalore, on Madras Rd. Sai Baba’s main ashram is in Puttaparthi in Andhra Pradesh, where he spends most of his time. Sai Baba is usually here between March and May. He has quite a large following and he uses a good percentage of the money donated to construct hospitals and schools.

You can stay at Whitefield for about Rs 100 a night. For information call 845-2233. To get here, you can take bus #333E or #319C from the City bus stand. By train, take the Chennai Passenger 96, 10.30 am, 1 hr; or the Marikuppan 256, 6.45 am, or Marikuppan 254, 6.10 pm.

S Babu & Co (226-1351), Cauvery Continental Hotel, 11 Cunningham Rd, arranges transportation to the ashram. There is a half-day trip (Rs 250) to Whitefield for either morning or evening darshan.

Nrityagram Dance Village
This dance school is on Bangalore–Pune Highway, 30km west of Bangalore (080 846-6314). The school was established by Protima Gauri, one of the best Odissi dancers in India. Students come from all over India to learn traditional dance.

The school is open August to May. An hour-long lecture demonstration can be arranged on Odissi and Kathak dance at a cost of Rs 500 per person (four people minimum).

There are buses to here, but they let you off 5km from the school. It is best to take a taxi, setting a price for waiting time (around Rs 500).

In the first week of February, there is an all-night dance and music performance by Protima Gauri and her students. Famous musicians such as Zakar Hussain and Amjad Ali Khan also perform. The place is packed—over 25,000 people attend each night—and it is best to arrive before 5.30 pm to get a seat.

Bannerghatta National Park
This park, 20km south of Bangalore, is home to Indian leopards, lions, tigers, and elephants. You can drive around on a zoo-safari where the animals are fenced in. The park also has a snake and crocodile farm. Open daily except Tues. You can get here by taking bus #365 (platform 15) at the City bus stand.

Muthyala Maduvu
Located here, 45km south of Bangalore, is a waterfall that drops 90m (300 ft). It is on the road to Anekal. There is also a Siva temple in the area.

Nandi Hills
Phone Code: 08156

Located 70km north of Bangalore, xe Nandi Hills (1615m) is a popular Hill Station. There are some good views in the area.

The KSTDC Hotel Mayura Pine Top (78624) has rooms with bath for Rs 225/250. It can be booked at the KSTDC office in Bangalore.

Buses from Bangalore to here depart from the Central bus stand (2 hr). A KSTDC tour from Bangalore also comes here.

Around Mysore

Srirangapatnam
Pop: 22,000 Area
Phone Code: 08236

Srirangapatnam is on an island in the Kaveri River, 16km north of Mysore and 140km from Bangalore. Srirangapatnam was the capital city of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Tipu Sultan was defeated and killed here by the British, who were commanded by Colonel Arthur Wellesley, also known as the Duke of Wellington.

Fort
The British dismantled most of the Fort, but there are still gates and battlements remaining. There are also ancient cannons. Due north of the Ranganatha Temple are dungeons, used to hold British prisoners captured by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. It is said that the prisoners stood in water with their arms crossed and chained. The Jama Masjid is a mosque built by Tipu Sultan.

There is the important Sri Ranganatha Vishnu Temple here. Hyder Ali helped to build the temple, even though he was a Muslim. Besides the temple, there are the remains of a large fort. There are also the Narasimha Temple and the Gangadhareswara Temple northeast of the palace harem enclosure.

Daria Daulat and Gumbaz
About 1km east of the fort is Daria Daulat, the summer palace of Tipu Sultan—now a museum. Battle scenes are painted on the palace’s walls and ceilings. In one outstanding painting, Tipu is shown wearing a tiger stripes outfit. Another depicts the Nizam of Hyderabad. Upstairs on display are possessions of Tipu Sultan and some 19th century European paintings. Open daily except Fri. Admission Rs 3. There is a hospital where Colonel Wellesley and his men stayed.

Three-km east is the white domed Gumbaz, the tomb of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan. Open daily except Fri 9 am to 5 pm.

