Gujarat

 

Population: 45 million
Capital: Gandhinagar
Area: 196,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: October to March
Main Language: Gujarati
Literacy Rate: 62%

Gujarat is a nice place to visit, but few foreign tourists make it here. Gujaratis are among the friendliest, most religious, and helpful people in India. Gujaratis often have the familiar surname, Patel. Mahatma Gandhi was born in Gujarat. A large percentage of emigrants to America and the UK come from Gujarat.

Gujarat is divided into three areas: the Eastern section contains the city of Ahmedabad and the commercial cities of Vadodara (Baroda) and Surat. The northwest section is called Kutch, which is a dry, secluded area, which maintains much of the traditional village life. The southwest area, the Saurashtra or Kathiawar Peninsula, has several interesting places to visit, such as the important holy city of Dwarka, the nice beaches of Diu, Junagadh, and Sasan Gir National Park where the last Asiatic lions living in the wild are located.

Gujarat has a few important holy places and temples. Dwarka on the coast is where Lord Krishna lived after leaving Mathura. Many of the Gujaratis are devotees of Krishna. Somnath is where Krishna left the material world. Also in Somnath is an important Siva temple containing one of the important Siva Jyotilingas. There is an interesting Krishna temple in Dakor called the Ranchorji Temple.

The best time to visit Gujarat is from October to February when it is warm and dry. The rest of the year, temperatures soar. During the winter, Gujarat has some of the best weather in India. It has a high of 28ºC (82ºF) and a low of 11ºC (51ºF). The summers are hot, with temperatures rising to 49ºC (120ºF).

History
The Solanki dynasty ruled Gujarat in the 11th and 12th centuries. The Muslims conquered Gujarat in 1299 and the Sultanate of Gujarat was formed in 1407. The Portuguese took over the ports of Diu and Daman in the 16th century. The British East India Company established their first headquarters in Surat. The British took control of the state in 1818, but the Saurashtra area never came under the direct control of the British. Rather, it was divided into over one hundred princely states right up to Independence. In 1956, the states were combined and became part of the state of Bombay. In 1960, Bombay State was divided into the state of Maharashtra and the state of Gujarat on the basis of the language spoken in each state.

Near Ahmedabad

Gandhinagar
Pop: 135,000 Area
Phone Code: 082 from Ahmedabad (02712 from other places)

Located 31km northeast of Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar is the state capital of Gujarat. It is a planned city, designed after Independence by Le Corbusier. He also designed Chandigarh in Punjab. The city is divided into numbered sectors. It was named Gandhinagar after Mahatma Gandhi. Construction began in 1965 and government activities were established here in 1970.

The Akshardham Swami Narayana Complex in Sector 20, has an opulent temple, landscaped gardens, a multi-media show, a museum with possessions of Swami Narayana, and exhibition halls. There is a 2m gold-leafed statue of xe "Swami Narayana:Gandhinagar" Swami Narayana in the main building and a restaurant. Open 10 am to 8 pm March to Oct, 9 am to 7 pm, Nov to Feb.

Practicalities
Youth Hostel (232-2364), Sector 16, has dorm beds for Rs 125.
Hotel Haveli (322-3905; fax 322-4057), Sector 11, has good rooms for Rs 1600/2200 and a restaurant.
There are regular buses to Gandhinagar from the local Lal Darwaja bus stand in Ahmedabad (1 hr) which pick up passengers along Ashram Rd.

Sarkhej
Located in Sarkhej, 10km southwest of Ahmedabad, is the Tomb of Sheikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj Buksh (1455), the spiritual teacher and advisor of Ahmed Shah, founder of Ahmedabad. Located on the bank of an artificial lake, it is the largest mausoleum in Gujarat. It has a huge central dome and excellent marble, wood, and brass work. There are mosques and other mausoleums in the area.

The Mausoleum of Muhammad Shah (1457) is also here. Many of the buildings are constructed in a purely Hindu style, unlike many of the old buildings in Ahmedabad.

The Mausoleum of Sultan Muhammed Beghada and his wife Rajabai (1511) are also interesting. Sultan Beghada built palaces, gardens, and fountains in this place in the 16th century, and at one time Sarkhej was opulent. It is still a nice place to visit. Bus # 31 from the Lal Darwaja bus stand in Ahmedabad comes here.

Adalaj Vav
Adalaj Vav (1498) is an impressive, five-storey step well (30m deep) located 10km north of the city, off the road to Gandhinagar. The walls and pillars of this well are covered with intricate sculptures, and there is detailed latticework. It is best to come here just before noon when the sun lights up the well to the bottom.

There is a pleasant garden. Queen Rudabai constructed this place in 1499 as a summer retreat. Buses from the Central bus stand in Ahmedabad depart to here every fifteen minutes.

