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90,000
Phone Code 0832
Panaji
became the capital of Goa in 1843 after the port of the old capital,
Old Goa, silted up and a plague hit the city. Panaji is the smallest,
and one of the nicest, state capitals. Many people pass through Panaji
on the way to the beaches, but most do not spend much time in this friendly
town.
The city has a definite European feel to it because of the whitewashed
churches, old houses, red-tiled roofs, cobbled roads, and small squares.
In the old Latin quarter, Fontainhas, many of the shops have Portuguese
names. I enjoyed walking around the town looking at the old buildings.
Old Goa is thirty minutes away by bus.
Orientation
Panaji is situated on the south bank of the Mandovi River. It is easy
to get around by foot because everything is close together. The Ourem
River, which runs north–south, divides Panaji. The Kadamba Bus
Terminal and the Goa Tourist Office are on the eastern side of the river.
Most everything else is on the west side. The Fontainhas area, the old
part of the city, runs mainly along the western bank of the Ourem.
Information
The helpful GTDC Tourist Office (222-4132: Eamil: gtdc@goa.nic.in:
Web Site: http://www.goa-tourism.com)
is in the Patto Tourist Home Hotel, Dr Alvares Cross Rd. The GTDC
Information Counter inside the Kadamba bus stand
(243-8520, 222-5620)can
arrange accommodations and has train and bus schedules. They also arrange
tours and tourist taxis. Open Mon to Fri 8 am to 6 pm & Sat 9 am
to 5 pm. There is also a tourist counter at the airport,
which is open for incoming flights. They all sell good state maps for
Rs 12.
The
ITDC Tourist Office (284-1653, 222-3412, Eamil: goitogoa@goatelecom.com),
Communidade Building, Church Square, is good. Open Mon to Fri 9:30 am
to 5:45 pm & Sat 10 am to 1 pm. They can arragne tour guides for
half-day and full-day tours.
The
Karnataka State Tourist Office (224-110), Velho, east
side of Municipal Gardens, is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 1:30 pm and 2:15
to 5.15 pm. The Maharashtra Tourist Office is in the
Tourist Hotel.
The
British High Commission has a Consular Assistant.Ms
Shilpa Caldeira, (243-8897, Web Site: http://www.ukinindia.com),
189 Avda Dom Joäo, near the GPO.
Tours
Tours of Goa are operated by Goa Tourism. They can be booked
at the tourist offices and by private agencies. Most tours go to many
places in one day, and you may feel like cattle being herded around.
The beach tours are for out-of-staters who want to look at Western bodies.
The
North Goa tour goes to Panaji, Mapusa, Datta Mandir,
Mayem Lake, Vagator, Anjuna, Calangute, and Fort Agauda. The South Goa
tour goes to Old Goa, Mangesh Temple, Shantadurga Temple, Miramar, Dona
Paula, Pilar Seminary, Colva, and Vasco da Gama. The tours depart daily
at 9:30 am and return at 6 pm and cost Rs 60 (Rs 80 for an A/C bus).
The
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary tour departs daily at 9:30
am and returns at 5 pm (Rs 70).
There
are daily half-hour river cruises on the Mandovi River
at 6 pm (Sunset Cruise) and 7:15 pm (Sundown Cruise). The cost is Rs
60. They include a Goan folk song and dance cultural program. On full-moon
nights, there are two-hour cruises starting at 8:30 pm (Rs 100). You
can have dinner on-board. The Goan Tourism’s Santa Monica departs
from the former Mumbai steamer jetty, by the customs office. There are
also private boats that cruise on the Mandovi River, which depart from
in front of the Tourist Hotel. Their rates are usually higher.
Money
You can change money at the State Bank of India, Dayanand
Bandodkar Marg, across from the Hotel Mandovi. The Andhra Bank,
opposite the Ashok Samrat Cinema, does advances on Visa and MasterCard,
and the Bank of Baroda, Azad Maidan, does advances
on Visa and MasterCard cards.