Sri Ranganatha Temple
This impressive temple dates back to the 10th century. Sri Ranganatha is a black stone Deity of Lord Vishnu reclining on Adi Sesa. Gautama Rishi and the river goddess Kaveri are at his feet. Sri Ranganatha is said to have been worshiped by Agastya Rishi. There is a Deity of Lakshmi as Ranganayaki and a Gopala Krishna Deity in the west shrine. There are also shrines dedicated to Ramanuja, Desikar, and all the Alwars.

Ramanujacharya spent time here in 1133 when he came to avoid the Cholas king’s repression.

Non-Hindus can enter the temple, but not the inner sanctum. This temple is 100m behind the railway station. Open 8 am to 1 pm and 4 to 8 pm.

Practicalities
Hotel Mayura River View (52114), a few km from the railway station and bus stand, has nice cottages for Rs 500. It has a restaurant. It is in a nice setting next to the Kaveri River.

Amblee Holiday Resort (52326; fax 577-137), on the Kaveri River, has a pool, health club, and a hotel lake. Rooms are Rs 900/1000 and Rs 1100/1200 with A/C.

You can rent a bicycle from a shop about half a km from the bus stand. It is difficult to see everything by foot because it is so spread out.

It is convenient to come here with a Mysore city tour. There are frequent buses from Mysore Central bus stand, and any Mysore to Bangalore train stops here. To get here from Mysore, you can take the #125 or #313 bus from the City bus stand, northwest of the Palace.

Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary
This sanctuary, 4km southwest of Srirangapatnam, attracts a large number of migrating birds. At this place, the Kaveri River is wide and there are several islands, providing sanctuary for the birds. It is possible to take a boat ride around the islands and view the birds. Viewing is especially good in October and November. Besides birds, there are crocodiles. Open daily 9 am to 6 pm Admission Rs 100. The most convenient way to get here is by rickshaw from Srirangapatnam. From Mysore, you take bus #126.

Brindavan Gardens & Krishnarajendra Dam
These are terraced gardens named after the original Brindavan, where Lord Krishna appeared and celebrated his pastimes. There is a large artificial lake and a number of fountains floodlit with multi-colored lights. There is a colorful Musical Fountain on the other side of the artificial lake, at the far end of the gardens. Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar built Krishnarajendra Dam across the Kaveri River at the beginning of this century.

This is a popular place, especially on weekends. In April-May up to 400 tour buses a day arrive. It is located about twenty minutes by train from Mysore Junction. Bus #150 comes here.

The fountains are lit up in the summer (weekdays 7 to 7.55 pm, summer holidays 8 to 8.55 pm), and in the winter (weekdays 6.30 to 7.30 pm; winter holidays 6.30 to 8.30 pm). The fountain show may be later on Saturdays and Sundays. People rush to this place in the evenings. The gardens are open from 7 am to 8 pm; Sat and Sun 8 am to 9 pm. Admission Rs 10; camera Rs 20; video cameras not permitted.

Practicalities
Hotel Mayura Cauvery (57252) has clean rooms for Rs 250/300. It has a basic restaurant.
There is also the simpler Tourist Home, which has rooms with baths.

Melkote Area Temples
Located around the town of Melkote (50km north of Mysore), are several impressive Hoysala temples.

In the village of Basaralu, about 20km northeast of Melkote, is the beautiful Mallikarjuna Temple (12th century). It has intricate sculptures, including one of Ravana lifting Mt. Kailash.

In Melkote, the Cheluvaraya Swami Temple (12th century) is a grand temple. During the Vairamudi festival in March/April, the deity in the temple is decorated with jewelry belonging to the former Maharaja of Mysore.

The Lakshmi-Narayana Temple (13th century), in the village of Hosaholalu, 20km west of Melkote, is one of the best temples in the area.

The Saumya-Keshava Temple (12th century) in Nagamangala, north of Melkote, is interesting.
Halebid, Belur, & Sravanabelagola

To see all three places in one day, you have to either take the conducted tour from Mysore or Bangalore, or a private car (at least Rs 1,000). It takes two days to see these three places by public bus because Sravanabelagola is in the opposite direction from Belur and Halebid. It is convenient to visit these places with a tour bus from Mysore.