Patan
Patan, 130km northwest of Ahmedabad, used to be an important city. Located nearby are over one hundred Jain temples. Patan is known for making silk patala saris. Each sari takes three to six months to weave and costs up to $2500.

The impressive Rani-ki-Vav Step Well (1050) has some of the nicest carvings in Gujarat. The entire step well is covered with sculptures. There are many sculptures of Vishnu and his incarnations, Ganesh, and women. Admission: Foreigners/Indians Rs 100/5

Hotel Nereev, (22127), near Kohinoor Cinema, has rooms for Rs 200/250 and Rs 800/1000.

A bus to here from Ahmedabad takes four hours.

The closest town with a long-distance railway station is Mehsana (23km southeast). There are five slow passenger trains between Mehsana and Patan daily (2 hr).

Modhera Sun Temple
This partially ruined temple is located about 100km northwest of Ahmedabad. The Solanki King Bhimdev I (1026) built the temple, and it is one of the finest ancient Hindu temples in Gujarat. The temple was constructed in such a way that at dawn during the equinoxes, the sunlight falls directly on the Surya deity.

There are excellent carvings on the walls and pillars of Vedic personalities, animals, and floral latticework. On the exterior walls of the temple there are sculptures of Surya and Agni. Because the temple was partially destroyed by Mahmud of Ghazni and earthquakes, it is almost a ruin.
Modhera is off the normal tourist route. Open 8 am to 6 pm.

Practicalities
It can be a problem to find nearby accommodations. Jilla Panchayat Rest House, near the Sun Temple, has rooms for Rs 150 to Rs 250.
PWD Rest House has some rooms. Both places are often full.
There are direct buses (3 hr) from the Central bus stand in Ahmedabad to here. You can also take a train to Mehsana and a bus the remaining 2km from there (45 min).

Mehsana
Phone Code: 02762
There is nothing to see here, but Mehsana, 90km north of Ahmedabad, could be used as a base from which to see the sites of northern Gujarat.

Avon Guest House (51394), opposite the railway station, is a basic, cheap place.
Hotel Apsara (51027), in Janta Supermarket, Rajmahal Rd, near the bus station, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 250/300 and Rs 650/600 with A/C. It has a good restaurant.
Vijay Guest House (20041), 3km out of town on NH8, has clean rooms with bath. It is a good place.

There are trains to Ahmedabad (2 hr), Patan (2 hr), Jodhpur (11 hr), Ajmer (14 hr), Abu Rd (5 hr), and Delhi (23 hr). Buses go to Ahmedabad, Modhera, Bhuj, Vadodara, Jodhpur, and Ajmer.

Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary
The lake here is 120 sq km and is located 60km southwest of Ahmedabad. There are flamingos, geese, pelicans, ducks, and other birds. The best time to view the birds is in the early morning and at twilight. Best to visit by taxi, as it is difficult to come here by bus and there are no accommodations in the area. You can hire a boat here. Desert Coursers (079 448-699) arranges a day tour of the sanctuary for Rs 1500 per person (includes lunch).

The best time to visit is from November to February.

Lothal
Lothal, about 90km southwest of Ahmedabad, is what remains of a city of the Indus Valley Civilization dating from 2400 to 1900 BC (about 4,000 years ago). It was discovered in 1945. It is believed that this city is associated with the Indus Valley cities of Harappa and Mohenjodara, which are now in Pakistan.

This city had well laid out streets, a good drainage system, and brickwork. You can see ruins of houses, shops, a bathhouse, roads, a sewer, and a dock. It is believed that this was once a major Indian port. Ancient seals have been discovered here which indicates that trade was done with Egypt and Persia.

There is a Museum with exhibits of items found during excavation—jewelry, toys, pottery, seals, and weights. The pots and toys made of red pottery indicate that Lothal may have been inhabited before 4000 BC. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 3.

Practicalities
Utelia Palace, (0in ahmeedabad 79 079 630-2019644-5770) near the Bhugavo River, 7km from Lothal, is an opulent place with spacious, comfortable rooms with antique furniture for Rs 2950 per person (includes meals). The owners can arrange village tours. Reserve with North West Safaris (079 656-0962).

To get to Lothal from Ahmedabad, you must first take a bus going to Bhavnagar and get off at Dholka. You then get another bus to Lothal.

Champaner
Champaner, 46km northeast of Vadodara, is an old Muslim capital. In the old city there are some mosques and old palaces. The Jami Masjid is a large, adorned mosque.

Hotel Champaner (Gujarat Tourism) (026765 45641), between Champaner and Pavagadh, has both rooms and a dorm. There are great views from the hotel. The restaurant serves vegetarian thalis.

T here are regular buses from Vadodara to here (1½ hr).

Pavagadh
Located 4km from Champaner is a Fort on top of an 880m hill. This hill is said to be part of the mountain Hanuman carried from the Himalayas. It is a steep climb up to the fort, from where you can see the city walls, a lower ruined fort, a middle fort, palaces, and an upper fort containing Hindu and Jain temples. Interesting structures are the Buria Darwaza Gate and the three-storey Chapavati Mahal. You can take a chair lift to the top of the hill.

Ranchorji Temple in Dakor
This is Gujarat’s most beloved Krishna Deity. Ranchor is the name given to Lord Krishna when he fled from the battlefield in Mathura while fighting against Jarasandha and his army. Ranchor means “one who gives up the battlefield.” This Deity was installed and worshiped in Dwarka up to 800 years ago. The present temple was built in 1772.

The Deity of Sri Ranchorji is similar to the Deity of Dwarkadish in Dwarka, both being made from black stone. Devotees are allowed to touch the feet of the Deity. Every full moon day a large number of devotees come to this temple. There is a big festival on Sharad Purnim, the full-moon day of the Sharad season (Sept-Oct).

After the death of Kamsa, Mathura was besieged by the soldiers of Kalayavana and Jarasandha. At that time, Krishna fled from the city. Thus he is known as Ranchor. In order to prevent a further massacre of soldiers and to attend to other business, Lord Krishna left the battlefield. Ranchorji did not leave out of fear, but to fulfill another purpose—to attend to a confidential letter sent by Rukmini, his future wife.

Krishna’s leaving the battlefield was a display of one of his six opulences. Krishna is the supreme powerful, the supreme wealthy, the supreme famous, the supreme wise, the supreme beautiful, and the supreme renunciate. His leaving the battlefield is an example of his supermost opulence of renunciation.

Mangala-arati is held every morning at 6:45 am. Ranchorji is dressed and decorated in public. The temple is closed in the early afternoon. Ranchorji is especially fond of moga laddus. Saffron-flavored milk is offered in the morning.

Travel
There are direct buses from either Ahmedabad (2 hr) or Vadodara (2 hr). Dakor is located 50km north of Vadodara and 50km southeast of Ahmedabad.

Mul Dwarkadish (Visavada)
Mul Dwarkadish is about 25km north of Porbandar on the way to Dwarka. Located here are the Mul Dwarkadish Temple and a well said to be as sacred as the Ganges. The temple of Ranachorji (Krishna) faces a Siva temple here. Lord Krishna is said to have stopped here on his way to Dwarka.

Ghumli
Located here is Vikai Vav (early 12th century), one of the largest step wells in Gujarat. It has excellent carved pillars.

Near Bhavnagar

Velavadar National Park
In this park (0278 288-0342), 65km north of Bhavnagar, are found many black bucks. Black bucks are the fastest long-distance runner of any animal (90km or 58 miles per hour). The males are black and white with spiral horns. The Bishno tribe protects these animals. Also in the park are nilgais, wild boars, wolves, jackals, and a large number and variety of birds. The best time for viewing is early in the morning and dusk.

The best time to visit the park is from October to June. Entry Foreigners?indians US$5/Rs 10; camera $5. Vehicle $5. It is also required to hire a guide for $10 for four hours,.

Kaliyar Bhavan Forest Lodge has basic rooms. You can reserve it at the Forest Office (0278 426-425) in Bhavnagar.

There are buses to here from Bhavnagar and Vallabhipur. If you want to have a car to drive around the park, you must hire it in Bhavnagar because there are none to rent in Velavadar.

Vallabhipur
This place was the capital of this part of India. There is a museum where some area archaeological finds are displayed. Vallabhipur is 40km northwest of Bhavnagar.

Little Rann of Kutch
The Little Rann of Kutch is a desolate area of land between Kutch and the western part of Gujarat. Located here are khur (Asiatic wild ass)—the only place they are found in India. The asses move in herds of thirty to fifty. They are difficult to see because during the day they travel inland. In the late 1960s, there were just 800 khurs left, but now there are over 2,000. Other animals living here are chinkara, nilgai, black buck, wild boar, and many species of birds.

This area can be hard to get around on foot because the terrain can be very muddy, but can often appear to be solid ground. It is best to take a guide. Vast parts of the Little Rann are flooded during monsoons. The village of Zainabad, 100km north of Ahmedabad, is close to the border of the Little Rann of Kutch.

Practicalities
Camp Zainabad (02757 33322) provides accommodations in traditional huts with bath for Rs 900; the price includes breakfast and dinner. It is a friendly place. The people that manage it run Desert Coursers (079 448-699), Dasada, Dt Surendranagar, which organizes tours of the Little Rann of Kutch.

Camp Houbara in Dasada has comfortable tents with bath and showers. They organize jeep safaris of the park. Reserve in advance with Safraz Malik, Faitma Manzil, Dasada, Dt Surendranagar (02757 40238); or with North West Safaris, Ahmedabad (079 656-0962). They arrange transportation from Dasada to here.