Thomas
Cook (222-1312; fax 221-313), 8 Alcon Chambers, Dayannad Bandodkar
Marg, near Indian Airlines office, changes money quickly and efficiently
and also makes international money transfers. Open Mon to Sat 9:30 am
to 6 pm.
The
American Express Office (243-2645), 14 Alcon Chambers,
is open 10am to 6 pm. This place and Thomas Cook are the best places
to change money.
Wall
Street Finance and the Exchange Bureau in
the Hotel Fidalgo also change money.
A good place to
change money is the Pheroze Framroze Exchange Bureau,
Dr P shirgaonkar Rd. Hours: Monday to Saturday 9:30am-7pm, Sunday 9:30
am-1pm.
There are 24-hour ATM machines at UTI Bank,
near the bus stand; Centurion, MG Rd; and HFDC
(24-hours) 18th June Rd,
Post
and Internet
The poste restante counter is 250m west of Patto Bridge,
next to the GPO, about 250m west of the Patto Bridge, near the Mandovi
River.
Courier
services: DHL (222-6487), Nagesh Apt, Rua Conde de
Sarcedes; and Skypak (222-5763), Rivera Rd, Municipal
Garden Square.
NetMagic (222-4106), 7 Shanta Building, 18th June Rd,
has internet facilities for Rs 100 per hour (9 am to 1 pm & 3 to
6 pm). Shruti Communication, 31st January Rd, ,
under the Hotel Venite, has
internet access.
Some
places for the Internet are Cozy Nook Travels
(242-5960), 18th Jund Rd; and Log In, 2nd floor Hotel
Check Inn is open 24-hour.
Visa Extensions &
Tax Clearance
The Foreigners’ Registration Office is at Police
headquarters. They may be able to extend a visa. Open Mon to Fri. 9:30
am to 1 pm.
You can get a tax clearance certificate at the Taxation Department
in the Shanta Building at the end of Emidio Gracia Rd.
Medical
Goa Medical College, ( 222-3010, 222-3658), west end
of Avda Dom Joäo Castro, is the biggest hospital in Panaji. Ambulance
number: 46300.
Dr Bale is a good bone specialist. His 24-hour clinic
is in Porvorim on NH17, on the road to Mapusa, 4km north of Panaji.
Book
Shops and Libraries
There are good bookshops in the Hotel Mandovi and the
Hotel Fidalgo.
The Alliance Francaise de Goa (222-3274), in Altinho,
shows classic French films (usually at 6 pm on Thurs). Open Mon to Fri,
9:30 am to 1 pm and 3.30 to 6.30 pm. Three months temporary membership
is Rs 150.
Pauline
Book Centre (223-1158), Rani Pramila Arcade, down a lne just
off 18th June Rd, sells spiritual books.
Broadway
Book Centre, Dr P Shirgaonkar Rd, off MG Rd, has a good selection
of books on Goa.
Travel
Agencies
MGM International Travels, Mamai Camotin Building (also
branches in Calangute and Anjuna); Aero Mundial (222-3773),
in the Hotel Mandovi; and Georgeson & Georgeson),
1st floor, opposite the GPO. Menezes Air Travel (222-2214), rua de Ourem.
Citizen World Travels (222-7087), F/4 Gomes Building,
2nd Fl, C Albuquerque Rd, is efficient. Thomas Cook,
8 Alcon Chambers, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, is very efficient.
Melo Travels (0832 227-9490) in Panaji, Goa, is a helpful
place, which can help you to get discounts on hotels. They have a web
site.
Music and Dance
At Kala Academy there are regular performances of classical Indian music
and dance. The school is in Campal, at the far west end of Dayanand
Bandodkar Rd.
Getting
Around
An auto-rickshaw should cost no more than Rs 25 for most places in town.
