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Area
Code: 01786
Kinnaur is the area between Shimla and the border of Tibet. You need
a permit (easy to attain) to visit many of the places here. To the north
is the Zanskar Range, which forms the border with China and in the south
is the Kinnaur Kailash Range, which has the mountains of Jorkanden (6473m),
Phawarang (6349m) and Kinnaur Kailash (6050m). Most of the people in
this region are of Mongol origin and follow Buddhism.
The
beautiful Sangla Valley is south of the Kinnaur Kailash
Range. The best time to visit this valley is in April and May and in
September and October. The road up to the Sutlej Valley is closed part
of the year in the winter. Sometimes it can be hard to find places to
stay in this area, so a tent could be useful, because there are many
places to camp.
Permit
You are allowed to go without a permit to Rekong Peo, Kalpa and the
Sangla Valley. To go to northern Kinnaur you need a permit. You can
get it at the Senior District Magistrate’s office in Shimla, Kullu,
Chamba, Keylong, or at the Sub-District Magistrate’s office in
Rekong Peo, Kaza, Nichar or Rampur. The permit is good for seven days,
but can be extended at Rekong Peo or Kaza. Rekong Peo is a good place
to get the permit. The magistrate’s office in Rekong Peo is near
the bus stand.
To
get a permit, you must have a letter of introduction from a travel agency,
three passport size photos, and a photocopy of the front pages of your
passport. You then fill out a form and submit it at the magistrate’s
office. Mayur Guest House in Rekong Peo will give you this letter for
Rs 100. It may take the good part of a day to get the permit.
Rekong Peo
Area Code: 01786
There are some great views of the mountains from this town (2,000m),
which is the capital of Kinnaur. It has decent facilities and you may
have to stay here while getting a permit to Kinnaur, Lahaul or Spiti.
The
State Bank of India may change TCs. Rekong Peo is a
good place to get supplies, as the villages in Lahaul and Spiti have
limited supplies.
The Kinnaur Kalachakra Celestial Palace is a colorful
gompa that is a 25-minute walk above the village. There is a large statue
of the Buddha.
Mandala Tours and Travel (2504), Gongma House, can
arrange treks in the area and jeep safaris. The owner is helpful.
Where
to Stay and Eat
Mayur Guest House, near the bus stand, has really basic,
dirty rooms for Rs 125.
Hotel Fairyland (22477), near the bus stand, has clean
rooms for Rs 275. There are some good views from some of the rooms.
It has a restaurant.
Shivling View Guest House (22421), near the bus stand,
has clean rooms with hot water for Rs 300. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Snow View, across from the bus stand, has clean
rooms with hot water for Rs 300.
The PWD Rest House has good rooms.
Manish Bhojnala Restaurant serves good Tibetan food.
You
usually can not get bottled water or cold drinks here.
Travel
The ticket counter for the buses is about 100m from where the buses
stop. There are buses to Kaza (12 hr, 1 daily), Rampur (1 daily), Mandi
and Shimla (10 hr, several daily). There are buses to Kalpa and Powari.
A taxi to Kalpa costs Rs 125 one way or Rs 175 roundtrip and to Powari
it is Rs 125.
Kalpa
Kalpa is a nice peaceful town, about 600m higher in elevation than Rekong
Peo. It is said that Lord Siva comes here in the winter. During the
month of Magha (Jan/Feb), the gods are said to come here to meet with
Siva.
There
are some great views of the mountains from here and some good walks
in the area. There is a tendency to get lost in this area, so you should
stay conscious of the trail or take a guide with you.
Where
to Stay
Auktong Guest House (26019) has nice rooms with common
bath for Rs 200. It is a five minute walk out of town.
HPTDC Hotel KInnaur Kailash has good rooms for Rs 550
to Rs 1000.
Forest Rest House, around 2km from Kalpa, has large
rooms with bath and a fireplace for Rs 300. A taxi to this place from
Rekong Peo is around Rs 125.
Kinnaur Villa (26006) has rooms with common bath for
Rs 250 and with bath for Rs 450. Bucket hot water.
Timberline Trekking Camp, a half km from the center
of town, has deluxe tents for Rs 1000 a person. It has hot water. It
is open from May to October.
Travel
There are some buses between Kalpa and Rekong Peo. To get a long distance
bus you usually have to go to Rekong Peo. A taxi from Kalpa to Rekong
Peo is Rs 125 and Rs 175 roundtrip. It is a hard 1½ hr hike from
Rekong Peo to Kalpa.
Sangla Village &
Valley
This is a beautiful area that has some great views of the mountains
and wildlife. In the village of Sangla there is a temple dedicated to
Nagesh. In the village of Kamru, 2km from Sangla village, there is a
wooden five-storey fort. It has a temple dedicated to Kamakshi in it.
Sangla
Guest House has rooms with bath. Baspa Guesthouse (42206) has
rooms with common bath for Rs 175 and with bath for Rs 240.
Kailash View has good rooms with hot water for Rs 350
and dorm beds for Rs 85.
Himachal
Tourism Tents has good tents in the middle of the village.
Banjara
Camps, 8km from Sangla, is a first class facility that has
high-end tents and good food. It is a well-managed, together place.
The buses let down passengers about 2km from the camp. It can be booked
at 17 Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi (011 696-0509; fax 685-8028).
Monal
Restaurant, is the town center, has good Indian and Chinese
food.
There
are buses to Shimla (10 hr) via Tapri, Rekong Peo, and Chitkul.
Kinnaur Treks
In Kinnaur there are some mild treks and some difficult ones going over
some high-altitude passes. Routes in the Sutlej Valley can often be
done without the help of porters. In other places you will need a porter
and will have to camp out and have your own food. Porters can usually
be hired in Rekong Peo and Rampur for around Rs 150 per day. In Sept/Oct
during the harvest time they are more expensive and may be hard to find.
Sarahan to Wangtu Trek
This
fairly easy trek begins near Sarahan and goes to the village of Chaura,
where there is the Hirmal Devi Temple. On Day 2 you can go either to
Tranda (8km) or another 9km to Paunda, where there is a rest house.
The
next day you go to the village of Sangra, where there is a rest house.
At Wangtu you can get transportation back to Shimla or continue the
trek to Kalpa.
Wangtu
to Kaza Trek
This difficult trek goes over the Great Himalayan Range going over Shakar
La Pass and then goes through the Pin Valley. You definitely need a
good guide, proper equipment and porters. The guide should ideally be
arranged with an established travel agency. On Day 1 you start at Wangtu
and then go to Kafnoo village. On Day 3, going over Bhaba Pass (4860m)
is a tough walk through snow. Day 4 brings you to the beautiful Pin
Valley and then it takes three or four days to reach Kaza.
Kinner–Kailash
Trek
To do this five to seven-day scenic trek you need to get an Inner Line
permit. You first go to the village of Morang, which you get to by taking
a bus from Rekong Peo or Tapri. You can then get a jeep to Thangi, from
where the trek begins. On the second day it is a tough ascent to go
over the Charagng La Pass (5260m).
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