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Chapora
is a friendly village, 10km west of Mapusa, just half a km north of
Vagator. It is located on the south bank of the Chapora River. It is
a pleasant place to stay and is an easy place to meet fellow travelers.
If you sit down at a fruit juice stand or restaurant, it is quite normal
to strike up a conversation with whoever else is there as if you have
known them for years. It is the kind of place you think you will visit
for a few days and which you wind up staying for a few months.
Only
basic accommodations are available in Chapora, and there are not many
places. Most travelers stay in rented houses around the village. There
are a few good vegetable and fruit stands and a good general store.
If you are staying in Vagator for awhile, you will almost certainly
have to come here for supplies.
Information
Soniya Tours and Travels (227-3344), next to the bus
stand, books air, train, bus, and internet access. They are trustworthy,
but may try to overcharge you, so be careful. They also change money
quickly at a reasonable rate. Noble Nest Travels (274-335),
at the other end of the village, seem to offer cheaper rates for plane
and bus tickets, and the people running it seem trustworthy. They change
money at a good rate.
There
is no beach in Chapora, but the beaches in Vagator are just a half-km
south. To get to the beach, you can take a motorcycle taxi for Rs 20.
You can also walk to the west end of town and up the hill to the main
road in Vagator. You then take a right to get to the beach. It is a
pleasant walk.
Across
the river, north of Chapora, is the secluded Morjim Beach,
which goes for kilometres. If you go to the west end of the village
and make a right to the fishing boat area, you can hire a boat for Rs
30 to take you to Morjim.
There is Internet
facilities at Soniya Travels.
Portuguese
Fort
There is a Portuguese fort in Chapora which was built in 1617 over a
previous Muslim structure. It was deserted in the 19th century and there
is nothing left of the fort except the walls. It is a fairly hard climb
xe "Chapora" uphill to see the fort, but the views from the
fort’s walls are fantastic.
Where to Stay
Most people stay in rented private houses in the area. You can ask at
the restaurants, such as Green Shadow or the Baba Restaurant, about
available rooms in people’s homes. House rents start at Rs 2,000
and go up to more than Rs 5,000 per month. If you want to rent a house
for just one month, expect to pay a high price. A nice house is more
pleasant than the basic hotels in Chapora.
If you plan to stay during the high season, it is best to first stay
in Calangute or Baga, then come here during the day to find a place
to stay. You may have to wait a few days for a vacancy. It can be difficult
to find a room in a guest house as many people live here on extended
stays.
Shertor Villa (227-4335) is a popular place with basic
rooms with common bath for Rs 200 and Rs 400 with bath. If you are staying
awhile, you can get a discount.
Baba Restaurant (227-3213), nearby, has basic rooms
with bath for Rs 300.
Helinda (227-4345) has rooms with common bath for Rs
250/300 and better rooms with bath for Rs 250/450. It has a restaurant.000000
Amora is a basic place where you can stay if you are
desperate.
Green Shadow Restaurant has three good double rooms
in the back for Rs 200.
Where to Eat
There are many small cafes in Chapora.
Sai Ganesh Cafe, near the bus stand, serves fresh juices.
Scarlet Cold Drinks, just east of the main street,
serves fruit juices and is more popular. They also serve good fruit
milkshakes, lassis, mueslli with curd, and ice cream.
The popular (even with the locals) Green Shadow has
good Indian, Chinese, and Western preparations. It is an outdoor place
set back from the main road.
Next door, the Helinda Restaurant, is also good.
At the other end of town, Noble Nest has good food.
The popular Welcome in the middle of the main street
has reasonably-priced Goan, Western, and vegetarian preparations. They
play techno and reggae music.
Preyanka serves Western, vegetarian, Indian, and Chinese
foods.
Travel
To get here from Panaji (30 min to Mapusa) you must first take a bus
to Mapusa (9km east, 20 min, every 15 min). The bus stop for the bus
to Mapusa is on the main road. To get here from Calangute or Baga, it
is best to take a taxi (Rs 125) or a motorcycle taxi (Rs 75) as there
is no direct bus. The fare to Anjuna should cost Rs 20 to Rs 30 by motorcycle
taxi during the day and a little more at night.
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