You can rent a bicycle from Daud M Agar Bike Shop in front of the National
Theatre, or at the bike shop located up the road, opposite the GPO.
You
can arrange a car with a driver from GTDC (Goa Tourism)
(222-4132:
Eamil: gtdc@goa.nic.in: Web Site:
http://www.goa-tourism.com) ,
the ITDC Tourist Office, or from Hertz, opposite Dom
Bosco School, Market Area. Rates are around Rs 400 to Rs 600 for four
hours, and Rs 600 to Rs 1000 for eight hours, depending on the distance.
You can rent a self-drive car from Hertz and Budget
Rent-a-Car (221-7755), c/o Sai Service (217-063), Mapusa Rd,
Porvorim, on the north side of Mandovi bridge. Sai Service
is recommended.
Typical
taxi fares from Panaji are: Calangute Rs 250; Colva Rs 500, and Dabolim
Airport Rs 500.
Fontainhas
This is the oldest and most interesting area in Panaji. There are blocks
of narrow streets and old Portuguese houses with over hanging balconies.
Many of buildings still have their traditional coat of green, blue,
and pale yellow paint. In the past, the Portuguese had a rule that all
buildings had to have a fresh coat of paint after the monsoon. Churches
had to be white.
Chapel
of St Sebastian
The chapel was built in the 1880s and contains a lifelike crucifix.
It formerly hung in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa. Christ
has his eyes open, which is unusual for a crucifix. It is said that
this was to inspire fear in those who were being interrogated by the
Inquisitors. It is located at the south end of the Fontainhas area.
There is a festival here in mid-November to celebrate the patron saint’s
day.
The
Secretariat (Idalcao Palace)
This was the summer palace of the Muslim ruler of Goa, Adil Shah. This
is the oldest building in Panaji. It has a European look with its wooden
verandah and carved stone coat of arms. It was rebuilt by the Portuguese
in 1615 and was used by the territory’s governors during overnight
visits on their way to and from Europe. When Goa became the capital,
this building became the viceroy’s residence. Now it is used as
the Goan State Legislature.
A
hundred metres west, there is a statue of Abbé Farrin (1755-1819)
with his hands held over an entranced, reclining woman. He was a Goan
priest who moved to France and became a famous hypnotist.
Church of Our Lady
of the Immaculate Conception
This beautiful church, east of Church Square (also known as Municipal
Garden), was built in 1541. It is located on an elevated terrace, approached
by climbing a flight of steps. It has a beautiful gilded main altar.
The huge bell in the main tower used to be in Old Goa in the ruined
Augustianian monastery. This is the most photogenic place in Panaji.
Church Square is a park in the middle of Panaji.
A
few blocks south of Church Square is the Hindu Mahalakshmi Temple. Also
near the square is the domeless Jama Masjid Mosque (mid-18th century).
The
Goa State Museum
This museum (245-8006, http://www.goamuseum.nic.in)
contains ancient deities, temple sculptures, puja (worship) paraphernalia,
and sati stones. There are also old Jain bronze sculptures, found by
Customs officers when they were being smuggled out of the country. In
the Western art section there is a collection of photos taken around
the beginning of the century. There are also some Christian exhibits
and antique furniture.
The museum is on the first floor of an office building near Caculo Island
intersection and the Kadamba bus stand. Admission: free. Hours: Mon
9:30 am to 5:30 pm
Where to Stay
During the festival of St Francis in early December and during the high
season of mid-December to mid-January, accommodations can be tight and
prices doubled. The best budget places are in Fontainhas, near the Ourem
River. There are no accommodations in Old Goa.
Where
to Stay—Lower
Youth Hostel (225-433), in Miramar, 3km west of Panaji,
is surrounded by a grove of trees. It has dorm beds for Rs 50 (Rs 60
for non-members). It is out of the way.
In the old part of town there are several good, inexpensive places.
|
Elite Boarding & Lodging has clean rooms with bath
for Rs 150/200; triples Rs 250. They offer about a fifty-percent discount
during the off-season, especially if you are planning an extended stay.
Udipi Boarding and Lodging (222-8047), Sao Tame, has
rooms with common bath for Rs 125 and Rs 200 with bath.
The popular Mandovi Pearl Guest House (222-3928), José
Falcão Rd, near the river, has only five rooms. Rooms are Rs
350 for a single, Rs 650 for a double, and Rs 700 for a triple. It is
well-managed and is often full. Doubles are Rs 300 off-season.
Republica Hotel (222-4630), José Falcão
Rd, in back of the Secretariat, is an older place with basic rooms for
Rs 350/400. There are good views of the Mandovi River from the verandah.
It is a good value and is popular with travelers.
GTDC Patto Tourist Home (227-972), between the bus
station and the center of town, is a popular place with rooms for Rs
350 (Rs 250 low season) and dorm beds for Rs 75 (Rs 50 during low season).
Alfonso Guest House (222-2359), St Sebastian Chapel
Square, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 8.00/900. It is a nice place
in a family house. Good discounts during the off-season (Rs 400 for
a room)..
The well-managed, modern Orav’s Guest House (226-128),
31 January Rd, has clean, comfortable double rooms with bath for Rs
350/450. The front rooms have small balconies. Checkout time 9 am.
Park Lane Lodge (222-7154: Email: pklaldg@goatelecom.com),
near St Sebastian Chapel, is an old Portuguese house with a selection
of clean rooms ranging from Rs 500 to Rs 600. Rooms go down to Rs 300
during the off-season. It has a friendly atmosphere and is recommended.
Hotel Embassy (222-6019) has good, clean double rooms
with hot water for Rs 750.
The modern, well-managed Hotel Neptune (222-7747),
Malaca Rd, in the new section of town, has double rooms with hot water
for Rs 650 to Rs 900.
Hotel Arcadia (222-6727), MG Rd, has a good atmosphere.
Where to Stay—Middle
The popular Tourist Hotel (222-7103), near the river
and the Secretariat, has large, pleasant, clean double rooms for Rs
750, triple rooms for 100, and A/C rooms for Rs 950. There is a Rs 50
discount during the off-season. The front rooms have balconies with
a view of the river, but can be noisy, so the back rooms are better.
It has a bookshop and some rooms have a TV. There is a good restaurant
on the terrace and a tourist counter in the lobby. It is often full.
The modern, well-managed Garden View (222-7844), across
from Municipal Gardens, has large clean rooms for Rs 900 and Rs 1000
with A/C. The more expensive rooms overlook the park.
The popular Keni’s Hotel (222-4581 fax 223-5227),
18 June Rd, has good rooms for Rs 800/950 and Rs 1-50 for an A/C room
with color TV and hot water. It has a garden.
Hotel Samrat, Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has clean rooms for
Rs 800/950. It also has triple/four-bed rooms for Rs 1000/1100. It is
a good place. They exchange travelers cheques and accept most major
credit cards. It has a good Chinese restaurant.
Mayfair Hotel (222-3317; fax 223-0068; Email: mayfair@goatelecom.com),
Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, is a good place with rooms with a bath for Rs 650/750
and Rs 850 for an A/C room. During the off-season, they charge Rs 350/450.
It has a good restaurant.
Hotel Bareton (222-6405) has rooms with bath and hot
water for Rs 700/850. Checkout time is 8:30 am.
Hotel Summit, Menezes Braganza Rd, is a good place
with rooms with A/C and 24-hour hot water for Rs 1250/1600 during the
high season and Rs 1050/1250 the rest of the year. Breakfast included.
The modern Hotel Aroma (222-8308; fax 222-4330), Cunha
Rivara Rd, opposite the Municipal Garden, has clean rooms with common
bath for Rs 700/750 and double rooms with bath ranging from Rs 900 to
Rs 1100. It has a good tandoori restaurant on the first floor.
Hotel Palácio de Goa (222-4289), Gama Pinto
Rd, has good rooms for Rs 1100/1200 and A/C rooms are Rs 1300/1400.
Some rooms have balconies. It has a pure vegetarian restaurant. Some
rooms are not so nice. Checkout time 8 am.
Hotel Rajdhani (222-5362), Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd, is
a good place with clean rooms for Rs 1200 and Rs 1400 for an A/C room.
It has a good vegetarian restaurant downstairs.
The well-managed Panjim Inn (222-6523; fax 222-8136:
Web Site http://www.panjiminn.com),
E212, 31 Janeiro Rd, Fontainhas, has rooms with bath and hot water for
Rs 900/1300. After the Christmas rush, the price goes down. It is in
a beautiful, 17th century Portuguese building with antique furniture,
so many of the rooms are different and you should ask to see a selection.
Some rooms have balconies. It is run by a Goan man and Tibetan woman.
It has a large first-floor verandah and a nice garden. A friendly, recommended
place.
Where to Stay—High
The modern A/C Hotel Fidalgo (222-5291; fax 222-5061),
18 June Rd, has a pool and nice rooms with cable TV for Rs 1700/1900.
During the off-season, rooms go for Rs 1400, so it is a good value.
It has a health club, exchange facilities, and a travel agency.
The comfortable Hotel Nova Goa (222-6231. 227-7226;
fax 222-4958; Web Site: http://www.hotelnovagoa.com),
Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd, has a swimming pool. It has clean rooms with bathtubs
for Rs 1400/2000 and suites for Rs 3000. Breakfast is included and it
has a pool. It is a good-valued, modern place with an A/C restaurant.
During the Christmas season, a standard room is Rs 2600.
The modern Golden Goa (222-6231; fax 222-4958), Dr
Atmaram Borkar Rd, has clean A/C rooms with bath for Rs 1700/1900. It
shares the pool with the Hotel Nova Goa.
Hotel Mandovi (222-4405, 222-6270; fax 222-5451; Email:
mandovi@goatelecom.com), Dr D Bandodkar Marg, next to the river, has
rooms with a good view for Rs 1600/2300 and Rs 1400/2000 for rooms without
a view. The rooms overlooking the river have balconies. It is a grand
old 1930s Portuguese building, and is the best place in town. It has
a pool and travel agency, and a good restaurant on the first floor.
Recommended.
Where to Eat
The popular Vihar, 32 Janeiro Rd, is a very good South
Indian vegetarian restaurant, serving dosas, puris, wadas, and thalis
for Rs 30.
Satkar, 18 June Rd, is a good, clean South Indian vegetarian
place. The same people manage this place and Vihar, and the service
at both is quick and efficient.
Rangoli, Ormuz Rd, near Cine National, has good vegetarian
Gujarati thalis for Rs 40. Open 11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 10 pm.
Kamat, north side of Municipal Garden, has cheap thali
meals and South Indian snacks.
The popular Venite (222-5537), 31 Janeiro Rd, has good
Indian and Western food, including macaroni and cheese (Rs 70). It also
has good breakfasts. There are small balconies overlooking the street,
and the place has a good atmosphere. Closed on Sundays.
Sher-e-Punjab,
Hotel Aroma, is a high-class place serving Punjabi and tandoori food.
Main dishes cost Rs 40-75. Open noon to 3:30 pm and 6:30 to 11:30 pm.
Goenchin (222-7614), near Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good
Chinese food. Main dishes cost Rs 50-75. Popular. Open 12:30 to 3 pm
and 7:30 to 11 pm.
Delhi Durbar, MG Rd, near the Hotel Mandovi, is a high-class
restaurant serving North Indian food. Open 11 am to 3 pm and 6:30 to
11 pm.
Eurasia, Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good pizzas and Italian
food.
Tandoor, in the Aroma Hotel, has good food at a reasonable
price.
A Pastelaria, Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good baked goods,
cakes, and chocolates. There is also a Pastelaria in the Hotel Mandovi.
Casa Juka, opposite the Secretariat, has fresh juice,
lassis, and snacks. It is an interesting place to sit.
Riorico, in the Hotel Mandovi, has good Goan food.
Chunghwa, in the Hotel Samrat, is a good Chinese place
managed by a Chinese family.
Travel
Air Flights land at Dabolim airport, 29km south
of Panaji, near Vasco da Gama. A prepaid taxi to Panaji cost Rs 400
(45 min), and can be booked at the prepaid taxi stand. Kadamba buses
meet domestic flights and drop passengers at the main bus stand and
the Indian Airlines office on Dr D Bandodkar Marg in the northwest part
of town. Many of the higher-class hotels have free pickup services.
Some may take non-guests for about Rs 50.
Domestic airline offices in Panaji:
Indian Airlines (222-3831, 222-4081), Dempo Building, Dr D
Bandokar Rd.
Jet (243-8721, airport 254-0029), Shop 7-9, Sesa Ghor, Patto
Plaza, near Goa Tourism and GTDC Panjim Residency.
Sahara (223-0237, 223-7346, airport 251-0043) General Bernado
Guedes Rd.
International airlines offices:
Air India (243-1100, 222-4081), next to the Hotel Fidalgo,
18 June Rd.
British Airways (222-4573, 222-4338; fax 222-4338), 2 Excelsior
Chambers, MG Rd.
KLM (222-6678), 18 June Rd, (also PIA).
See
the “Travel To and From Goa” section for a list of flights.
Train
There is no railway station in Panaji. There are railway stations in
Mapusa, Old Goa, Vasco da Gama, and Margao. There is a railway booking
office on the first floor of Kadamba bus terminal.
Bus
The Kadamba bus terminal (222-5401) is half a km east
of the center of town. You can book Kadamba bus tickets 30 days in advance
(9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm).
Many private companies operate deluxe, super-deluxe, and super-deluxe
video buses to Mumbai, Pune (12 hr), Bangalore (14 hr), and Mangalore.
The buses usually depart in the evenings. The video buses are extremely
loud and should be avoided unless you are deaf. Unique International
Travels operates A/C buses to Mumbai, Bangalore, and Pune.
Paulo Tours & Travel (243-8531, http://www.paulotravels.com)
The bus ride to Mumbai takes between 14 and 18 hours. A luxury bus is
Rs 400 and an A/C luxury bus is Rs 600. Private companies usually have
better buses (which cost more). This is important because the road can
be rough.
There is one direct bus from Panaji to Gokarna. To get to Gokarna (6
hr), you can catch the bus to Mangalore and get down at Ankola. Then
take a private mini-van from there. There are buses to Mysore (16 hr),
a Kadamba luxury bus to Mangalore (11 hr), and buses to Bangalore and
Pune. There are five buses daily to Karwar, which is the first major
town over the Karnataka border.
To get to Hampi from Goa there is one direct bus to Hospet (the neighboring
town), departing at 10:30 am (11 hr). There are also private overnight
luxury buses to Hampi, which can be booked through a travel agency.
You can also catch a bus to Hubli (7 am, 7 hr) and from there get the
train or one of the frequent buses (4 hr) to Hospet. Hubli is on the
main Mumbai to Bangalore line. From Hubli you can catch a train to Gadag
for both Badami and Bijapur.
You can get a bus to Londa (where you get a train to Delhi and Mysore)
and Miraj (which is on the main line to Mumbai).
Boat
The catamaran boat that used to go between Mumbai to
Panaji does not operate any more. It may operate in the future, but
it seems doubtful.
Taxi A taxi from Panaji to Calangute is Rs 150, to Anjuna or Vagator
Rs 200, and to Colva Rs 300.
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