If you are staying in Hassan, it is best to take the first of the ten buses to Halebid (1 hr, 8 am), and then go to Belur (30 min). From Belur, there are frequent buses back to Hassan (1½ hr, last bus 6.15 pm).

Arsikere
Pop: 40,000 Area
Phone Code: 08135

This is a good base from which to visit the temples in Halebid and Belur and the Jain temples in Sravanabelagola. It is 40km northeast of Halebid.
There is a major Hoysala temple, situated on the main road.

Where to Stay and Eat
Geetha Lodge, by the railway station, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 60/120.
Janata Hotel, opposite the bus station, has inexpensive rooms for Rs 60/100 and a vegetarian restaurant.

Hotel Mayura, by the bus station, has decent rooms for Rs 90/135.

Travel
Train  Arsikere is 156km from Bangalore by train. There are three daily trains to Hassan (1.5 hr) and Mysore (6 hr), at 3.50 am, 8 am and 2.15 pm.

The express trains between Bangalore and Mumbai stop in Arsikere. For most trains to Mumbai, you must change at Miraj. The Udyan Express is the fastest train. There are no sleeping quotas for any of these trains from this station. They must be arranged either in Bangalore or in Mysore. The Vasco Mail, departing at 9.10 pm, goes to Vasco da Gama in Goa (16 hr).

To get to Hampi (Vijayanagar), take a train to Hospet. To get to Hospet you have to change trains at Hubli and maybe Gadag. You could also take a train to Harihar and from there get a bus to Hospet.

Bus There are frequent buses to Belur (1 hr) and Halebid. A bus to Sringeri takes four hours.

Aihole, Badami, and Pattadakal
These three towns in northern Karnataka formed the heartland of the Chalukya dynasty, which ruled much of the South between the 4th and 8th centuries. The Chalukyas built literally hundreds of temples, which are some of the best examples of early Dravidian religious architecture. These three villages along the Malaprabha River Valley were built in succession as the kingdom’s capital city.

Aihole, Badami, and Pattadakal are close to one another and can be visited from a single base, usually Badami, which has better facilities. Badami is 189km northwest of Hampi and 499km north of Bangalore. It is 200km due east of Belgaum in northern Karnataka.

Aihole was built around 450 AD. It was originally called “Arya-Hole,” or “City of the Aryans.” Badami, 46km away, was built next, in about 550 AD. Pattadakal, 29km from Badami and 17km from Aihole, was founded in the 8th century. The Chalukya dynasty was destroyed in 753 AD when they were defeated by the Rashtrakutas.

Badami is a town of 16,000, Aihole of about 3000, and Pattadakal is smaller than either of them.

Getting Around
If you plan to visit only the major places, you can go to all three towns in a day. You can take one of the local buses run by the KSRTC between all three towns. Both Aihole and Pattadakal are small enough to tour on foot.

From Badami, it is best to go first to Aihole (2 hr) and then to Pattadakal, because the buses return back later to Badami from Pattadakal. There are regular buses between Pattadakal and Badami. From Pattadakal to Aihole takes half an hour.

You may want to take some food and water with you, as there are only basic food places.

Coast & West Karnataka

Karwar
Phone Code: 08382

This dull town is just over the border from Goa. You can change money at the Indian Bank.

Where to Stay and Eat
Anand Lodge (26156), a few minute walk from the bus stand, has basic rooms with bath and a balcony for Rs 140
Hotel Ashok (26418), near the bus stand, has rooms with common bath for Rs 75/100 and with bath for Rs 75/110.
Hotel Navtara (20831), Kaikini Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 110/150.
Hotel Bhadra (25212), near the Kali Nadi Bridge, has modern rooms with bath for Rs 250 and Rs 550 with A/C.
Devbag Forest Beach Resort (26596), has comfortable huts for Rs $65 per night (Rs 1500 for Indians). It is in a peaceful location, a 10-minute boat ride away from Karwar. It can be reserved at its office across from the Hotel Bhadra.
The Udipi Hotel is a decent, vegetarian South Indian place. Hotel Sitara, Main Rd, is an A/C places serving Indian, Chinese and Continental.