Travel
There are buses to Dasada from Ahmedabad (2½ hr, 93km). From Dasada there are local buses to Zainabad (14km). Viramgam, which is on the Ahmedabad to Mumbai line, is the closest railway station (32km from Dasada). From Rajkot there is a direct bus to Zainabad. Desert Coursers can arrange a taxi for Rs 5 per km.

Kutch
Kutch is an interesting place to visit, although few tourists do. The friendly Kutch people wear traditional, heavily embroidered clothes. Official permits are required to visit many of the sites in North Kutch.

Kutch is the northwest part of Gujarat. It is surrounded by the Rann of Kutch (marsh lands) in the north and east, the Little Rann of Kutch in the southeast, the Arabian Sea to the west, and is separated from the Kathiawar Peninsula in the south by the Bay of Kutch. Most of Kutch is barren because the soil is so salty. During the dry season, the ground is hard mud, and during the rainy season from May to August, the land is flooded. The Little Rann of Kutch can flood almost completely during the monsoon, which effectively turns Kutch into an island.

Kutch Villages
The villages around Bhuj are interesting, and each of them specializes in a different handicraft. Because the villages north of Bhuj are close to the Pakistan border, many of them require that visitors get permits from the Bhuj District Collector.

Some villages are Dhamarka (block printing), Padhar (Ahir embroidery), Bhujjodi (cotton weavings), Anjar (tie-dying and block printing), Mundra (tie-dying), Dumaro (mirror-work) and Dhaneti (Ahir embroidery).

At Biber there is a Rama temple decorated with paintings from the Ramayana. At Dholavira there have been discoveries relating to the ancient Harappa civilization.

Practicalities
Gandhi Ashram at Lilpur has rooms for Rs 125, including meals.

There is a direct bus to Lilpur around 6 am. You can also take a bus to Rapar and catch another bus from there, or get down at the turnoff to Lilpur (3km) and walk from there. There are regular buses to Anjar from Bhuj.

You can take a taxi for around Rs 600 for the day. You should set the price in advance.

Than Monastery
This place, 60km from Bhuj, has an interesting history. A permit is required if you wish to visit. From where the bus lets you off, you must walk about 3km to reach the monastery.

There is a basic dharamshala here. There is a direct bus to here around noon from Bhuj. From Bhuj you can also take a bus to Nakatrana and then another bus to here.

Gandhidham
Pop: 120,000 Phone Code: 02836

Hotel Gokul (20068) has good rooms for Rs 400/450.
Hotel Natraj (21955), opposite the bus stand, has good rooms with bath for Rs 300/500.

From here you can catch a train to Ahmedabad. To get from Ahmedabad to Bhuj, it is quicker to take a train to Gandhidham and then a bus to Bhuj, rather than taking the direct train to Bhuj. The bus stand is across from the railway station. There are buses to Bhuj (1½ hr, every half-hour).

Mandvi
Phone Code: 02834

Mandvi, 60km southwest of Bhuj on the Arabian Sea, has some decent beaches. Not many travelers come here. Mandvi was an important port in the 18th century, so there are some old mansions decorated with carvings and paintings.

Vijay Vilas Palace, 7km west of town, was the summer retreat of the Maharao of Kutch in the 1940s. It has antique furniture made in Europe and elaborate rooms. There are good views from the roof porch. It is not so well-maintained. Open daily 8 am to 1 pm and 2 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 5, camera, Rs 25, video Rs 100.

Kutch Cardyka Hospital (20558) has good facilities.

Where to Stay and Eat
Shital Guest House (221160), near the central crossroads, has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125/200 and dorm beds for Rs 70.
The Jain Dharamsala, near the bus stand has rooms for Rs 50. No smoking.
Vinayak Guest House (20366) has basic rooms for Rs 50/75 (bucket hot water).
Sahara (220272), near the bus stand, has clean modern rooms for Rs 300/400. It has dorm beds.
Maitri Guest House (220183), Bunder Rd, has clean rooms with bath with hot water for Rs 325/400.
Rukmavati Guest House (20558), has rooms for Rs 175/225 to Rs 300/400. Dorms Rs 60. 24-hour checkout.
Vijay Villas Guest House (20034), in the Vijay Villas Palace complex, 10km from Mandvi, has rooms with bath for Rs 400 to Rs 800. It is in a peaceful location. Thalis are Rs 70.
Zorba the Buddha, KT Shah Rd, west of the bus stand, has good, inexpensive thalis for lunch and dinner.
Hare Krishna Restaurant has good vegetarian food.

Travel
There are buses to Bhuj (1½ hr) every hour. Shared taxis to Bhuj are Rs 40.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides