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This
is a mountainous area that is located between Ladakh and Tibet in the
north and the Kullu valley in the south. xe "Lahaul" Lahaul
begins 51km north of Manali, right after crossing the 3978m (13,127
ft) Rohtang Pass. You go through this area when you travel north from
Manali to Leh. Many of the peaks here are over 6000m, the highest being
Mulkila at 6,500m. It is basically a dry barren mountainous area with
some green areas. It has some interesting Buddhist gompas and secluded
villages. There are some good treks in this area.
To
reach here from Manali you have to travel over the Rohtang Pass, which
is closed a good part of the year because of heavy snow. You can also
get to this area coming from Shimla going through the Spiti Valley.
It is approached from Zanskar by going over the Shinga La Pass and from
Ladakh by going over the Baralacha La Pass (4,870m).
About half the people in Lahaul are Buddhist and the other half are
Hindu. The main local language is Bhoti, which is similar to Tibetan.
A good word to know is “jule,” which means hello, thank
you and goodbye.
Permits
You only need a permit if you are going between Tabo and Rekong Peo,
the capital of Kinnaur. You can get a seven-day permit at the Home Affairs
Office in Delhi, the Senior District Magistrate Office in Rekong Peo,
Kaza or Keylong or the Deputy Commissioner in Shimla or Kullu. Rekong
Peo and Kaza are the best places to apply, so as not to waste any of
the seven-day permit. In Kaza you are supposed to apply with a group
of four, but this is often waived. You need three passport size photos,
which you should have before going to Kaza or Rekong Peo, as you may
not be able to get any photos taken in these places.
There
are conditions listed on the permit in reference to where you can stay
and how you have to travel, which for the most part are not enforced.
Kaza
Phone Code: 01906
Elevation 3635m
Kaza"Kaza is the main town in Spiti. It is a nice town that is
divided into two basic areas, the “old town” and the “new
town.” New town is basically some government buildings (the District
Magistrate office is there).
The State Bank of India only changes US dollars (doesn’t like
hundreds) and will not change travelers cheques. Kaza is a good place
to hire a porter or a horse.
Where
to Stay and Eat
Hotel City, near the bus stand in the old town, has
rooms for Rs 125.
Ladakhi Hotel, near the chorten, has rooms for Rs 90
to Rs 125.
Zambala Hotel (22250), next to the State Bank, has
good size rooms for Rs 200.
Milarepa Guest House (22234), in the new area of town,
has basic rooms for Rs 150.
Mahabauda Guest House,(222232), on the main road of
the old town, has nice rooms with common bath for Rs 150 to Rs 300.
Snow Lion (222257), close by, has clean rooms for Rs
175 to Rs 250. It is a good value.
Sakya’s Abode (22254), in the new area of town,
has good, clean rooms for Rs 250 to Rs 600. Dorm beds Rs 60. Bucket
hot water Rs 5. It is a friendly, family-run place.
Lyul Café has Tibetan food.
Sakya’s Abode has good basic Indian and Spiti
food.
Travel
You should get to the bus stand early to make sure you get a ticket
and a seat. There are buses to Manali (12 hr, 1 or 2 daily, 5 am), Rekong
Peo (12 hr, 1 daily, 6 am), Keylong (8 hr) and Shimla.
You can arrange a taxi through your hotel. Taxis are expensive here.
The first hour of waiting time is free and then it is Rs 50 per hour.
There is a taxi stand near the Zambala Hotel.
Kyi Gompa & Kibber
Village
The xe "Kyi Gompa"Kyi Gompa, 14km from Kaza, is part of the
Gelukpa order. It is the oldest and biggest gompa in Spiti. There are
around 200 monks here. It has a great collection of thangkas and paintings.
Kibber,
11km from Kyi Gompa, claims to be the highest village in the world at
4250m (14025 ft). There are several basic guesthouses in Kibber with
rooms for around Rs 60.
There
is a daily bus in the summer that departs from Kaza at 8 am that goes
to Kyi Gompa and then to Kibber village.
You can visit the Kyi Gompa while the bus continues on to Kibber and
then get the same bus back to Kaza when it returns. A taxi is Rs 350
from Kaza to Kyi Gompa and back. To go to both Kyi Gompa and Kibber
is Rs 550.
To
walk from Kaza to both Kyi Gompa and Kibber village is around 21km.
It is a long difficult walk up some steep paths. To walk from Kaza to
the Kyi Gompa, you take the road north for around 4km and go over the
bridge and there are signs.
Dankar
At Dankar Gompa there are around 150 monks, some interesting sculptures,
thangkas and paintings. There are some great views from here. From the
road it takes around 2 hr to climb up to this gompa.
There
is a beautiful lake at 4,000m that is about 3km from
the village.
There
are some direct buses from Kaza to Kankar. You can
also get a bus to Scihiling and from there it is a hard eight km walk.
There is sometimes a bus between Scihiling and Dankar. A taxi from Kaza
to Dankar Gompa and back is Rs 800 and to Scihiling and back Rs 600.
Thang
Yud Gompa
The Thang Yud Gompa, 14km north of Kaza, was built in the 14th century
by the Sakyapa order. It is a hard trek to get to this monastery.
Tabo Gompa
This important Tibetan Buddhist gompa is where the present Dalai Lama
is planned to retire. It was built by Ringchen Zangpo,
the “Great Translator” in 996 and is over a thousand years
old.
It
has some outstanding murals and sculptures. There is a painting school
here opened by the Dalai Lama. Tabo is 45km east of Kaza.
There are some caves (known as duwang) on the other side of
the road from the gompa that have ancient paintings in them.
There
are a few rooms in the gompa to stay for the night
and there are some government guesthouses that may have a room. The
only place to eat is at the really basic Himgiri Restaurant.
To
get to Tabo from Kaza takes two hours. You take the 6 am bus that goes
to Rekong Peo and then get a bus back in the afternoon.
Treks
in Lahaul and Spiti
The
treks in this area are long, strenuous and you have to go over some
high passes. There are little facilities, so you need to have a guide,
ponies, tents and your own food. Packhorses can be hired in Darcha and
Keylong in Lahaul, Kaza in Spiti, and Manali. You need to give yourself
time to acclimatize for the high altitude passes. The best time to trek
is from July to early September, as it does not rain much here. By the
end of September there is a possibility of snowfall and starting in
November it gets really cold.
The
trek that goes to the Baralacha Pass (5100m) is one
of the most popular treks done in Lahaul. On Day 1 you get the Kaza
bus from Manali to Batal, where the trek begins. You then walk from
Batal to Chandratal Lake (7km). You pass on this ascent Bara Shigri
(the world’s largest glacier) and White Sail (6400m). If you have
a problem with elevation you should take a day off to acclimatize. You
then walk to Tokping Yongma. On Day 4 you go to Baralacha La, from where
you can get a bus on the Manali–Leh road. You could also take
the trail to Zanskar via Phirtse La (5430m), which is an extremely tough
trek only to be done by an experienced trekker.
An
interesting trek is the Pin Valley Trek, which begins
25km southeast of Kaza. The trail goes south along the right bank of
the Pin River to Ghurguru. The path then takes two routes, one south
to Kinnaur over the Bhaba Pass (4860m) and the other north to Manikaran
in the Parvati Valley over the Pin-Parvati Pass (4800m).
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