Travel
The new Konkan Railway passes through Karwar. There are trains to Goa, Mangalore, and Mumbai.

The bus stand is at the south end of town. There are regular buses to Panaji (Goa), Palolem, Madgao, Mangalore, and Hubli. There are also buses to Jog Falls (6 hr), Sringeri, and Colva. Local buses go to Gokarna and Ankola. There are state buses to Gokarna departing at 2, 5 and 8 pm.

Jog Falls
Phone Code: 08186

Jog Falls, the highest waterfalls in India, are 253m (834 ft) high. The Shiravati River falls and divides into four waterfalls known as the Rocket, the Roarer, the Raja, and the Rani. The Raja is the biggest fall (250m). Jog Falls is about 50km from the coast, halfway between Karwar and Udupi, 240km northeast of Mangalore.

The view from where the Inspection Bungalow is located is excellent. There is also a good view from the bus stand. There are steps leading to the bottom of the falls that begin near the bus stand. It is worth the walk.

The best time to see the falls is in December and January, right after the rainy season, at which time the falls are spectacular. During the rainy season, fog and mist obstruct the view of the falls, and there are leeches, which can make walking around, unattractive. During the summer season, the river dries up almost completely.

On the Shiravati River, before the falls, is the Linganamakki Dam, which controls the water coming over the falls and often reduces it. Sometimes all the water is diverted by the dam. On the second Sunday of the month, water is released from the dam to the falls from 10 am to 6 pm.

NOTE  Before coming here you should check with a Karnataka tourist office to find out whether water will be flowing over the falls. Someone told me that they came here at night and could hear the loud falls clearly. The next morning when they went to see the falls they had been reduced to a trickle.

Where to Stay
Accommodations near the falls are all basic. Most travelers stay in a room in local people’s homes (about Rs 50). When you arrive, people meet the buses and offer rooms for rent.

There are dorm beds at the run-down Youth Hostel, 1km from the falls, for Rs 100. There is also the PWD Inspection Bungalow, which must be booked in advance at the District Commissioners Office in Sidapur or Shimoga.
Sharavathi Tourist Home is clean with a good view of the falls. It is in a peaceful location.
Tunga Tourist Home (4732) has basic rooms for Rs 150 to Rs 400.

KSTDC Hotel Mayura (4732) has a great location overlooking the falls. It has large rooms for Rs 200 to Rs 300. It has a good restaurant.
Travel

There is a night bus to here from Karwar. Jog Falls is a fairly tough place to get to. Unless you have your own transportation (a motorbike), it is best to approach Jog Falls from an inland town and not the coast. From Mysore or Hassan you first have to go to the town of Sagar (30km northeast) usually after passing through Shimoga.

The closest railway station is in Talguppa, 20km southeast, where the line coming from Arsikere and Birur ends.

Belgaum
Pop: 460,000 Area
Phone Code 0831

Belgaum was the capital of the local area in the 12th and 13th century.

The Masjid-Sata Mosque (1519) is one of the most interesting mosques in town. There are also a few interesting Jain temples.

Where to Stay
Hotel Sheetal (429-222), a couple of minutes walk from the bus stand, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 125/180. It has a vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Mayura Mallaprabha (470-781), near the lake, is a modern hotel with cottages with bath for Rs 200/250.
Hotel Keerthi (423-332), on the right near the bus stand, has clean, comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 175/300. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Sanman Deluxe (430-777), College Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 300/500. Foreign Exchange facilities.

Travel
There are no flights from Belgaum. The Indian Airlines office (420-801) is in the Hotel Sanman Deluxe, College Rd.

There are express trains to Mumbai (14 hr), Bangalore (16 hr), Delhi, Hubli, and Londa (for Goa).

There are buses to Goa, Mumbai, Pune, and Hubli.

Pajakaksetra
Sri Madhvacarya was born here in 1239. It is 12km southeast of Udupi. There is a large shalagram-murti of Madhvacarya, which has a silver face and copper feet. Nearby is the house where he grew up, now known as Moodu Math. Inside the house are the Deities he worshipped, Lakshmi-Narasimha and Sri Ananta-padmanabha. Next to his home is a tank called Vasudeva Teertha, built by Madhvacarya for his mother.

There is a spot here that bears the marks of Madhvacarya’s feet when he jumped from the Durga Hill when his mother called him.

You can get a bus to here from the City bus stand in Udupi, but it is better to take an auto-rickshaw (1 hr) or a taxi as you have to take two buses (around two hours each way). It takes about half an hour to see everything. Pajakaksetra is a small village with no facilities.

Sri Mookambika (Sri Kollur)
This small, ancient, sacred town is about a four-hour bus ride northeast of Mangalore. The sacred Sauparnika River flows through the town.
Located here is a temple dedicated to the goddesses Maha-Lakshmi, Saraswati, and Durga, combined as Mookambika. Sri Devi

Mookambika destroyed the powerful demon Mookasura. There are several other deities in the temple. There is also a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna here.

There is a beautiful ISKCON farm property, 15km from town. It is located at the foot of Kutakacala Hill where it is said that Durga had pastimes and where it is believed that Lord Risabhadeva gave up his body in a forest fire. There are six guest rooms on the farm. You can get to the farm by going to the ISKCON center in the town of Mookambika.

The ISKCON center in Mookambika is on a half-acre of land, just next to the place where people bathe in the Sauparnika River. On the property is Garuda Guha, a cave where Garuda is said to have performed austerities.

There are several hotels in town. Sri Rathna Guesthouse has rooms for Rs 165.

There are direct buses to Mookambika from Udupi and Mangalore.

Subrahmanya
In the Skanda Purana it is stated that Lord Subrahmanya washed the blade of his Shakti weapon in the sacred Dhara (Kumaradhara) River after killing the demon Taraka and his brothers. It is also stated that Samba, the son of Sri Krishna, was cured of leprosy in Subrahmanya.

There is a major Subrahmanya Temple here. In the main shrine are the deities of Subrahmanya, Vasuki, and Sesa. In the southeast part of the temple is a Narasimha Deity and a Narasimha shalagram—both of which were personally worshiped by Madhvacarya. This Deity is said to have been given to him by Vyasadeva.

The Adi-Subrahmanya Temple is about 250m north of the outer wall. Custom dictates that pilgrims first visit this temple.

On the way from the temple to the Kumaradhara River there is a cave called Biladwara, where the serpent Vasuki is said to be hiding so he will not fall prey to Garuda.

Southeast of the Subrahmanya Temple is an ashram called Subrahmanya Math, established by Madhvacarya.

Sankaracharya visited this place. There is a Sringeri Mutt northeast of the Subrahmanya Temple.

Subrahmanya is 105km southeast of Mangalore (3 hr bus trip), 120km west of Hassan (3 hr bus trip), and 55km east of Puttur. The usual way to get here is via Mangalore, the closest railway connection.

Dharmasthala
Dharmasthala, 75km northeast of Mangalore, is known for the Manjunath Temple, dedicated to Lord Siva and served by Madhvacarya Vaishnava priests. The trustee is a Jain. The Jains recently installed a 12m high monolithic statue of Bahubali. The temple distributes free meals to everyone who visits.

Open from 6.30 am to 1 pm for visitors. Darshan and maha-puja are between 7 and 8 pm. During the Laksha Deepotsava Festival, 100,000 lamps are lit. Pilgrims bath in the Netravati River, 3km away.

Mudabidri
Pop: 25,000

There are eighteen Jain temples in this town. The 1000-pillar Chandranath Basti was dedicated in 1431. The outstanding monolithic columns in this temple have been intricately carved to the finest detail. In the Jain monastery near the temple is a collection of 12th and 13th centuries palm-leaf manuscripts.

Karnataka Tourist Cottage has eight rooms. Mudabidri is about a one-hour bus ride northeast of Mangalore.

Karkala
At Karkala, 53km from Mangalore, there are several temples and a huge 13m statue of Lord Bahubali (Gommateswara), completed in 1432.
You can get some good view while walking around the countryside.

Venur
Located in Venur, about 50km northeast of Mangalore, are eight Jain temples and the ruins of the Mahadeva Siva temple. There is an 11m high statue of Bahubali (1604).

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides